Mixed feelings about my new LC!

[txtortoise]

KDSS is known to cause lean if it's been parked in a wonky way like they do on those display rock piles or even if you have a strangely shaped parking spot at home. I don't think any "bleeding" is advised as the system will even itself out.

Over torquing to 125 is not advised...there is a reason for torque specs. I would expect the Land Cruiser to be more like 105 lb-ft.

My 80 and 100 show 97ft-lbs and I always have to be forceful with the tech and ask for hand torque, since they can't believe it's that low. On the 80, studs got sheared/damaged by the usual 125ft-lbs most shops use.

 

[jwestpro]

So what is it for the lc200 then? My land rover is 105

 

[gaijin]

So what is it for the lc200 then? My land rover is 105

18" OEM alloys spec is: Wheel nut torque 97 ft•lbf (131 N•m, 13.4 kgf•m)

So yes, 125 would be ... bad.

HTH

 

[Hothonda]

If a remedy to a problem seems anywhere near what I can do myself - I'll go for it (warranty or not).
Many dealer service managers & techs are generally one notch removed from worthless & w/turn one trip into 2 or three or more.

Passing dipstick school is not a requirement.

BTW, my LC still leans & I live with it....

 

[cc1999]

I think i mentioned spec was about a 100.
That said i have never had a problem with the 125 that i use. Since I have done mine by hand myself many times and owned multiple 200s, I am pretty confidant 125 is not going to cause a problem with the studs or the lug nuts. If you prefer the 97,100,105 whatever the factory spec torque is, by all means stick with it.

At 100 it just doesn't really feel tight to me. I was just was not comfortable with that. So i have stuck with my 125.
Everyone should use what they are comfortable with.

 

[Desert Nomad]

Jammed in tight and full power on an air gun didn't mess up the threads on the studs. On my beemer though setting the bolts on the threads and then tapping the trigger until it tightens is enough to chew through the wheel bolts

 

[Island1064]

Well I got my baby back, all good, just some hot spots on the front rotor, all taken care of and it's now smoooooooth as silk.

Also got the Yokohama Geolandar installed, much better than the stock Bridgestone.

 

[Island1064]

Braking can magnify the lug nut issue. I know the LCs can be a little particular about not being torqued evenly. Especially if your running a mild spacer like I do. I don't let dealers or anyone rotate my LCs wheels anymore, I get a vibration every time, I end up re doing it myself to fix it. Its happened about every time I let someone else mess with it. You could be right about the brakes, not sure about the rust, that normally is swept off first time you hit the brakes, not normally some thing that causes a vibration. More then likely if it did set for a long period of time in one spot, without moving, the tires could be the problem. I am still betting on lug torque issue though.

Did you get the Geolander ATs ?, I just replied to that post on your other thread?
Got that tire on both my LCs love that tire.

What pressure are you running the Yokohama's, the dealer set 42PSI as opposed to the 33 PSI for the stock tires, should I leave it at 42 or go to the recommended pressure?

 

[Desert Nomad]

What pressure are you running the Yokohama's, the dealer set 42PSI as opposed to the 33 PSI for the stock tires, should I leave it at 42 or go to the recommended pressure?

I think would depend on load range as well.
My coopers at 35psi (load range c)bulge and steering feels sloppy on road at 45 rides much firmer and planted.

 

[cc1999]

What pressure are you running the Yokohama's, the dealer set 42PSI as opposed to the 33 PSI for the stock tires, should I leave it at 42 or go to the recommended pressure?

They vary some from cold to hot and with temps outside. Mine were set to 33 (31-35 range w/temp) on one and set at 36 (34-38 range w/temp) on the other LC. I can't tell much difference one to the other. I would think 42 might make for a little harsher ride.

With fall and winter just around the corner, I would probably just drop them to 36psi. 33 might be a little low when the temps outside start dropping, and I would not want to have to go back and air them all back up first cold snap we get, because the TPMS warning light is on after the tires all dipped down into the high 20psi range tripping the light because its cold out.

The Geolander AT is a P-metric 4 ply same as the OEM tires, so I would expect the OEM recommended tire pressures to be somewhat acceptable.

For general tire knowledge for what its worth.

