Mobil 1 0w-30

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agaisin

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Anyone running Mobil 1 0w-30? Looks like most run 5w-30, some 0w-40 and other variants, but haven't seen much talk about 0w-30. However, from reading the Bobistheoilguy's overview of oil viscosity (Motor Oil 101 - By Dr. Haas), it seemed quite clear to me that if one had a choice b/w mineral and synthetic, synthetic is clearly a better product for the engine, and if one had a choice b/w 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30 then 0w-30 would clearly be best b/c at the engine operating temperature (100c), they all have the same viscosity (they're all 30 weight), and the difference is really only at startup where you would want the thinnest oil (0w).

I know there's a lot of religious (and some logical/scientific) debate on the topic. I'm assuming what bobistheoilguy says is correct and it seems logical to me. So based on the above assumptions why wouldn't everyone be running 0w-30?

I'm planning to switch to synthetic this week and bought 2 5qt jugs of 0w-30 mobil 1 ($23 each at Walmart). B/f I make the switch, I wanted to see what others think.

Thanks!
 
Bought my 2003 LC in May 2009 with 83,000 miles. First oil change, I switched to Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy. I change the oil/filter every 5,000 miles or six months. At 5,000 miles, the oil comes out almost as clean as it went in—the LC/LX is very easy on oil. I switched to Mobil 1 for the synthetic benefits, and chose 0W-30 for its advertised fuel economy. YMMV.
 
I am running M1 0W-30 for the last 50k miles and oil change every 7500-8000 miles, so far no problems :)
 
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Because of the way the standards are set an oil could meet the 0w-30, 5w-30 and 10w-30 standards at the same time.

Mobil1 0w-30 probably does. Mobil1 5w-30 may meet the 0w-30 standard but is packaged so as to match the automakers recommendations. Mobil says that there is a difference between them but it may not be much.

I run 0W-30 for my winter change. Runs great.
 
FWIW, the M1 0w30 is only ACEA-A1 rated (Chrysler,GM) while the M1 0w40 is ACEA-A3 (Benz,Porsche,BMW). I've used the M1 10w30 and wasn't happy, but am very happy w/ the M1 0w40 and M1 Delvac 5w40.
 
Jim_Chow said:
FWIW, the M1 0w30 is only ACEA-A1 rated (Chrysler,GM) while the M1 0w40 is ACEA-A3 (Benz,Porsche,BMW). I've used the M1 10w30 and wasn't happy, but am very happy w/ the M1 0w40 and M1 Delvac 5w40.
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Part of an ACEA-3 rating is a minimum viscosity requirement that moves it to the very high end of a 30 weight oil or a 40 weight.

The UZ engine was designed for the 30 weight so you have to weigh losing that "spec fit" to gain the benefit of the possibly more protective oil.

I believe the German made Castrol Syntech 0W-30 meets the ACEA-3 requirement if you really want to get both with no compromises.
 
I use the AMSOIL 5w-30 with no complaints...it meets
* API SM/CF, SL, SJ ...
* ILSAC GF-4, 3 ...
* ACEA A5/B5 A1/B1
* JASO VTW
* GM 4718M, 6094M
* Ford WSS M2C929-A
* Daimler Chrysler MS-6395N
* VW 503.00


The AMSOIL 0w-30 is as follow but have not tried it myself
• API SM/CF, SL, SJ …
• ILSAC GF-4, 3 …
• ACEA A5/B5-04
• GM 4718M, 6094M
• Ford WSS-M2C929-A
• Honda HTO-06
• Daimler Chrysler MS-6395N
• VW 503.00


Use it in all my vehicles...Indian Chief, wifes BMW, all my Land Cruisers, and daughters PT Cruiser....and have in all vehicles from Jeeps to Cummins for 20 years. NO issues.

I tend to like the 5w-30 best though....not burned a drop of oil and is very clean still.
 
Brock said:
I use the AMSOIL 5w-30 with no complaints...it meets
*

Use it in all my vehicles...Indian Chief, wifes BMW, all my Land Cruisers, and daughters PT Cruiser....and have in all vehicles from Jeeps to Cummins for 20 years. NO issues.

I tend to like the 5w-30 best though....not burned a drop of oil and is very clean still.
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You use in your Indian Chief, may i ask what year is your Chief?
 
It is a newer one...2002. If I had an older one I would use the straight 60w like my buddy does in his Triumph Bonnie.

I am first owner....35k miles...ran AMSOIL in it since first oil change in 2002.
 
Brock said:
It is a newer one...2002. If I had an older one I would use the straight 60w like my buddy does in his Triumph Bonnie.

I am first owner....35k miles...ran AMSOIL in it since first oil change in 2002.
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I've considered 0W-30 for millage improvement, but waiting to see how this works for others and verify the Mobil ATF mpg effect first (see below). I really don't think it would hurt to use 0W-30 but 0W-40 may be a little to high of a viscosity for year round use in Colorado or North U.S. climates. The old rule of thumb is the less spreed between number 10W-30 vs 0W-40 the truer the numbers but with modern refining the spreed is expanding.

