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- Jul 22, 2012
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- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Dude you are such a legend
Builds Mike's 1978 FJ40 Turbo Diesel Refit Project and Cross Country Road Trip! (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Godfather90
- Start date
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fyton2v
SILVER Star
Very interesting. We need so much more info about this.
So many interesting mods on your rig… Amazing work.
I've been (patiently) waiting for this post for a while now! I have gathered some parts to do the same thing but haven't built the evaporator box yet. I even had a friend do a laser scan of the passenger footwell to pull into fusion but I haven worked with that yet either. Its starting to get hot so maybe I'll get motivated soon!
It was awesome re-reading your thread. Love what you’ve done with it!
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Pictures are cool but you can’t understand the truck until you’re unable to keep up at 80 while he has 30* ac blasting and getting 26mpg…
Hey Mike I notice you have acoustic foam for a headliner. Did that make much of a difference? My headliner is new, but I am looking for something to cover the Noico mats I used on the inside of the hard top walls, wondering if acoustic foam panels might be a good option?
- Thread starter
- #507
Good afternoon,
Unfortunately I changed too many things at the same time to give you comprehensive answer. I want to say that it helps, but I am not sure the magnitude.
Mike
Anything that you think helped inside the cab would be appreciated. Great build!
- Thread starter
- #509
I have a little time right now so here are a few updates.
First I finished up the rear air shock/spring project I was dabbling with before I took my year abroad.
Here are some pictures showing the mounting and reinforcement:
The ping tank and the plumbing with he solenoids:
Its a tough spot to get decent photos.
Here's the 2 channel controller under the dash:
And the sketch:
I'm really happy with the results. The additional damping is a welcome addition as my rear end has always needed a bit more than the 9000XL's could cope with. I took the truck for a drive around the property with just the dampers tack welded in and the difference was immediate. When I crank the pressure to 110psig the rear end lifts 1.5-2". I have been running them around 60-90 psig on the street and around 40 on the trail. It levels the truck out nicely and really makes it ride much more like a modern truck.
I have it setup with a few solenoids that allow the use of a plenum or a "Ping" tank thats 1 gallon that references both sides and reduces the pressure rise across the displacement of the air bellows in position one, and in position two the switch isolates the two sides and reduces the system volume to that of the individual damper and the lines leading to the control panel.
Position one allows the pressure from the side being compressed to be sent to the opposite side and the 1 gallon reservoir. When I tested this with the tractor I was able to get a little over 1 inch of additional down travel with the air system charged to 60 psi versus deflated. I also had the truck off the ground and the air shocks being fairly linear with the reservoir were able to make both sides droop over an inch further with no load. When shocks are run through their entire travel there is a little under 10 psi of a delta in the system pressure. When one side is compressed to the bump stop and the opposite side to full droop the system pressure remains unchanged. I have trail tested it a few times now and when run in this position it is transparent with the exception of the additional damping.
Position two is what I have setup for street driving where the system is isolated from side to side and you can see the two needles within the gauge moving opposite of each other as intended. The swing is quite dramatic with a 15-20psi delta during a mild turn. What that means is the damper/bellows act like a stiff spring with a non-linear rate that rises quickly when compressed. The reduction in sway is very noticeable between the two switch positions.
We shall see how long these dampers hold up over time. They are OEM off a 2010 Yukon and fairly cheap so if they last a few years I wont mind changing them out.
Thanks for reading,
Mike
First I finished up the rear air shock/spring project I was dabbling with before I took my year abroad.
Here are some pictures showing the mounting and reinforcement:
The ping tank and the plumbing with he solenoids:
Its a tough spot to get decent photos.
Here's the 2 channel controller under the dash:
And the sketch:
I'm really happy with the results. The additional damping is a welcome addition as my rear end has always needed a bit more than the 9000XL's could cope with. I took the truck for a drive around the property with just the dampers tack welded in and the difference was immediate. When I crank the pressure to 110psig the rear end lifts 1.5-2". I have been running them around 60-90 psig on the street and around 40 on the trail. It levels the truck out nicely and really makes it ride much more like a modern truck.
I have it setup with a few solenoids that allow the use of a plenum or a "Ping" tank thats 1 gallon that references both sides and reduces the pressure rise across the displacement of the air bellows in position one, and in position two the switch isolates the two sides and reduces the system volume to that of the individual damper and the lines leading to the control panel.