P-metric is a 4 ply, P = passenger vehicle .
A load range C is a 6 ply LT tire, LT=Lite truck
A load range D is a 8ply LT tire
A load range E is a 10 ply LT tire.

Most C can work with OEM pressures or slightly more if you want, it is my understanding that a load range C, that it does not increase load capacity. I generally see load range C on OEM off-road pkg trucks or as optional AT tires. probably most common on Fords F150s

most D generally needs more pressure. I am not positive on the Ds, I have not owned any in a while, but I am thinking those max out at 60 PSI, about the only D's I see used by OEMs are with half ton trucks with heavy duty payload options. Most 1/2 ton trucks come with Ps, but some models can be optioned with Ds. Generally seen as optional on GM 1500s

most E have to have more pressure. I believe max of E's have a max of 80psi not that you have to run 80 psi. E is generally used where high load capacity is expected 3/4 ton-1-ton trucks, heavy or extreme off-road use. Generally seen as std on all brands of HD trucks.

Sidewall of the tire generally states the max pressure.
I just would not want to run more then the MAX. The minimum pressure is generally up for debate. I have heard and read many different takes on what is the best pressure on a load range E. I am running 55-60 PSI on both my 3/4 ton RAM Diesel HDs.


Post up some pics of your rig with the new tires. Just curios what those tires look like on the 13-16 oem rims.

 

[gaijin]

What pressure are you running the Yokohama's, the dealer set 42PSI as opposed to the 33 PSI for the stock tires, should I leave it at 42 or go to the recommended pressure?

If you bought the 285/60-18 Yokohama's, the same size as the stock tires, then you should set them to the same pressure as recommended for the stock tires - 33psi F/R.

If you bought a different size, post it up and we'll go from there.

HTH

 

[jwestpro]

most E have to have more pressure. I believe max of E's have a max of 80psi not that you have to run 80 psi. E is generally used where high load capacity is expected 3/4 ton-1-ton trucks, heavy or extreme off-road use. Generally seen as std on all brands of HD trucks.

Sidewall of the tire generally states the max pressure.
I just would not want to run more then the MAX. The minimum pressure is generally up for debate. I have heard and read many different takes on what is the best pressure on a load range E. I am running 55-60 PSI on both my 3/4 ton RAM Diesel HDs.
.

As you probably know, the "max 80 psi" is for the max rated load and also depends on single vs dual.

I'm curious what your Ram weighs if you know roughly? My Land Rover generally weighs in at 7000-8200 depending on set-up and I run BFG AT KO, ko2 now, at 52-54 psi on the highway, a little more on the rear when towing, 40 on forest roads if going a long enough distance to make it worth airing down and up later, and 30-35 in true off road trail conditions where low range is needed.

These numbers are all on a276/65x18 or previously 265/65x18 all load range E. I set the Michelin LTX M/S 2 the same but obviously never use those on a real trail.

 

[jwestpro]

If you bought the 285/60-18 Yokohama's, the same size as the stock tires,....

I can't even understand why someone (on this forum) would spend $ on the stock tire size when the LC200 allows so many choices that fit so well from 32"-33" !

 

[Island1064]

They vary some from cold to hot and with temps outside. Mine were set to 33 (31-35 range w/temp) on one and set at 36 (34-38 range w/temp) on the other LC. I can't tell much difference one to the other. I would think 42 might make for a little harsher ride.

With fall and winter just around the corner, I would probably just drop them to 36psi. 33 might be a little low when the temps outside start dropping, and I would not want to have to go back and air them all back up first cold snap we get, because the TPMS warning light is on after the tires all dipped down into the high 20psi range tripping the light because its cold out.

The Geolander AT is a P-metric 4 ply same as the OEM tires, so I would expect the OEM recommended tire pressures to be somewhat acceptable.

For general tire knowledge for what its worth.

P-metric is a 4 ply, P = passenger vehicle .
A load range C is a 6 ply LT tire, LT=Lite truck
A load range D is a 8ply LT tire
A load range E is a 10 ply LT tire.

