Mini Tractors - lets see um (1 Viewer)

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Yeah, and now you have a way to dispose of your daughter's boyfriends and etc. :oops:

"It was an accident...a bazzare gardening accident!"
 
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I did loads of research on OTT, Orange Tractor Talk, and TBN, Tractor by Net forums before purchasing. The dealer tried to talk me out of getting hydraulics installed. He also discouraged me from getting the Quick Hitch. All of these were essential so I ignored him. The only tough part was forgoing the backhoe attachment. It was an extra $10k so I will rent an excavator when I'm ready for that level of work. The used prices were within a few thousand of brand new equipment and Kubota zero % financing allowed me to buy it using someone else's money. I got the implements with the tractor for the most part so they are financed at the same rate.
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Here is Kathy on delivery day. We used the quick attach forks to unload the box blade. It's a L2501 hydro-static drive. At purchase I got the Land Pride RCR1860 rotary cutter, BB1560 box blade, and 42" forks. Had the dealer install 2 rear remote hydraulic sets, one float detent. They also put on the W. R. Long 3rd function kit to operate this EA 55" root rake grapple.
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The grapple is my favorite attachment by far. The other attachment I did not get from the dealer was a rear finish mower, FDC1660. I read that lots of folks who have rear finish mowers wind up getting a zero turn and sell it. That's just what happened and I picked mine up for $600 on CL. Normally they are more expensive than the rotary cutters so about $2,400.
Lots of folks recommended the Piranha Bar for the front of the bucket. It saves the leading edge, makes it much easier to dig dirt, and helps mow down offending vegitation that is too big for the bush hog.
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I'll eventually get some of Ken's hooks for the bucket but with the grapple and forks I'm doing alright on material handling.
I had to wait a few months to receive my rear hydraulic from Brian at Fit Rite. His kit is top notch and he helped me decide what to get. He told me to get the Land Pride Quick Attach since all my implements are new and compatible. Even with the QH15 it is sometimes a struggle to swap implements as Godwin pointed out. With they rear hydraulics it is now much easier. Anyone who is ordering a tractor make sure that you get the hydraulics at time of purchase!
Here is the first step. Remove the adjustable side link and put it on the left side of the 3 point hitch in place of the static one.
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Replace the top link with the new cylinder.


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Here it is with all the plumbing. I got protective sleeve in 15' rolls on Amazon.
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This makes hooking up so much easier. It also allows me to have a cutter float with the contours of the land and not dig into the dirt killing the engine, nor rise in the air. That is with the side link in float. I can also swap the lines and float the top link for the box blade allowing me to adjust the amount of cut.
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This the the tilt of TnT or Top and tilt and below is the top which pulls the unit toward or away from the tractor.
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The QH15 has an optional float kit below that helps the mower as you go over humps and ditches. The side cylinder is in float so the whole unit really follows the contours. Before It was rigid and would scalp the pasture.
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You totally did it right. Having that rear top and tilt is going to make your grading jobs so much nicer and easier. Plus all the third functions for the front, game changer.

I wish I had the top and tilt, I have to repair a ranch road from the utility company driving on it this spring when it's wet. I don't have that top and tilt so I am going to rent a skip loader with that function to fix the ditch and rework the road. Never again will I own a tractor without that function, even if that means having two since I have a backhoe on one.

You did good...now get some seat time.
 
Not technically a mini tractor, but it does have attachments so close enough.

First mowing of the year. This thing is so much fun. I actually loved mowing before with a push mower, but this zero-turn is next level fun and about 100% required for my 4 acres of lots of trees mowing.

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My B2150 doing swap duty
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Not exactly compact, but you’d be surprised at how nimble the 6635 is. This one replaced the 5000 below it.
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I picked up a root grapple for the Massy. I absolutely love this thing!!! Cleared about half an acre this afternoon. Looking to clear, level as good as possible and stone for parking, between lower fence and the ravine that boarders the property.

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Lots of large vines, some 4-5" at the base, crazy

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I picked up a root grapple for the Massy. I absolutely love this thing!!! Cleared about half an acre this afternoon. Looking to clear, level as good as possible and stone for parking, between lower fence and the ravine that boarders the property.

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I need to get a grapple for mine; I have a ton of Juniper/Mountain Cedar trees and branches to move and burn.
 
I need to get a grapple for mine; I have a ton of Juniper/Mountain Cedar trees and branches to move and burn.
Grapples are the bomb. I got mine from EA, Everything Attachments. You would need a bigger one, mine is a 55" Wicked Root Rake Grapple.
 
Mine is the 66" Economy Root Grapple from Carolina Attachments. It is constructed with 3/8" plate. I asked about the heavy duty model and it is too heavy for a compact tractor, made with 1/2" plate and almost double the weight of the economy model.
 
Jim, Which hog to you have? I thought they all had either a shear pin or a slip clutch. I have heard that the slip clutches need to be adjusted. My hog, LP1860 has the clutch but is still fairly new and i have not adjusted it. I probably should as I don't know if the factory did it right. Here is adjustment suggestions from a post on OTT, Orange Tractor Talk. Great forum for Kubota owners.

A good way IMO to adjust a slip clutch is to first loosen the nuts then get on the tractor and at medium engine speed engage the PTO clutch, and observe the input shaft of the gearbox. What you want to see is the PTO shaft spin but the implement (for instance a rotary cutter) not spin as evidenced by the gearbox input shaft not spinning as the PTO spins.
Now that you've "slipped the clutch" which should be done occasionally, ***8230; now tighten the nuts on the clutch until they "just" begin to stiffen against the clutch-plate....and do the slip-process again. You should see the gearbox input shaft slowly engage and begin to "catch up" to the PTO shaft as you engage the PTO clutch.
Now, tighten those clutch nuts again.... the point you wish to meet is when you can quickly engage the PTO clutch, and the PTO shaft immediately spin...while the gearbox soon/quickly also matches the PTO shaft speed. I.E., the slip clutch should allow only a momentary slip if the PTO shaft is quickly engaged... but not immediately so.
Go mow in heavy grass and observe the gearbox input shaft and PTO shaft should run at the same speed without slipping. Tighten the nuts only to the point of ridding slippage.
Obviously, this is a slightly subjective observation, but he point is you want the clutch to pass along the power to the implement but only such that hitting an object does not impart unnecessary shock to the tractor PTO.

 

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