Position one allows the pressure from the side being compressed to be sent to the opposite side and the 1 gallon reservoir. When I tested this with the tractor I was able to get a little over 1 inch of additional down travel with the air system charged to 60 psi versus deflated. I also had the truck off the ground and the air shocks being fairly linear with the reservoir were able to make both sides droop over an inch further with no load. When shocks are run through their entire travel there is a little under 10 psi of a delta in the system pressure. When one side is compressed to the bump stop and the opposite side to full droop the system pressure remains unchanged. I have trail tested it a few times now and when run in this position it is transparent with the exception of the additional damping.
Position two is what I have setup for street driving where the system is isolated from side to side and you can see the two needles within the gauge moving opposite of each other as intended. The swing is quite dramatic with a 15-20psi delta during a mild turn. What that means is the damper/bellows act like a stiff spring with a non-linear rate that rises quickly when compressed. The reduction in sway is very noticeable between the two switch positions.
We shall see how long these dampers hold up over time. They are OEM off a 2010 Yukon and fairly cheap so if they last a few years I wont mind changing them out.
Thanks for reading,
Mike
- Thread starter
- #510
I think stuffing the shifter boots with microfiber towels might have been the most dramatic haha
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 584
- Messages
- 16,463
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- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
dude, that is genius
- Thread starter
- #512
In other news I took the truck on a few trail rides up in the mountains:
My buddy came out from NY and got the trail treatment (it was his first time 4 wheeling):
I built a ducted fan using a brushless brake duct fan from on of the racecars:
It doesn't hang as low as it looks. Its just above the trac bar and built of some thin metal so if a rock grabs it it will just give up easily. This brushless fan is pretty insane, its got a motor from one of those brushless RC jets. Interestingly enough it seem just the duct its self has significantly reduced the transfer case temps. Its been between 110 and 120* here for a few weeks so ive been testing it quite a bit.
This heat sucks I'm heading out of town until the fall next week:
Lucky for me to have the AC
Mike
My buddy came out from NY and got the trail treatment (it was his first time 4 wheeling):
I built a ducted fan using a brushless brake duct fan from on of the racecars:
It doesn't hang as low as it looks. Its just above the trac bar and built of some thin metal so if a rock grabs it it will just give up easily. This brushless fan is pretty insane, its got a motor from one of those brushless RC jets. Interestingly enough it seem just the duct its self has significantly reduced the transfer case temps. Its been between 110 and 120* here for a few weeks so ive been testing it quite a bit.
This heat sucks I'm heading out of town until the fall next week:
Lucky for me to have the AC
Mike
- Thread starter
- #513
After the last trip I really hammered on the truck and wanted to go over everything. I found that both my front wheel bearings lost a little preload.
Before:
After:
I also went through and re-torqued the transfer case fasteners:
0.041" wire just because I can.
Another camping trip to my favorite spot:
Thanks,
Mike
Before:
After:
I also went through and re-torqued the transfer case fasteners:
0.041" wire just because I can.
Another camping trip to my favorite spot:
Thanks,
Mike
- Thread starter
- #514
Ok its been a few years now since I built the AC system in this thing but I will do my best to share the cliff notes on it.
It all started when the COVID lockdown left me with too much time on my hands so I started going down my list. AC was on the list. Not really for me because I like to suffer, but for my girlfriend at the time who would not give me what I wanted after riding in a hot Landcruiser all day.
Now back when I did this all my buddies were trying to tell me to make a kit and market it and yadda yadda. I don't think ill ever have the time and I don't really care. Really companies like vintage air or whatever should just do this because everyone would probably buy it for multiple reasons.
I knew exactly how I wanted to do it already for a few years, it all came down to which parts I should use. Rockauto to the rescue with their awesome diagrams in the parts descriptions.
First I got a condenser and make a shroud to fit some fans and mount under the back of the truck:
Why here?
-Because I drive this thing all over and don't want to add anymore tax to my cooling system
-Because its safe and out of the way
-I like to be able to pull the whole cooling package out without having to get the system drained and recharged.
