yea sometimes the fan gets a bit sticky to remove. I have had good luck slowly wiggling it and avoid getting it cocked. Also be careful to not put so much force that it comes off and nails the radiator....
Multiple issues, need help diagnosing 4.7 V8 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gthoman
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alia176
SILVER Star
I've fallen into the habit of placing a cardboard in front of the radiators due to this issue. BAM and then you start cussing!!
- Thread starter
- #103
I thought the second time would be easier, but not so far. Needed to pick up a harmonic balancer puller since the first time it just slid off, but this time it was stuck on just like the fan. Between being out of town, dealing with two hurricanes this project is just crawling along, really glad this car isn't needed yet but hoping to have it back together over the weekend. Have the belt lined up, but having an issue slipping it on, go figure...don't remember how bad it was the first time, remember being tight, but will fight it again tonight(the tensioner is completely removed). Just wanted to send an update since everyone has been so helpful and to let you know I didn't give up....yet. 
sounds good. FYI the belt should not have any tension on it until the tensioner is installed. Mine was loose enough where it slipped off a few times. If you back those two 12mm bolts out more, you will have the slack you need unless you already got it done. Make sure you spin the motor clockwise a few revolutions by hand to ensure the timing marks all line up before you button it all back together.
- Thread starter
- #105
Thanks, do you mean the the bolts for the tensioner? I actually removed the bolts completely and removed the tensioner, still need to compress the pin back. Maybe part of the belt is stuck somewhere not allowing all the slack?? will try again tonight...
- Thread starter
- #106
Also, not sure if I posted this before, but this is the kit I used from RockAuto
CONTITECH PP298LK1 (Premium) Pro Series Plus
CONTITECH PP298LK1 (Premium) Pro Series Plus
alia176
SILVER Star
That kit has the cam seals from what it looks like. I attempted to change my cam seals and the amount of effort it took to replace them was too much given how they're bone dry so I opted to skip out on replacing the seals. The rocker cover needed to come off and I was like Meh.
I dont want to hijack thread, following along very interested, but on a scale of 1-10 how hard is a timing belt swap on these 2UZ engines. Our GX will need to be done in 2 years or so, and I'm contemplating getting a high mileage Sequoia additionally and hate the idea of paying $1200 - +, for a shop to do it if I can. (I'm no mechanic but swapped out CV shafts, and rack and pinion on my last 360k mile front wheel drive Lexus sedan...that was a @#$&*)
alia176
SILVER Star
I think it's a straightforward project, sort of like peeling an onion layer by layer. Between YouTube, FSM and the Mud resource, one can do this project with confidence, I think.
- Thread starter
- #111
OK, so I checked and rechecked and took pictures after spinning the crankshaft a few times and lining everything up and it looks to me like everything is correct, putting the link to the pictures below. But I'm still getting really low compression on 6 out of the 8 cylinders
cylinder1:160
cylinder2: 60
cylinder3: 70
cylinder4: 40
cylinder5: 80
cylinder6:70
cylinder7: 70
cylinder8: 150
TimingBelt - Google Drive
I'm assuming new engine is in the works....anyone have any suggestions..thoughts??
cylinder1:160
cylinder2: 60
cylinder3: 70
cylinder4: 40
cylinder5: 80
cylinder6:70
cylinder7: 70
cylinder8: 150
TimingBelt - Google Drive
I'm assuming new engine is in the works....anyone have any suggestions..thoughts??
- Thread starter
- #112
These results look like my earlier results even though now the timing marks seem to be lined up.
Anyone see anything off with the timing marks(pictures above on google drive)?
Any ideas on the low compression still, I know someone said this is a non-interference engine, but possibly bent valves?
The car has 250K, the transmission seemed fine before this happened, anyone think it might be worth putting in a junkyard engine?
Onefastrx7turbo, you said you replaced one of these? any notes...how bad was it?
Thanks again everyone....
Anyone see anything off with the timing marks(pictures above on google drive)?
Any ideas on the low compression still, I know someone said this is a non-interference engine, but possibly bent valves?
The car has 250K, the transmission seemed fine before this happened, anyone think it might be worth putting in a junkyard engine?
Onefastrx7turbo, you said you replaced one of these? any notes...how bad was it?
Thanks again everyone....
- Thread starter
- #114
Yes it is
If it blew a hose and overheated you may have bent valves. Have you done a leak down?
There is a great video on YouTube that a mechanic just put out with some very good techniques for troubleshooting your issues.
- Thread starter
- #117
Have not done a leak down test since I don't own one and apparently noone around here "rents" them.
Since the compression test seems to show the engine is toast, didn't think it was worth buying the test to tell me which part/s are toast.
I'm trying to decide at this time is it worth putting in another engine, especially if I do it myself, or just send it to the yard??
Since the compression test seems to show the engine is toast, didn't think it was worth buying the test to tell me which part/s are toast.
I'm trying to decide at this time is it worth putting in another engine, especially if I do it myself, or just send it to the yard??
Personally, I would take it ,by trailer, and have a leak down test performed. If it was truly overheated, it could be toast. If the timing belt is right, you should have better compression. My opinion, I would spend a little to verify the motor integrity prior to disposing of the GX.
If you really are going to dispose of the GX, I would think people here or over on the GXOR site would buy it "as is".
alia176
SILVER Star
Curious if the engine will start now that the timing is correct.
If the compression numbers are correct, it's unlikely the engine will run well if at all. I am still curious as to how you are losing so much compression in so many cylinders. As Dan stated, you might have burnt some valves, or if the engine got hot enough, perhaps you have cracked some cylinders/blown headgasket or a combination thereof. I doubt a leakdown test would do anything more at this point aside from pointing to the culprit, but it's safe to say the engine has suffered some sort of catastrophic failure.
I did recently swap my engine and I wouldn't classify it as "hard", definitely time consuming, but doable for a competent mechanic. I was able to buy a 74K mile engine with recent service + new secondary air pump for $2K shipped. It required another $600ish in miscellaneous gaskets, nuts/bolts, O rings, 02 sensors, etc.
I did recently swap my engine and I wouldn't classify it as "hard", definitely time consuming, but doable for a competent mechanic. I was able to buy a 74K mile engine with recent service + new secondary air pump for $2K shipped. It required another $600ish in miscellaneous gaskets, nuts/bolts, O rings, 02 sensors, etc.
