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I just installed new speakers and i still feel like the bass response is much lower than it should be. My subwoofer does not really work, possibly minimal output i cant even tell if its playing or not. Is the amp or something wired to only send bass to the subwoofer so it dosnet go to the front speakers?

Also, anybody with the CD, cassette, radio combo headunit from toyota, how in the world do you change he balance and the fade on the radio? When i turn the knobs all i get is diffrent equalizer settings
 
Pull the nobs out for the balance and fade adjustments.

You started attacking the problem from the wrong end. You need to improve the signal before you will get any better sound. Speakers can only put out what the amp gives it. IMO Keep the stock head unit, it looks clean, simple, has limited equalizer settings but it's adaquite, etc. but change the amp. The amp is located behind the passenger's dash speaker. It uses low-level inputs from the deck, so all you need to do is unpulg it and solder on some rca pulgs for an aftermarket amp. You will be amazed how much better it sounds, although the stock speakers can only take limited bass, but since you have new speakers they will sound great!

The stock rear bass drivers are defective and a pos. If you want real bass you need an aftermarket setup. A few here use basslinks, they are relatively small and easy to hook up.
 
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I believe the speakers get a full range signal, the stock dash speakers may have a crosover type thing embedded in them, but that's it, I think.
 
There are a total of 9 speakers in the LC:

4 tweeters - 2 on the dash, 2 in the very back - high range.
4 midrange - 1 per door - full range.
1 midbass driver - in the back next to the tailgate - low range.

As for the stock bass driver... I just replaced mine with a couple subs. (sorry, crappy phone pic)
10-08-06_1918.jpg
 
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http://www.crutchfield.com/S-C9lKF7tywal/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=168450&I=5753SIXTY1&search=3sixty

Or, the JL Cleansweep, or the not-out-yet Alpine unit.

Not *cheap* but worth it, they really pull the factory signal together and provide your amps with nice, balanced signal.

Your going to spend more for one of those than if you just replaced the deck with a middle of the road unit. Plus you could get features like sat. radio and ipod etc. The stock unit is just out of date. Replace it and bypass the factory amp and you will be good.
 
Your going to spend more for one of those than if you just replaced the deck with a middle of the road unit. Plus you could get features like sat. radio and ipod etc. The stock unit is just out of date. Replace it and bypass the factory amp and you will be good.

X2. Dump the factory unit, get an aftermarket head unit with a little power (Get something that puts out about '50 watts per channel') and bypass all of the stock wiring. You can leave it in place in case you ever want to return it to stock to sell it.

Drop-offs (or not the increase that one would expect) in bass response when changing from stock to aftermarket speakers can be explained as this: Those paper-cone, small magnet stock speakers are probably 2 to 3 times more efficient than better quality after market units.
Efficiency means nothing more than the volume (decibels) produced by a speaker with a constant input signal, that is measured at a set distance (decibels of output with 1W of power input measured at 1 meter distance) A lighter cone, smaller magnet speaker will almost always produce more output (sometimes up to 2 to 3 times louder depending on the replacement speaker's characteristics) because that cone moves easier than the materials used in higher quality, higher power handling speakers (more structually rigid cone material, larger magnets and voice-coils). Basically, it takes more power to move better speakers and the stock head unit simply doesn't produce enough power to fully utilize a better speaker's qualities.

A decent, low-investment combo of a system would be:
  • A 'high power' aftermarket head unit (these are not real clean or actual power, but 50W/Channel will usually satisfy)
  • Quality, Mid grade (infinity, Eclipse, JL, kicker), Front door coaxial or component speakers (use the stock rear door speakers for rear-fill)
  • A small sub and amp, or easier yet, a powered sub (Infinity's Bass-Link will probably give most cruiser guys all the bass they need).
Adiophiles may start throwing stones about that setup (...That sucks, I got $600 Focals running off of a Zapco amp...) , but unless you want to take the time and invest in sound deadening and quiet tires, that combo will satisfy most people.

My setup is:
Head unit: Alpine 9833- 50W channel ($350-crutchfield sale)
Front Speakers, 6.5 Infinity reference ($85 - new off of ebay)
Stock rear speaks, faded mostly to front
Sub: Infinity Perfect 12 Dual voice coil (100 - new off ebay)
Sub Amp: xtant 300W mono sub amp ($53 - refurb off ebay)

It sounds good and has enough bass to fill that big cabin, without rattling other peoples windows.
 
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Pull the nobs out for the balance and fade adjustments.

You started attacking the problem from the wrong end. You need to improve the signal before you will get any better sound. Speakers can only put out what the amp gives it.

Without saying you're wrong, I disagree. The first thing I did was replace the speakers and the difference was amazing. Putting the tweets in the door was a big help too. Tweets in the dash is just horrible.
 
