Meet Merl (1 Viewer)

[Slow Left]

Funny story: Sunday night my truck was broken into in the secured garage at my building. The windows weren't forced down nor were the locks – they just popped the doors right open. I lost $600 in tools, camping gear and stereo equipment.

Yeah, that sucks.

Kevin Rowland at Wagon Gear makes really nice, lockable hatches for the tailgate lid and rear cargo area side panels:

http://wagongear.com/product-category/60-series/

Also plenty of threads on MUD of folks making their own...

...so you can lock up those tools and other cowgirl stuff...

 

[gregnash]

Yeah that is one of my biggest fears. My mtbs cost more than the truck does so I am always worried about someone peeking in and getting a wild hair.

 

[atomicshawn]

Welcome. Merl is the best color they came in by the way...

...a completely unbiased opinion ; )

 

[drillduty]

Check your local pawn shops if tools are marked they may pop up. Most pawn shops have video surveillance. Spent twenty years in the military and 5 years in Ft Hood can't tell you how many times we found our stolen goods and military gear sitting on there shelves!

 

[TejasMerl]

Thank you all for the encouraging words! I got myself a lockable center console to store the small and important stuff – hoping that this was a one off experience but realizing I should be more diligent about storing gear and tools.

Edit: I'm doing a few small mods to the console before installing (including hand-stitched leather armrest and flashlight holder) and I'll post photos of soon.

 

[TejasMerl]

Another question for the forum: This last weekend I drove Merl out to far west Texas and back - 900 miles - just to see if she could do it. And she did, admirably, and the drive was incredible. But a few things did not go exactly as I'd hoped and now I need some advice on what's going on, realizing it could be a few things, and I don't know if a) I should take her to the mechanic and b) if I did what I would say the problem is.

Here's what's happening:

1. About 300 miles in: going up big long hills (4th gear, 2k-3k rpm, 55-62mph) she feels bogged down, possibly misfiring, not responding to pushing on the gas pedal. This happens off and on for 60ish miles then stops altogether.
2. Pulling into town for gas: in low gear she behaves the same as above. Misfiring? Not responsive to pressing on the gas. Then getting up into third and fourth gear she evens out and drives smoothly again at 62mph, responsive and handling well.
3. Repeat items 1 and 2 for the remaining 300 miles of the trip, then...
4. Driving back into Austin after 8 solid hours on the highway and we're back down in gears 1-3 in traffic. She's idling HIGH and getting HOT. Usually she idles in the 1krpm range, now idling at or above 2k.
5. Stopping for more than a few minutes at a stoplight or turning the engine off then back on while hot and the temp indicator shows the engine is almost in the danger zone.
6. Now a few days later she starts up as usual but is still idling around 2k. Very concerning.

This is a brand new set of challenges that I haven't experienced in Merl before. Any advice about what could be going on and what I should do about it?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I vote vacuum leak...with truck idleing COLD shoot short bursts of starting fluid at places like base of carb, egr flange, intake to head flange, vacuum doohickies and whatnots..one burst and wait for several seconds to see if idle quality changes. when you notice a change in idle, take note of what it was that had the flammable mist intorduced to it and trouble shoot that...it could be an undone hose(very likely after a long drive) a cracked doohicky or whatnot, a cracked intake(can happen but would not self resolve...) dirty/ faulty carb, or even a stuck open egr valve. lots of threads on subjects that would cover things of this nature. try to determine what it isn't, then explore things it could be...

 

[Chester]

#1-#3 Fuel? Fuel filter?
#4-#6 That can of worms can get deep

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

also, check your timing...just cuz.

 

[Slow Left]

Sounds like you've got two symptoms you're trying to diagnose. I would approach it assuming that they are caused by independent factors, but if they are related, then you will end up troubleshooting it back to the same cause anyhow.

The loss of power is probably generally related to wrong air/fuel mixture and/or wrong spark timing.
If you aren't getting enough fuel when it's being asked for (clogged fuel filter, failing fuel pump, plugged circuit in the carb) or if there is a vac leak that is letting in additional air behind the carb (where the fuel/air ratio is supposed to be determined) then it could explain that symptom.
If the spark timing isn't advancing correctly as rpms increase (weak springs in the dizzy, vac advance not working), then you might not be getting ignition at the right time (rpm dependent).
EDIT: But if I remember correctly, you previously had an issue with low compression on cylinder #5. Have you had a chance to run the valves and go back and recheck compression?

