Multiple issues, need help diagnosing 4.7 V8 (1 Viewer)

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@gthoman only thing left to do is fire it up. At this point I'm starting to wonder if either you or your compression tester are inaccurate. It seems you've suddenly lost the compression you did have on the number 3 cylinder. Obviously this is a very unusual situation your into right here. A properly performed leak down test will tell you what's really going on and then you can make an informed decision.
 
Any updates?
 
Sorry guys, been traveling and haven't had too much time to play with this "project". After checking AGAIN, it seemed the timing was still off by a tooth, so realigned and the engine started and ran without needing my foot on the gas, since fan/drive belt/no antifreeze I only let it run for about a minute or two. It didn't sound terrible, but had a little ticking/knocking? Put it back together and now back at square one....won't start? So, not sure if it jumped timing again, something else is wrong now? But at least I know it will run and didn't sound too bad, just need to pull it apart again and see if the timing is still aligned or something else is going on......
 
Wow....perhaps something is going on when you're setting the timing. Did you advance and retard the cams per the FSM suggestion? You shut it off and now it won't start? Do you mean it cranks but doesn't start? Did you check fuses? you'll just need to verify spark and fuel, and go from there.
 
It does crank, but doesn't start....so will need to start from the beginning with a crank/no start diagnosis. I thought I had moved the cams per the FSM, but will make sure again this time and check for fuel/spark and the fuses. Thanks!!
 
From the pictures you posted earlier, it looks like you know what you're doing. I like to spin the motor by hand for a few complete rotations and re-verify the timing marks are exactly where they should be. I don't have the FSM in front of me, but it says to advance one cam and retard the other. I followed this and it worked for me.
 
Any updates?
 
Interesting. The FSM calls out to use the TDC marks and that's how I did my TB.
 
Sorry for such a late reply, but have had a crazy few months. But wanted to let everyone know how it ended.

So, as I mentioned above, got the car to start, then put everything back together and crank/no start condition. Pulled it apart and checked the timing again, and it still looked good.
I went out a few times and sometimes the car would start and run and others it would just crank but not start. Even when it started and ran it took some time before it turned over. I'm attaching a video on my google drive, the car didn't have any coolant, since I was waiting to make sure it would start over and over again, which it never did. But after I started one time and had the upper radiator hose off, I could actually see the exhaust fumes coming out hole. So now the choice of tear down the engine and replace gaskets etc, swap engine, or sell...but with 245K on the tranny and everything else, hard decision.
I think some people here have swapped, not sure about the tear down, but any advice would be appreciated. Definately not worth having someone else do it
smokeinengine.mp4

Thanks
Gene
 
Hey Gene...I feel for you sir. I re read your compression numbers and if you're certain the fumes you saw was exhaust smoke and not the wet cooling jackets heating up and burning off as water vapor, then you might be looking at an engine swap. Having done one in my garage mostly by myself, I can tell you it's not that bad of a job with a cherry picker and an engine stand. I sourced a 72K mile engine from Ebay for $2K shipped, and then I think there was another 2 or 3 hundred in miscellaneous nuts, bolts, gaskets, etc.
 
Forgive my newbiness, but are we thinking it's a head gasket issue or something more sinister? If it's a HG issue, why not simply replace them or are they not worth it in this engine?
 
Hi Ali, no worries about asking questions, that's why we are here. Technically, you are correct in that replacing both headgaskets is a less expensive route. But, at a minimum, I'd have the block and and the head surfaces checked for warpage. Assuming both are OK, you're looking at the cost of both headgaskets, the machine shop cost of dimensional checks, all the gaskets and nuts and such, plus the time. When someone can purchase a low mileage engine for about 600-700 more than the cost you'd have by going the headgasket route, it seems less fortuitous.
 
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Hey OP! What’d you end up doing with that bad boy? I’m about to tackle my 07 blown head gasket -similar initial issues, blew radiator on highway, now builds cumbustion in cooling system. But the difference is, mine starts up and purs like new.. matter fact, if I keep the coolant burp tank on the cap, it’ll idle for hours and bubble up cumbustion every 15 seconds without overheating lol

Anyway, wanted to see what route you went! Still have it?
 

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