I have been looking at wrecked fuso's on Copart and was wondering if the 4.9l has the AW450 behind it as well? or could you point me in a direction so I can find out.
Build Mitsubishi 4D34-3AT3B diesel swap into 94 FZJ80
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- #63
I have not been in here for a few months, I figured I would check on my thread. The FZJ is working ok pushing snow and towing my snowmobiles around. I am gearing up to get started on the project in march.
From my wiring diagrams the 4.9L does come with the AW450 but I have no idea what is necessary to get one to run. The 4.9 is definitely a much more powerful engine but I think the older version 4D34 is a much simpler swap.
For application data, I found it all using google and a sure fire way of finding out is to look at transmission filter data in catalogs.
I will be posting back here once I have some progress. I'm currently thinking of trying to find a spare A442F so I can swap out the cases on the trans going in, while I am still driving the truck. If anyone has a spare trans, preferably dead, and is in the NY state/new england area I am all ears...
From my wiring diagrams the 4.9L does come with the AW450 but I have no idea what is necessary to get one to run. The 4.9 is definitely a much more powerful engine but I think the older version 4D34 is a much simpler swap.
For application data, I found it all using google and a sure fire way of finding out is to look at transmission filter data in catalogs.
I will be posting back here once I have some progress. I'm currently thinking of trying to find a spare A442F so I can swap out the cases on the trans going in, while I am still driving the truck. If anyone has a spare trans, preferably dead, and is in the NY state/new england area I am all ears...
- Thread starter
- #65
Kind of lame update but:
The snow is melting and I am planning on tearing into the truck in two weeks time. I've started freshening up the engine, changing the crank seals and redoing some of the gaskets. So far it's good, no major issues noted. I dropped off the alternator for a rebuild (it looked like it needed help) and I'm in the process of cleaning up the timing cover with a sandblaster (it was rusty and crusty).
One problem I have run into is that Mitsubishi relies on the vehicle VIN for ordering parts. I never grabbed the vin from the truck I parted so I have had to borrow a vin from an identical truck I found for sale.
I'll snap some pics when I reinstall the timing cover and a few ancilliaries, and post some details of how I flipped the manifold to reposition the turbo. So far it's looking good!
The snow is melting and I am planning on tearing into the truck in two weeks time. I've started freshening up the engine, changing the crank seals and redoing some of the gaskets. So far it's good, no major issues noted. I dropped off the alternator for a rebuild (it looked like it needed help) and I'm in the process of cleaning up the timing cover with a sandblaster (it was rusty and crusty).
One problem I have run into is that Mitsubishi relies on the vehicle VIN for ordering parts. I never grabbed the vin from the truck I parted so I have had to borrow a vin from an identical truck I found for sale.
I'll snap some pics when I reinstall the timing cover and a few ancilliaries, and post some details of how I flipped the manifold to reposition the turbo. So far it's looking good!
- Thread starter
- #66
It begins!
On Sunday I pulled the 1FZ out with the help of a few friends. I was expecting it to take a lot longer than it did. The wiring was a snap, I just disconnected the harness on the inside of the truck where the ECU is and pulled it through ( did not not remove the air box and heater unit, I suspect I won't have to). The rest was nuts and bolts, and after a midday start, 5 hours later we had a bare engine bay.
I then spent a few hours pressure washing all the rustproofing goo and oil off the frame and underhood.
I then wanted to see how this new diesel would fit, so I pulled the A442F bellhousing off the transmission, and substituted a bellhousing from the 450-43LE:
It bolted straight on with no fuss whatsoever. I did have to machine some minor bosses and mounts off the backside of the bellhousing, which were for accessories on the Fuso and not required for this swap. This was pretty quick on a milling machine, you could also do this with a grinder too.
Then it was a test fit of the engine. I had to remove the glow plug soleoid (which is mounted on the starter and interferes with the firewall on the driver's footwell area) and the road draft tube (will reroute it later). The engine fit in pretty well straight away:
First impressions are that the engine is a very tight fit. The swap places the motor right back against the firewall, and because it's slightly larger and differently shaped than the 1FZ, there is not much room around the cylinder head to firewall. The exhaust manifold (which I flipped to reposition the turbo) is about an inch away at the closest point from the passenger side firewall, so I will have to build an aluminum heat deflector or simply modify the firewall a bit (I am trying to do this with no sheetmetal mods).
As far as oil pan clearance, there is a huge advantage to locating the engine as far back as possible. It puts the oil pan well away from the diff and tie rod is only under the leading edge of the oil pan sump, and can travel about 5 inches upwards before contacting. I will modify the pan (not much mods necessary) to give it full uptravel. Also, the oil filter is located directly above the front diff U joint and looks like it will clear the driveshaft as-is on full compression.