The overheating is something you'll probably want to address asap.
Is the volume of coolant in the radiator decreasing?
If coolant is leaking you should see the puddle...if it is burning you should see white smoke coming out of the tailpipe (coolant leaking through head gasket and burning in cylinder(s))...
If you see a puddle, check the hoses and the water pump. The water pump is manufactured to 'weep' from a plug in it's casing if the bearings are starting to go.
If volume of coolant in the radiator is holding constant, then it might either be a thermostat stuck closed or the radiator is dying and isn't exchanging heat efficiently.


EDIT: There are a series of procedures in the Emissions FSM to test the EGR system. An EGR Valve that is either stuck open or closed will affect engine performance as a function of rpm.

 

[The Phoenician]

for being adventurous. Out of curiosity, what was your pan if you broke down 400 miles from Austin? I'm only asking because I'm eventually going to make that trip as well.

 

[klinetime574]

I'm betting the heat riser flap in the exhaust manifold is bad. When it fails it will either route air across the bottom of the intake permanently or bypass it permanently.

Coolant levels checked out okay? Does the radiator have any leaks?

Situations 1 and 2 just sound like they could be overheating issues to me.

 

[TejasMerl]

Thanks y'all for your input. I think these are separate issues and I'll try to diagnose as such:

1. Vacuum leak, hose leak, something leaking
2. Carb imbalance - fuel mixture, or vacuum leak
3. Spark plugs, timing

 

[TejasMerl]

Sounds like you've got two symptoms you're trying to diagnose. I would approach it assuming that they are caused by independent factors, but if they are related, then you will end up troubleshooting it back to the same cause anyhow.

The loss of power is probably generally related to wrong air/fuel mixture and/or wrong spark timing.
If you aren't getting enough fuel when it's being asked for (clogged fuel filter, failing fuel pump, plugged circuit in the carb) or if there is a vac leak that is letting in additional air behind the carb (where the fuel/air ratio is supposed to be determined) then it could explain that symptom.
If the spark timing isn't advancing correctly as rpms increase (weak springs in the dizzy, vac advance not working), then you might not be getting ignition at the right time (rpm dependent).
EDIT: But if I remember correctly, you previously had an issue with low compression on cylinder #5. Have you had a chance to run the valves and go back and recheck compression?

The overheating is something you'll probably want to address asap.
Is the volume of coolant in the radiator decreasing?
If coolant is leaking you should see the puddle...if it is burning you should see white smoke coming out of the tailpipe (coolant leaking through head gasket and burning in cylinder(s))...
If you see a puddle, check the hoses and the water pump. The water pump is manufactured to 'weep' from a plug in it's casing if the bearings are starting to go.
If volume of coolant in the radiator is holding constant, then it might either be a thermostat stuck closed or the radiator is dying and isn't exchanging heat efficiently.


EDIT: There are a series of procedures in the Emissions FSM to test the EGR system. An EGR Valve that is either stuck open or closed will affect engine performance as a function of rpm.

View attachment 929279

I haven't done the valve & compression retest yet.
The coolant is not leaking, no puddles.
Now I'm worried that the radiator is dying.

 

[TejasMerl]

for being adventurous. Out of curiosity, what was your pan if you broke down 400 miles from Austin? I'm only asking because I'm eventually going to make that trip as well.

The plan was to call AAA.
We packed a big box of beer and a frisbee to entertain ourselves in the event of a breakdown.

 

[Slow Left]

I haven't done the valve & compression retest yet.
The coolant is not leaking, no puddles.
Now I'm worried that the radiator is dying.

Hmmm...since, in order to run further diagnoses on the power loss, you've got to safely run the engine up to operating temp with overheating and causing further problems, I would first:

1) install a new thermostat (maybe get the 180*F Toyota thermostat along with a new gasket and new o-ring that sits on top of the thermostat)
and if that doesn't solve the problem, since you are in Texas (gotta keep cool...) and depending on how old that radiator is or if it is old and condition unknown
2) get a new radiator with hoses

On the thermostat, I'd go to Toyota (either a local Toyota dealership or @beno if you want a MUD discount and excellent service).

On the radiator, I can't remember which one I installed last summer, but I think it was a CSF (maybe @Spike Strip will chime in here, if I remember correctly he did a pretty thorough analysis of which after market radiator is well suited). And if you do the radiator, might consider replacing all the heater hoses too, if they are the original 30 yr old hoses...

Remember, after you break a line in the cooling system and introduce air into the system, you've got to burp afterwards, otherwise that trapped air can act as a blockage and prevent flow...causing problems (localized spike in temperature that can blow through a head gasket, for example).

EDIT: Thoughts on how to decide whether or not you need a new radiator...

1) Based on information you have about the age of the radiator/hoses/etc. (service records from previous owner?)
2) Based on diagnosis (behavior, process of elimination)
3) Based on a test (remove radiator and take it to a shop...to get tested...)

