This has been intermittent and driving me nuts since last summer. I initially thought I got a rock stuck in my caliper because it began when driving on fresh chip seal. Since them, at seemingly random intervals I get a terrible screeching at wheel speed, when making a hard or high speed left turn. Its coming from the right front. Sometimes brake makes it go away, sometimes not. I have pulled the caliper, pulled the pads, checked the backing plate, checked the wheel bearing, checked the rotor to knuckle.... I can't find anything, no witness marks, no wear, nothing loose. Am i leaving anything out? It sounds like a train going around a corner, so I figure it's got to be something significant but I can;t for the life of me find anything.
Metal on metal squeal when turning left (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Dominic Nicandri
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- Thread starter
- #3
Unfortunately that has yielded nothing... Even bolting a pry bar across the hub I can't generate enough force to duplicate the lateral load hard cornering makes.
And the tire is not catching on the body?
Sometimes these sound can be maddening.
Are you absolutely sure it's front right? How did you isolate?
I don't understand what this clip seal is? "caliper because it began when driving on fresh chip seal"
Assume all good as you listed. Brake pads assemble, is often done wrong. Which can lead to pad side to side movement.
Sometimes sound only, seems from front. In the rear, we've two hard to find squeals, heard mostly when in turns. One's the rotors drum, rubbing on the brake brake dust shield. The other a broken piece of oil defector gasket broken.
Are you absolutely sure it's front right? How did you isolate?
I don't understand what this clip seal is? "caliper because it began when driving on fresh chip seal"
Assume all good as you listed. Brake pads assemble, is often done wrong. Which can lead to pad side to side movement.
Sometimes sound only, seems from front. In the rear, we've two hard to find squeals, heard mostly when in turns. One's the rotors drum, rubbing on the brake brake dust shield. The other a broken piece of oil defector gasket broken.
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He's saying the road had a bunch of loose chips from a recent road repair (asphalt).
- Thread starter
- #8
Hello, yes, it was fresh gravel on asphalt AKA chip seal. I will recheck the front calipers again as I also noticed the other day what i thought was the pads rattling, maybe I put an anti-rattle clip in wrong or something. I have isolated to right side based on driving with my head out the car on both sides. 90% confident its the front just based on how it loads to the outside in a hard left turn. Irregular surface on the right side will set it off occasionally
Since "I thought was the pads rattling, maybe I put an anti-rattle clip in wrong or something" . I give some frt brake assembly info.
While looking at pads. Make sure the Pad retainer, clip into pistons snugly. Be mindfully 100 series have two different anti squeal shim kit sizes. 98-02 (smaller caliper piston) and 03-07 (larger).
I clean the caliper, where pads fit at bottom and top (ends of metal backing of pads, almost touches caliper). I use a metal brush and file to clean those points. The anti squeal shims, should be greased (disk brake grease) on both side and hooked to pads. The Pad Retainer then clips into the caliper pistons. I like to use a degreaser soaked shop towel on rotor at this point. As it is last chance to clean inner rotor disk of grim, that I may have smeared on while installing pad retainer. The pad with anti squeal shim affixed, is then slipped into caliper and clips of Pad retainer at the bottom (inner side). Pad, anti squeal shim and pad retainer are held/sandwiched together, by pad retainer clip at top (outside). Then anti rattle spring goes between pads, held in by bottom slide pin.
Note:. The piston seal, pulls piston back when brake pedal released. As such pulls pads off the rotor via the pad retainer clipping into piston.
Additionally the wheel bearings must be tight. You can not have "ANY PLAY" (12 & 6 o'clock test)
Ball joints and TRE need to be in proper working condition.
While looking at pads. Make sure the Pad retainer, clip into pistons snugly. Be mindfully 100 series have two different anti squeal shim kit sizes. 98-02 (smaller caliper piston) and 03-07 (larger).
I clean the caliper, where pads fit at bottom and top (ends of metal backing of pads, almost touches caliper). I use a metal brush and file to clean those points. The anti squeal shims, should be greased (disk brake grease) on both side and hooked to pads. The Pad Retainer then clips into the caliper pistons. I like to use a degreaser soaked shop towel on rotor at this point. As it is last chance to clean inner rotor disk of grim, that I may have smeared on while installing pad retainer. The pad with anti squeal shim affixed, is then slipped into caliper and clips of Pad retainer at the bottom (inner side). Pad, anti squeal shim and pad retainer are held/sandwiched together, by pad retainer clip at top (outside). Then anti rattle spring goes between pads, held in by bottom slide pin.
Note:. The piston seal, pulls piston back when brake pedal released. As such pulls pads off the rotor via the pad retainer clipping into piston.
Additionally the wheel bearings must be tight. You can not have "ANY PLAY" (12 & 6 o'clock test)
Ball joints and TRE need to be in proper working condition.
FDS inner and outer dust shields, must not be bent. The outside dust shield is very easily bend in shipping or from touching LCA when steering knuckle is off.
Needle bearing and brass bushing need lubing every 30K miles.
Kunkle oil seal must be seated and also not bent.
FDS must be seated into diff
Brake dust shield and it's hub seal must also be in okay condition and not bent.
Snap ring must be new and gap set to spec
Needle bearing and brass bushing need lubing every 30K miles.
Kunkle oil seal must be seated and also not bent.
FDS must be seated into diff
Brake dust shield and it's hub seal must also be in okay condition and not bent.
Snap ring must be new and gap set to spec
Wheel hub and rotor must be within run-out spec.
forum.ih8mud.com
Brake rotors, machining / turning
I'm having issue with run-out! Typically I do not put a run out gauge on turned Rotors or new OEM. But decided to in this case, on just one to start with. Well ended up put run-out dial gauge on all. Procedure is to remove rotor and turn to new position on hub, if out of spec, or just wanting...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #12
Thank you for the details on that. I think just viewing these photos versus whats in my memory that something might be amiss with the pad retainer. I will double check. Front axle shafts are nearly new and I put in proper new retainer clips. Lower ball joints are also new. Proper backlash as well as zero 12-6 movement. I am not sure about that brass bushing, I have never had the hubs apart 
- Thread starter
- #13
Well after taking the front wheels off and disassembling the brake calipers again, now i think it might be in the rear actually. I may have had two different squeaks going on. I just had the rears redone last year by a shop that went out of business (pressed for time I couldn't do them myself fast enough) so I wonder if they screwed something up.
Check the calipers in rears, than.
But we do get other sounds from rears, I think I mentioned.
But we do get other sounds from rears, I think I mentioned.
- Brake dust shield rub on rotors drum inner edge. Pull rotor and look for rub marks on dust shield.
- Oil defector's paper seal broken and in drum rubbings. (This is more of a lite scraping sound)
Best I can add here is that I quite often get a rock stuck between rotor and dust shield. But it doesn't change with turning of the vehicle. Sometimes it's not visible either.
Here's to hoping it's a simple fix for you.
Here's to hoping it's a simple fix for you.
- Thread starter
- #16
Well after having everything apart multiple times, I finally found it. As i thought, it was a rock between the rotor and the backing plate... in the rear. I also found the shop I hired to redo the rear brakes improperly adjusted the parking brake in the process. All fixed! Replaced my rotted out muffler at the same time too, its so quiet now!
Damn rock! Nice find. For some reason my driver side rear always gets a stone in there. Sometimes reversing clears it out . Otherwise I carry a little awl pick to get at it . It tends to get caught mid way up on the front side of dust shield