The motor mounts are also a snap, the factory mounts on the frame can be used , the engine-side mounts have to be redone and I plan on using the stock 1FZ rubber mounts. I will post some pics of the mounts once they are done, but so far I am pretty happy with it all.
I have also decided that I am going to leave the A442F in the truck and swap out the torque converter and valvebody to see if I can make everything work. I might swap out for the 450-43LE later on but I want to try the stock gearing as-is first ( and I am also curious as to if it will work, plus it is significantly less work not pulling the transmission!)
On Sunday I pulled the 1FZ out with the help of a few friends. I was expecting it to take a lot longer than it did. The wiring was a snap, I just disconnected the harness on the inside of the truck where the ECU is and pulled it through ( did not not remove the air box and heater unit, I suspect I won't have to). The rest was nuts and bolts, and after a midday start, 5 hours later we had a bare engine bay.
I then spent a few hours pressure washing all the rustproofing goo and oil off the frame and underhood.
I then wanted to see how this new diesel would fit, so I pulled the A442F bellhousing off the transmission, and substituted a bellhousing from the 450-43LE:
It bolted straight on with no fuss whatsoever. I did have to machine some minor bosses and mounts off the backside of the bellhousing, which were for accessories on the Fuso and not required for this swap. This was pretty quick on a milling machine, you could also do this with a grinder too.
Then it was a test fit of the engine. I had to remove the glow plug soleoid (which is mounted on the starter and interferes with the firewall on the driver's footwell area) and the road draft tube (will reroute it later). The engine fit in pretty well straight away:
First impressions are that the engine is a very tight fit. The swap places the motor right back against the firewall, and because it's slightly larger and differently shaped than the 1FZ, there is not much room around the cylinder head to firewall. The exhaust manifold (which I flipped to reposition the turbo) is about an inch away at the closest point from the passenger side firewall, so I will have to build an aluminum heat deflector or simply modify the firewall a bit (I am trying to do this with no sheetmetal mods).
As far as oil pan clearance, there is a huge advantage to locating the engine as far back as possible. It puts the oil pan well away from the diff and tie rod is only under the leading edge of the oil pan sump, and can travel about 5 inches upwards before contacting. I will modify the pan (not much mods necessary) to give it full uptravel. Also, the oil filter is located directly above the front diff U joint and looks like it will clear the driveshaft as-is on full compression.
The motor mounts are also a snap, the factory mounts on the frame can be used , the engine-side mounts have to be redone and I plan on using the stock 1FZ rubber mounts. I will post some pics of the mounts once they are done, but so far I am pretty happy with it all.
I have also decided that I am going to leave the A442F in the truck and swap out the torque converter and valvebody to see if I can make everything work. I might swap out for the 450-43LE later on but I want to try the stock gearing as-is first ( and I am also curious as to if it will work, plus it is significantly less work not pulling the transmission!)
- Thread starter
- #67
Here is a pic of the passenger side showing the orientation of the turbo with the flipped manifold. The oil feed line shown is one I made up. I just brazed the end fittings onto a piece of 1/4 line, just like the factory did.
I also rotated the upper thermostat cap. The cap was originally pointing towards the driver's side, I just removed it, machined off a bit of brackets and crap on the backside, and turned it and all the bolt holes lined up. I did this so that my new rad (which is a crossflow rad with end tanks) will work properly as the outlet at the top is on the pass side, and the bottom is on the driver's side. This will make hose routing a snap.
I also have been ordering some parts from my local Mitsubishi dealer, Central Truck in Ottawa. They are absolutely awesome, great service and open until 10PM with a knowledgeable parts guy. I ordered main and rod bearings which I am going to change as preventative maintenance, as well as the front crank seal, rear main and the exhaust gaskets.
I also rotated the upper thermostat cap. The cap was originally pointing towards the driver's side, I just removed it, machined off a bit of brackets and crap on the backside, and turned it and all the bolt holes lined up. I did this so that my new rad (which is a crossflow rad with end tanks) will work properly as the outlet at the top is on the pass side, and the bottom is on the driver's side. This will make hose routing a snap.
I also have been ordering some parts from my local Mitsubishi dealer, Central Truck in Ottawa. They are absolutely awesome, great service and open until 10PM with a knowledgeable parts guy. I ordered main and rod bearings which I am going to change as preventative maintenance, as well as the front crank seal, rear main and the exhaust gaskets.