If it were me, and I knew that the radiator and hoses were the original (or by looking at it had a pretty good indication that this was so...), then I would get a new one and replace the hoses/clamps...simply because I think keeping these 2F engines cool is the humane thing to do. Replacing the hoses (including heater hoses) all at once make strategic sense, because if you replace them as they 'blow', not only do you have to deal with the headache of servicing a vehicle on the side of the road, but as you replace an old one with a new one, now another old one becomes the weak point of the system, only to blow a couple weeks down the road and you get to repeat the unhappy (and stressful) process of 'survival mechanics'.
Especially in TX, where it is hot (or so I have heard), having a trustworthy cooling system is the most advantageous position to be in.

And, based on your story above (number 2...diagnosis..), I would assume that if everything else in the cooling system is working correctly (water pump and thermostat and no blockage), then your radiator is causing the overheating.

As far as number 3, I wouldn't even bother if you have a aged radiator/hoses.
Why spend the time/money to get the one you have in there tested/'fixed'...go straight to new based on information from number 1 and observation from number 2.
Info on 'Rodding Out' a radiator:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2462475



Also, I would seriously consider getting a new water pump and gasket and installing it if you have the radiator out. Keep the old water pump (along with another new gasket) in the vehicle in for emergency...as long as the old water pump is still functioning correctly.

That is what I would do, but it is only an opinion based on limited specific information about your rig...only assuming that the radiator, thermostat, water pump and hoses are all over 10 years old, if not the originals....

EDIT: EDIT: What you could do, though, is:
1) Do the thermostat fix (see below)
2) take the rig in as is (with current radiator/waterpump/hoses/etc.) and get the whole system flushed. Take it a mechanic you trust that has a machine that hooks up to the upper and lower radiator hose and pumps fluid/cleaners/etc through the system...it cleans out any deposits (due to reduction reactions between the metal and ions in solution)
3) evaluate if you want to do the radiator/hoses/water pump fix...

 

[TejasMerl]

Hmmm...since, in order to run further diagnoses on the power loss, you've got to safely run the engine up to operating temp with overheating and causing further problems, I would first:

1) install a new thermostat (maybe get the 180*F Toyota thermostat along with a new gasket and new o-ring that sits on top of the thermostat)
and if that doesn't solve the problem, since you are in Texas (gotta keep cool...) and depending on how old that radiator is or if it is old and condition unknown
2) get a new radiator with hoses

On the thermostat, I'd go to Toyota (either a local Toyota dealership or @beno if you want a MUD discount and excellent service).

On the radiator, I can't remember which one I installed last summer, but I think it was a CSF (maybe @Spike Strip will chime in here, if I remember correctly he did a pretty thorough analysis of which after market radiator is well suited). And if you do the radiator, might consider replacing all the heater hoses too, if they are the original 30 yr old hoses...

Remember, after you break a line in the cooling system and introduce air into the system, you've got to burp afterwards, otherwise that trapped air can act as a blockage and prevent flow...causing problems (localized spike in temperature that can blow through a head gasket, for example).

F*************

I'm in so far over my head.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[OGBeno]

F*************

I'm in so far over my head.

Thanks for the tips.

Always remember that you are dealing with a 30+ year old truck: care and feeding of said truck is entirely different than getting in a 2010 Camry and driving.

It takes a different mentality that some folks cannot grasp. The sooner you grasp it and understand it, the sooner you will be on your way to a very reliable and iconic Land Cruiser.



Luckily, these trucks are pretty easy to understand and work on. You have a very large support group here.

 

[Slow Left]

F*************

I'm in so far over my head.

Thanks for the tips.

No, not really. Break it down into steps.

The first step is the thermostat.

Replacing the thermostat with a new one and new gaskets is low cost-high reward decision...because the thermostat opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant in order to regulate overall average temperature of the cooling system. Keeping the engine at the right temp and not running hot is one of the best things you can do as far as preventative maintenance...

So a 180*F thermostat will open when the temperature of the coolant next to it (in the engine block) reaches 180*F (and so a 190*F thermostat will open when that coolant temperature reaches 190*F - remember that water boils at 212*F, but your cooling system is both under pressure and filled 50% with antifreeze - which has a higher boiling and lower freezing point than pure water).
When the thermostat opens, it allows cooler coolant that is coming in from the radiator (where it has just been cooled down) to be pumped (by the water pump) into the engine block.
In the engine block, the coolant 'takes' the heat that is being generated as a result of combustion in the cylinders.
The hot coolant flows through the engine block/heater hoses and directed back to the radiator where it is cooled down because cool air passing between the fins in the radiator 'takes' the heat away from the coolant.
The now cooler coolant is ready to be pumped back into the engine block by the water pump to do it all over again.