As for the stock bass driver... I just replaced mine with a couple subs. (sorry, crappy phone pic)

Doesnt that sound like s***? 2 different size, different brand, and different sized boxed subs. If they are both being drivien off the same amp, please disconnect one and get yourself some sound quality back.
 
I guess the best thing about sound quality is it is certainly subjective and in the ear of the beholder.

If you are happy with your setup that is truly all that matters.

If you are looking for help, it has been offered.
 
Your prob could be that your factory speakers only need a little power to be loud. Therefore, you are not being able to turn the volume up high enough to get any sound from your subs without maxing out the gain on the amps & turning down the treble on the head unit.

I had a similar problem in another vehicle. I even had an aftermarket head unit. I had to install a device that would allow me to manually turn down the gain/volume on all factory speakers to balance with the aftermarket tweets and subs. Otherwise the door speakers would be blaring and the volume was at like 10. When it need to be about 25 to get good sound from the preamp outputs=subs and tweets.

Best solution: Buy a new head unit that allows you to seperatly turn up and down any preamp outputs, subwoofer gain to get your system balanced out.

Good Luck
 
Ya, i do have the knobs pulled out, but when i pull them out, or when they pop out, it still only changes the EQ. If i try and pull them out any harder then the knob caps just end up popping off, ile maybe try with pliers or something, unless that is not what your talking about.
 
Ya, i do have the knobs pulled out, but when i pull them out, or when they pop out, it still only changes the EQ. If i try and pull them out any harder then the knob caps just end up popping off, ile maybe try with pliers or something, unless that is not what your talking about.

dj radio rick i have that same problem, i can only change the eq not the fade.
 
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Doesnt that sound like s***? 2 different size, different brand, and different sized boxed subs. If they are both being drivien off the same amp, please disconnect one and get yourself some sound quality back.

It actually sounded pretty good. Each sub had its own amp, you can see them both in the pic.

I re-did the system last week though, now I just have the 10" MTX, powered by both amps. Sounds great. :D
 
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The first thing I did to my 80 was to put some infinity reference in the front doors. With the factory setup they sound great. Later the cd player died so a nice Alpine went in. If I had to do it again I would get a cheap Scion HU off ebay. (I just got one for my old cressida - $35, pioneer made, plays mp3, XM and ipod capable) Save yourself $200- $300 and get one. I will not go into the 12" infinity sub - oh yeah, 1200watts of bump running at 2ohm
 
The stock sound is actually set up pretty well you really don't need to replace any of the tweeters or mids the bass is just horrible. I left everything stock except for wiring a new amp to feed the custom enclosure subwoofer in th rear (where the stock one is) and then wiring another free air sub woofer in the console to that amp as well (The subs are bridged of course). I'm still able to control the bass output through the stock head unit and it sounds pretty awesome and without the need to change the headunit and all the speakers plus sat radio is lame and my i pod through the cass is perfect. (my ipod fits perfectly in the little pocket above the stereo:grinpimp: . It doesn't sound as great as full on subwoofers but it left me with all the same cargo space and some premium $2000 sound for about $700. Plus i don't listen to hip hop so i don't need big thumpin bass but my zepplin and rush sound just perfect!:cheers: :beer: Just my $0.02
 
It doesn't sound as great as full on subwoofers but it left me with all the same cargo space and some premium $2000 sound for about $700. Plus i don't listen to hip hop so i don't need big thumpin bass but my zepplin and rush sound just perfect!:cheers: :beer: Just my $0.02

I respect the fact that you have found an economical solution that you enjoy, but have you actually installed a $2000 system into any vehicle? I think that you would be surprised as to the difference in the quality of sound that $2000 could put into your cruiser as compared to stock.

The size of the magnets, the material used for the cones, and the basic design of the stock components leave a lot to be desired. Yeah, it's loud because it is efficient, but the quality of the sound is pretty poor.

Nevertheless, it all remains subjective and I'm glad your rushed with your Zep!

:cheers:

Jer
 
Do yourself a big favor and DON'T go listen to Rush's "Show Don't Tell" and/or "Big Money" on a $2000 system. And you definitely DO NOT want to hear what Geddy is actually playing on the bass in "Red Barchetta" through a well matched set of components and a nice tight sub. Be happy with that stock setup, and don't worry about all those subtle notes you never knew existed anyway.

All kidding aside, like I said in my earlier post, if you're happy with it, that is truly all that matters. I could only wish I was happy with it.
 
Ivan to be honest with you geddy's bass is tight:D and neils drums sound absolutly perfect:cool: . its geddy's vocals and alex lifeson's guitars that could use a little boost:doh: . What would you suggest with the highs if i were to maybe replace those tweeters and invest a little more? By the way geddys bass playing in red barchetta off the r30 tour is absolutely amazing especially 30 years later. Rush is ridiculous!!
 

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