Nice work 
I am crossing my fingers about the A442F. If it works this will cut the work involved in half.
Glad to see you getting back into it. This is awsome
Glad to see you getting back into it. This is awsome
Congratulations 
Looking excellent!. I think you're going to have a winner.
If you do replace the A442F valve body with the one from the Fuso AW450, you will most likely have to swap the TCM also. I'd be interested to see if they are even swappable. I'd try it first without swapping the valve bodies. Just swapping the bell housing and torque converter will get you bolted up.
Looking excellent!. I think you're going to have a winner.If you do replace the A442F valve body with the one from the Fuso AW450, you will most likely have to swap the TCM also. I'd be interested to see if they are even swappable. I'd try it first without swapping the valve bodies. Just swapping the bell housing and torque converter will get you bolted up.
- Thread starter
- #71
I was definitely going to swap the TCM as well, I don't think it would be possible to use the gas engine TCM. The plan is that the Fuso TCM and ECM are going to be located in the location of the original ECM and I will run whatever wires I require over to the original TCM location on the driver's side footwell. There are a few issues I am trying to figure out.
There appears to be two VSS sensors and signals, one for the TCM and one that runs the diff locks, speedo and other vehicle specific functions. They appear to be completely separate, but I'm not 100% sure yet. If they are separate this means I can use the factory VSS for the gauges and other This is really the only major hurdle for the trans wiring, everything else is fairly simple. The TCM requires basic signals, most of which come from the ECM or the transmission. The only info it really needs that is external is power/normal settings, OD button, brake light application, etc. It should be an easy retrofit, but in the diagram I have, the vehicle VSS seems to be connected to the Toyota TCM. Lots to think about.
There appears to be two VSS sensors and signals, one for the TCM and one that runs the diff locks, speedo and other vehicle specific functions. They appear to be completely separate, but I'm not 100% sure yet. If they are separate this means I can use the factory VSS for the gauges and other This is really the only major hurdle for the trans wiring, everything else is fairly simple. The TCM requires basic signals, most of which come from the ECM or the transmission. The only info it really needs that is external is power/normal settings, OD button, brake light application, etc. It should be an easy retrofit, but in the diagram I have, the vehicle VSS seems to be connected to the Toyota TCM. Lots to think about.
Don't know about the Fuso version but the two VSS's on the Isuzu AW450 are identical to those on a A442F. The Isuzu TCM (actually made by Aisin, same as the transmission), uses two VSS's, a primary and a secondary. The primary is the one that also drives the speedometer and is driven off the speedometer gear. It provides 4 pulses per revolution of the sensor (not output shaft). This sensor is located on the T-case on your LC and in the extension housing of the AW450. Both the AW450 and A442F have a secondary VSS located adjacent to the park gear (T-case adapter for the A442F and the extension housing for the AW450) This secondary sensor produces 18 pulses per revolution of the transmission output shaft. For sure on the Isuzu, the signal generated by the secondary sensor is used as a back up if the signal from the primary sensor is lost. I expect it works the same way on the A442F and the Fuso.
You may also have to deal with an engine speed sensor. I don't know how it is set up on the Fuso, but on the Isuzu there is a sensor on the IP that feeds RPM info to the TCM. You may have to sort this out, especially if you try to run the Fuso engine with the A442F TCM.
I know that the A442F has a TV cable to provide throttle position information to the A442F valve body. The Isuzu uses an electronic throttle position sensor instead. Don't know about the Fuso setup but I suspect it's like the Isuzu. If you run the A442F valve body, you will have to connect this cable to the IP throttle linkage. When I ran the A440F behind the Isuzu engine, I had to do the same and never did get it adjusted to where I was happy with it but then I really didn't try that hard.
You may also have to deal with an engine speed sensor. I don't know how it is set up on the Fuso, but on the Isuzu there is a sensor on the IP that feeds RPM info to the TCM. You may have to sort this out, especially if you try to run the Fuso engine with the A442F TCM.
I know that the A442F has a TV cable to provide throttle position information to the A442F valve body. The Isuzu uses an electronic throttle position sensor instead. Don't know about the Fuso setup but I suspect it's like the Isuzu. If you run the A442F valve body, you will have to connect this cable to the IP throttle linkage. When I ran the A440F behind the Isuzu engine, I had to do the same and never did get it adjusted to where I was happy with it but then I really didn't try that hard.
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- #73
Interesting! The AW450 in the Fuso has one VSS sensor and a speedo cable. There is only one VSS that is wired to the Fuso (Aisin) TCM. I suspect that your Isuzu application AW450 has the speedo cable drive replaced with a VSS.