I used Castrol 5W-30 for many years, changed to Mobil 1 5W-30 three years ago. The jury's still out on that change. Only did it to be consistent throughout (ATF, Gear lube and oil) and hear its a high crack 4 over Castrol 3.

A little off topic but I am using Amsoil grease w/Moly #1 in Axle and #2 in bearings and propeller shafts. The Mobil full synthetic ATF I'm using has a higher viscosity than the Dexron III, which I believe has cost me a lose of .7 MPG, but, gave me a smoother shift and quieter power steering pump.

Note: I use #1 on propeller shafts slides after cleaning to loosen them up then switch to #2, which worked well. Oh ya two cycle on my 1946 Indian Chief as i remember.
 
Ran Amsoil 0W30 fluid gold for 12k and filter changes every 4K during my 5 month Reno to Jackson stint. Always got decent mileage even with a RTT 90% of the time.

Just switched to Castrol Synth 5W30 for pure cost reasons- can't wait to be able to afford AmSoil again...
 
I decided to go with 5W-30 in the end. I bought the truck at 70k, changed the oil at 75k and it was not as clean as I hoped/expected, and now at 80k the oil still wasn't as clean as I expected (it was dark).
So with this oil change I flushed it with the synthetic until it came out clear to try and get it off to a clean slate. Moving forward I plan to go with 10k OCI, but I may change at 5k this first time to see if the oil is any cleaner.

Btw, do any of you guys use fumoto or similar drain plug valves? I've heard they can lead to major damage if they get hit since they stick out more than the typical drain plug (presumably just an off road concern). Other than that, they seem pretty convenient.
 
you might consider a filter change sooner than your 5k OCI, since synthetic should clean out the block some. although i am not sure if sludge etc is a real issue on these trucks. i changed my filter a few hundred miles after I switched to syn, just for piece of mind.

i have fumoto valve. yes they could cause major damage if they get hit. so dont get hit. seriously, in the position that the oil drain plug is, right behind/above a cross member, there is a VERY low probability of (mine) getting hit. mainly because I only drive class <4 trails. but even on class 4+ trails, I think other damage would occur before damage to the fumoto valve. it sticks about 2x out further than stock drain bolt. heres a couple pics

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...ive-personalized-unique-mods.html#post5846503
 
I would do it at 3k the first time you use it...as it does have a cleaning effect on sludge...then after that you should be good for longer intervals.
 
Reviving old thread here:

After 3k miles I just switched from the conventional 5w30 that the dealer put in to Mobil1 0w30 Synthetic Advanced Fuel economy used the standard fram filter (Hate having to use the filter removal tool to get those slipper vinyl filters off).

The conventional oil was a lot darker than I expected it to be after only 3k. But maybe I'd gotten used to the synthetic in my Honda.

I didn't know about synthetics cleansing properties. I was planning to change the oil again in 5000 miles. Should I do it at 3k again? Also, how much oil do you need to add if you change the filter but not the oil? .5qts?
 
If my engine blows up using 5w-30, I'll look into something else. In my experience, 5w-30 is easier to source than any other weight. Zero problems during the winter.
 
KlausVanWinkle said:
I didn't know about synthetics cleansing properties. I was planning to change the oil again in 5000 miles. Should I do it at 3k again?
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I would run it at least the OEM OCI of 7500 miles. The 100 is extremely easy on oil. Used oil analysis' on the board consistently show synthetics like Mobil1 and Amsoil in great shape at 10,000 or more miles. Synthetic oils have good cleaning properties. Those intended for longer OCIs like Mobil1 EP tend to have a bit more cleaning power. I doubt your 100 has anything that needs cleaned even if borderline neglected with cheap oil.

KlausVanWinkle said:
Also, how much oil do you need to add if you change the filter but not the oil? .5qts?
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Sounds about right to me. I'd start with 1/4 and check the oil later using the dipstick. It's easier to add then drain.
 
phsycle said:
If my engine blows up using 5w-30, I'll look into something else. In my experience, 5w-30 is easier to source than any other weight. Zero problems during the winter.
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Every wally world I've ever walked into has 5qt jugs of M1 0w-30 AFE for around $23. No trouble sourcing it AFAIC. It's great stuff.

Klaus, 1/2 quart is a little much for a filter swap as long as you do it quickly without losing too much oil. I agree that starting with 1/4 is probably about right. Add more as necessary.
 
I wonder what the sweet spot is between the M1 0w and 5w oils for actually making a difference in mpg's. I would guess that it has to be sub zero temps for the 0w to actually result in a fuel economy savings.

Pour points for the M1 oils:
0w-30= -50C
5w-30= -42C
5w-30 High Mileage= -39C

So it looks like all of these oils flow well in the 0 to 32F temp range.

I am running the high mileage stuff because it has a seal conditioner to keep my rubbers pliable. :grinpimp:
 
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