Most C can work with OEM pressures or slightly more if you want, it is my understanding that a load range C, that it does not increase load capacity. I generally see load range C on OEM off-road pkg trucks or as optional AT tires. probably most common on Fords F150s

most D generally needs more pressure. I am not positive on the Ds, I have not owned any in a while, but I am thinking those max out at 60 PSI, about the only D's I see used by OEMs are with half ton trucks with heavy duty payload options. Most 1/2 ton trucks come with Ps, but some models can be optioned with Ds. Generally seen as optional on GM 1500s

most E have to have more pressure. I believe max of E's have a max of 80psi not that you have to run 80 psi. E is generally used where high load capacity is expected 3/4 ton-1-ton trucks, heavy or extreme off-road use. Generally seen as std on all brands of HD trucks.

Sidewall of the tire generally states the max pressure.
I just would not want to run more then the MAX. The minimum pressure is generally up for debate. I have heard and read many different takes on what is the best pressure on a load range E. I am running 55-60 PSI on both my 3/4 ton RAM Diesel HDs.


Post up some pics of your rig with the new tires. Just curios what those tires look like on the 13-16 oem rims.

Thanks for the info, and I'll post some Picts.

 

[Island1064]

I can't even understand why someone (on this forum) would spend $ on the stock tire size when the LC200 allows so many choices that fit so well from 32"-33" !

I don't see the need at this point to have bigger tires, just need a more all weather and off road capacity than the crappy stock road oriented Firestone that came with the car. Don't want to change the way the car was designed or the final gearing of the car. I don't see myself going rock crawling any time. In a few years I might depending on the needs.

 

[bluecruiser]

As you probably know, the "max 80 psi" is for the max rated load and also depends on single vs dual.

at 52-54 psi on the highway, a little more on the rear when towing, 40 on forest roads if going a long enough distance to make it worth airing down and up later, and 30-35 in true off road trail conditions where low range is needed.

30-35 in true off road trail conditions? you need to find the youtube video where the guy compares different PSIs and how the tire footprint changes (or doesn't). 30-35 really provides no change/advantage...I'd just keep at 54 to save getting out of the truck.

 

[cc1999]

As you probably know, the "max 80 psi" is for the max rated load and also depends on single vs dual.

I'm curious what your Ram weighs if you know roughly? My Land Rover generally weighs in at 7000-8200 depending on set-up and I run BFG AT KO, ko2 now, at 52-54 psi on the highway, a little more on the rear when towing, 40 on forest roads if going a long enough distance to make it worth airing down and up later, and 30-35 in true off road trail conditions where low range is needed.

These numbers are all on a276/65x18 or previously 265/65x18 all load range E. I set the Michelin LTX M/S 2 the same but obviously never use those on a real trail.

Actually that is been quiet a topic of discussion over the past few years, on the RAM Cummins forums.
The RAM 2500s ship with a TPMS system 2014+ that is programmed with the optimum pressure being the max 80psi with a +/- % factor allowing for some temp swing.
The 2013 models had a button for running two different TPMS programs 1 for max load (optimal 80psi) and mode 2 for light load (optimal around 60). 2014 models no longer had that button just set for 80. It has just been recently that dealers finally have a way to alter the programming of the TPMS to allow for running a more realistic pressure for owners not using their trucks under max loads all the time.
I think that relates back to what the truck companies spec their payload ratings at, that probably triggers what pressures they preset the TPMS system to use.

 

[Desert Nomad]

This is the footprint of my cooper st maxx 255/75 R17

Can't wait to run them out and go back to a 285/70 R17

 

[jwestpro]

30-35 in true off road trail conditions? you need to find the youtube video where the guy compares different PSIs and how the tire footprint changes (or doesn't). 30-35 really provides no change/advantage...I'd just keep at 54 to save getting out of the truck.

Guess you didn't read my specifics. 8000 lbs is more than enough to change the footprint and it also depends on tire shape. A stock LC or LR3 is not even 6000 lbs. Mine sometimes has 500 lbs more per tire. Last outing it was more like 7400 lbs. There is no such thing as a set number.

 

[jwestpro]

I don't see the need at this point to have bigger tires, just need a more all weather and off road capacity than the crappy stock road oriented Firestone that came with the car. Don't want to change the way the car was designed or the final gearing of the car. I don't see myself going rock crawling any time. In a few years I might depending on the needs.

Definitely sounds sensible to me. My post was more in jest