I have been looking at wiring diagrams and it appears that both VSSs in the Land-Cruiser are totally separate, and It makes sense, as one is concerned with ground speed (speedometer, odometer, diff lock ecu) driven off the transfer case indicating rear driveshaft speed and the other with the RPM of the transmission output shaft (the 18 pulse per rev you were referring to). So that looks to be quite straightforward, but I will have to find a way to supply 5V to the Toyota VSS as I believe the feed comes from the Toyota TCM ( I see a connection for the VSS on my TCM wiring diagram that says “VSS out” and “VSS in” at the instrument cluster and locker control unit). In a few other swaps I have seen, some folks have left the original TCM for the purpose of running the speedometer and the locker control unit, and piggybacked on another for transmission control. I would prefer removing it entirely if it is not necessary. I should be able to find a source for a 5v feed to the VSS, perhaps from the other VSS feed from the TCM, or even from the accelerator pedal etc.
The Fuso/Aisin TCM also gets engine RPM information, but as the engine is fully electronic, the engine RPM sensor signal is sent from a reluctor wheel on the injection pump to the ECU, then presumably to the TCM. As the accelerator pedal is fully “fly by wire”, there is no way to hook up a TV cable. I am absolutely certain that using the A442F TCM would be impossible with this engine, so I am not even going there. The plan is to change out the valvebody, the torque converter and, if necessary, the mainshaft “vss” so that the Fuso/Aisin ECU is seeing and controlling an A442F disguised as an A450-43LE. I am just concerned that the TCM will be improperly programmed for the gear ratios of the transmission (seeing as 1st and 4th are very different fron the A442F to the 450-43LE) and may get very confused. At this stage, it is not that much more work to swap out the trans internals…
The motor mounts are progressing. I need to get some more plate steel but I was able to take all the measurements last night and it looks like it will be a pretty simple endeavour. I am hoping that the 1FZ engine mounts have enough energy absorption ability to smooth out the notchy 4 cylinder..
I have been looking at wiring diagrams and it appears that both VSSs in the Land-Cruiser are totally separate, and It makes sense, as one is concerned with ground speed (speedometer, odometer, diff lock ecu) driven off the transfer case indicating rear driveshaft speed and the other with the RPM of the transmission output shaft (the 18 pulse per rev you were referring to). So that looks to be quite straightforward, but I will have to find a way to supply 5V to the Toyota VSS as I believe the feed comes from the Toyota TCM ( I see a connection for the VSS on my TCM wiring diagram that says “VSS out” and “VSS in” at the instrument cluster and locker control unit). In a few other swaps I have seen, some folks have left the original TCM for the purpose of running the speedometer and the locker control unit, and piggybacked on another for transmission control. I would prefer removing it entirely if it is not necessary. I should be able to find a source for a 5v feed to the VSS, perhaps from the other VSS feed from the TCM, or even from the accelerator pedal etc.
The Fuso/Aisin TCM also gets engine RPM information, but as the engine is fully electronic, the engine RPM sensor signal is sent from a reluctor wheel on the injection pump to the ECU, then presumably to the TCM. As the accelerator pedal is fully “fly by wire”, there is no way to hook up a TV cable. I am absolutely certain that using the A442F TCM would be impossible with this engine, so I am not even going there. The plan is to change out the valvebody, the torque converter and, if necessary, the mainshaft “vss” so that the Fuso/Aisin ECU is seeing and controlling an A442F disguised as an A450-43LE. I am just concerned that the TCM will be improperly programmed for the gear ratios of the transmission (seeing as 1st and 4th are very different fron the A442F to the 450-43LE) and may get very confused. At this stage, it is not that much more work to swap out the trans internals…
The motor mounts are progressing. I need to get some more plate steel but I was able to take all the measurements last night and it looks like it will be a pretty simple endeavour. I am hoping that the 1FZ engine mounts have enough energy absorption ability to smooth out the notchy 4 cylinder..
- Thread starter
- #74
Another thing, Astr, can you post a picture of the TCM in your Isuzu and do you have a pinout diagram? I am wondering if they are the same basic unit (likely), and if there is a 5V oulet to your second VSS that I could make use of right off the TCM for my second vehicle VSS. I will take pics of mine this evening (some pics on the first page have the TCM in the background).
Post #122 here https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/268941-isuzu-4he1tc-into-fj62-7.html has the Isuzu TCM photos. I'll dig out the wiring diagram tomorrow.
You are absolutely right - the primary VSS screws into what would normally accept a speedometer cable.