-Because I wanted to try it and there was room so why not
It all started when the COVID lockdown left me with too much time on my hands so I started going down my list. AC was on the list. Not really for me because I like to suffer, but for my girlfriend at the time who would not give me what I wanted after riding in a hot Landcruiser all day.
Now back when I did this all my buddies were trying to tell me to make a kit and market it and yadda yadda. I don't think ill ever have the time and I don't really care. Really companies like vintage air or whatever should just do this because everyone would probably buy it for multiple reasons.
I knew exactly how I wanted to do it already for a few years, it all came down to which parts I should use. Rockauto to the rescue with their awesome diagrams in the parts descriptions.
First I got a condenser and make a shroud to fit some fans and mount under the back of the truck:
Why here?
-Because I drive this thing all over and don't want to add anymore tax to my cooling system
-Because its safe and out of the way
-I like to be able to pull the whole cooling package out without having to get the system drained and recharged.
-Because I wanted to try it and there was room so why not
- Thread starter
- #515
Next step was the compressor.
This part was easy for me because my engine had a spot for a bad ass mechanical variable displacement compressor:
The biggest challenge was to get a proper evaporator and have it fit below the glove box:
Insulation to reduce sweating:
And the worst part was the funky duct to plumb it to the heater box:
I kept the cross sectional area the same across it. Between that and the transitional shape crossing multiple axes this here probably took me a whole day. Not to mention making it serviceable in place.
Some vacuum molded plastic would have been ideal but I had aluminum and time.
This part was easy for me because my engine had a spot for a bad ass mechanical variable displacement compressor:
The biggest challenge was to get a proper evaporator and have it fit below the glove box:
Insulation to reduce sweating:
And the worst part was the funky duct to plumb it to the heater box:
I kept the cross sectional area the same across it. Between that and the transitional shape crossing multiple axes this here probably took me a whole day. Not to mention making it serviceable in place.
Some vacuum molded plastic would have been ideal but I had aluminum and time.
- Thread starter
- #516
Lots of funkiness' to get that duct around the defrost tube as well:
Here's all the special parts:
Made some little lines to a bulkhead fitting (ignore all that terrible wiring that as the last part of this project):
Get the thermal shutoff to prevent freezing (not really needed for variable displacement but encouraged):
Special attention must be made for the core drainage. There is a surprising amount of condensate and if even slightly mismanaged it will make your AC smell like a locker room. I don't have any pictures of it but if you have made it this far you can figure it out I'm sure.
Here's all the special parts:
Made some little lines to a bulkhead fitting (ignore all that terrible wiring that as the last part of this project):
Get the thermal shutoff to prevent freezing (not really needed for variable displacement but encouraged):
Special attention must be made for the core drainage. There is a surprising amount of condensate and if even slightly mismanaged it will make your AC smell like a locker room. I don't have any pictures of it but if you have made it this far you can figure it out I'm sure.
- Thread starter
- #517
More lines and a harness for the rear fans:
Lots of what you see was temporary for the proof of concept.
Leak test:
Lines for the compressor side:
Lots of what you see was temporary for the proof of concept.
Leak test:
Lines for the compressor side:
- Thread starter
- #518
Variable displacement requires a 4-way switch because the clutch will not cycle like a traditional compressor so you need to cycle the fans with pressure:
wiring diagram:
One of several sub-harnesses:
And because this is an off-road truck here's the mercury switch:
wiring diagram:
One of several sub-harnesses:
And because this is an off-road truck here's the mercury switch:
- Thread starter
- #519
- Thread starter
- #520
this is the best shot of the dessicant/drier location i have:
Heat shield:
AC compressor bottom left:
Now I wanted to adjust the flow in the low setting so i got a few resistors to make a temporary mock up (starting to seem permanent ):
Anyways it works great:
I get about 36* out of the vent on Hi no matter how hot outside.
Thats all I can think of at the moment. I am happy to answer any questions as they arise.
Thank you for reading,
Mike
Heat shield:
AC compressor bottom left:
Now I wanted to adjust the flow in the low setting so i got a few resistors to make a temporary mock up (starting to seem permanent
):Anyways it works great:
I get about 36* out of the vent on Hi no matter how hot outside.
Thats all I can think of at the moment. I am happy to answer any questions as they arise.
Thank you for reading,
Mike