Also check out Post #265 & 266 in the same thread. There are some photos related to the A442F.
You say that the 4D34 is fly-by-wire. Does it still have a conventional IP or is it a fuel rail system?
If you get a chance, post up pics of both your Fuso and A442F TCMs.
- Thread starter
- #76
The pump is similar to the one on your engine (in post 21). It's an inline pump with a conventional lift pump but it's entirely computer controlled:
Here are the Isuzu diagrams. I didn't look very close but it looks like the VSS that screws into speedometer drive runs off of 12 volts, not 5 volts. It also looks like it connects to the speedometer and then the speedometer provides the signal to the TCM.
If you want more detail, you can download the Isuzu manuals from the Bauchan site.
A word of caution - there are minor errors that I've encountered in the manuals with regard to signal names and pin numbers.
If you want more detail, you can download the Isuzu manuals from the Bauchan site.
A word of caution - there are minor errors that I've encountered in the manuals with regard to signal names and pin numbers.
- Thread starter
- #78
I've been busy with other shop projects but I managed to get some work in on the Cruiser. First, I finished the engine mounts. The mounts are very simple and use the stock FZJ80 rubber mounts and clamshells (one side clamshell is cut a bit) and are made out of 3/8 plate and some box section steel. The positioning of the engine was pretty crucial so I spent a lot of time on it:.
I was worried about the front axle coming up and contacting the engine. This is always a problem with swaps using larger "medium duty" engines like the 4BT and I wanted to try and retain as much uptravel as possible. So, in order to verify that there would be no interference, I pulled both front coil springs and slammed it onto the bumpstops:
Full bump:
Front drive shaft at full bump:
Engine to front diff:
Mount (pass side - still tacked for test fit)
Mount (driver's side)
Everything clears. The oil pan is roughly 1/8 inch away from the tie rod. I will give it a slight clearancing while I have it off (just a crease with a hammer). With the mounts all done, it was time to pull the engine again, and the trans:
Very greasy A442F:
After some steam cleaning:
I then separated the T case, and the trans is ready for dismantling. I am waiting on threaded rod for my improvised service tool as per Astr's thread.
I then moved on to the engine. I wanted to change the main bearings as preventative maintenance, as well as the rear main seal so I picked up new main and rod bearings and seal from the local dealer.
4D34T bottom end - Beefy!
Inch and a half wide rod bearing caps
Shot of oil sprayer nozzles and camshaft
New rear main, showing engine mounts:
The bearings were in pretty rough shape but the crank journal surfaces were perfect. I think it might be a case of the bearings having similar properties to the OEM toyota ones in the JDM diesels, which seem to disintegrate rapidly.
I also snapped some engine ECU and TCM photos. These are much larger than stock, I will probably fit them both into the glove box and simply use it as a "computer storage spot":
ECU:
TCU:
Tomorrow I will button up the bearing install, reinstall the pan, flip the engine over and get started on the A442F teardown.
I was worried about the front axle coming up and contacting the engine. This is always a problem with swaps using larger "medium duty" engines like the 4BT and I wanted to try and retain as much uptravel as possible. So, in order to verify that there would be no interference, I pulled both front coil springs and slammed it onto the bumpstops:
Full bump:
Front drive shaft at full bump:
Engine to front diff:
Mount (pass side - still tacked for test fit)
Mount (driver's side)
Everything clears. The oil pan is roughly 1/8 inch away from the tie rod. I will give it a slight clearancing while I have it off (just a crease with a hammer). With the mounts all done, it was time to pull the engine again, and the trans:
Very greasy A442F:
After some steam cleaning:
I then separated the T case, and the trans is ready for dismantling. I am waiting on threaded rod for my improvised service tool as per Astr's thread.
I then moved on to the engine. I wanted to change the main bearings as preventative maintenance, as well as the rear main seal so I picked up new main and rod bearings and seal from the local dealer.
4D34T bottom end - Beefy!
Inch and a half wide rod bearing caps
Shot of oil sprayer nozzles and camshaft
New rear main, showing engine mounts:
The bearings were in pretty rough shape but the crank journal surfaces were perfect. I think it might be a case of the bearings having similar properties to the OEM toyota ones in the JDM diesels, which seem to disintegrate rapidly.
I also snapped some engine ECU and TCM photos. These are much larger than stock, I will probably fit them both into the glove box and simply use it as a "computer storage spot":
ECU:
TCU:
Tomorrow I will button up the bearing install, reinstall the pan, flip the engine over and get started on the A442F teardown.
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- #79
Shows how huge the A442F is... Beer can for reference...