If the coolant in the engine block is below 180*F (like when you first start the engine), the thermostat remains closed until it reaches 180*F (aka 'operating temperature'), then it opens. You can usually 'see' this happen if you watch the temperature gauge on your instrument cluster climb and climb until the thermostat opens, then the needle on the gauge will 'drop' slightly and remain 'at operating temperature' by cycling open/closed to maintain that constant temperature.

If you get the 180*F thermostat (I would recommend this), the engine will run 10*F cooler than the 190*F thermostat.

So, going back to your symptoms...high needle position on the temperature gauge when, after long highway driving, entering stop/go traffic. In stop/go traffic, the cool air is no longer rushing over the surface of the radiator fins, so it will be more difficult for an inefficient (i.e. old) radiator to keep up with the heat exchange OR the thermostat is stuck closed, so none of the cool coolant is being pumped into the engine block to replace all the hot coolant in there. Since the temperature sending unit (the sensor that measure the temperature of the coolant at the engine block) is located on the DS head back near the #6 cylinder, the high temperature reading you are seeing might be due to either of the two conditions I described above. (Note: it could also be do to a failed temperature sensing unit or wire that reads the signal, but I would fail first on the safe side and do the thermostat first).

I'll post instructions for 'burping' too...


EDIT: Radiator Options:

1) CSF - see https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ccot-radiator.563681/#post-7379522
and
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/radiator.204398/#post-3025456

- the old style CSF part #2226 - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G3R7F6/?tag=ihco-20

- the newer style that is supposed to fit both 60/62 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/CSF-2708-Rugged-All-Metal-Radiator-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-81-87-/310644647477?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4853dd2635

2) Cool Cruisers of Texas (also an aftermarket radiator, but not sure which brand) - http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/radfj19thru1.html

EDIT: EDIT:

Looks like the CSF part #2226 is the way to go, given the above information/pricing/availability...if you have to replace the radiator...

 

[Slow Left]

Replacing Thermostat:

Soak the four bolts on the thermostat housing with PB Blaster (hit 'em a couple times a day for a couple days before you remove those bolts).
Remove the four bolts on the housing and lift of the top part of the housing.
Don't even need to drain the radiator (but if you don't drain some coolant, when you remove the top of the thermostat housing, coolant will flow out until the level reaches the lowest level...so a bucket under the engine will catch any drips...).

Just when you reinstall the new thermostat:
1) make sure it is installed right side up (the picture below shows it installed the correct way - with the o-ring on top)
2) clean off the top face of the bottom part of the thermostat housing - scrape with a razor blade and wipe clean with a clean rag - same for bottom face of the top part of the thermostat housing
3) you can put a very thin coat of "The Right Stuff" on those newly cleaned faces before adding the gasket and putting everything back together. But make sure those faces are clean and dry (can be tricky to do with fluid still in the bowl of the bottom part of the housing, but it is an art...not a science)
4) put some Permatex copper anti-sieze on the threads of the bolts before threading them back in.
5) Don't over tighten the bolts. Just Snug. Remember, you are threading into aluminum, which is soft and can easily be stripped.
6) Burp
7) Run and evaluate if further repairs are necessary. If you do decide that you need to install a new water pump or radiator, no need to go back and undo the thermostat stuff. Just remember to burp again after that fix, too.

Burping:

For burping (this is after you have done the fix and are ready to test/run the truck again):
Before you start the truck, take the radiator cap off and get that funnel on (see below for information on funnel). Fill through the funnel until the coolant fills the funnel up about 1/2 to 3/4 full. That should be higher than any point on the rest of the cooling system (assuming you're parked on flat ground).

Start the truck and TURN BOTH HEATERS ON FULL BLAST. Keep heaters on full blast during burping procedure, you want the coolant flowing through the heaters to push through any trapped air there and move it out to your funnel. Herding air bubbles. More that just herding them, you're setting them free! They should be thanking you.

As it sits there idling, keep adding coolant to the funnel so it is at least 1/2 full. As the engine comes up to operating temperature and the thermostat SHOULD OPEN and remain at operating temp and any trapped air should start to bubble out through the coolant in the funnel and release into the atmosphere (...burp...). Add coolant if you need to as the air comes out and the level in the funnel drops, but not too full, because as the truck gets hot, the coolant is going to expand naturally and will move up higher in the funnel. Your gonna want to run it for a good while (45 mins or more) to let that thermostat continue to cycle and release trapped air. When you are convinced the air is out, remove the funnel and cap the radiator. Fill the overflow container 1/2 full will coolant. Should be good to go.

Funnel:
Get one of these - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A4EAV0/?tag=ihco-20

Additional directions for using funnel/burping (if mine weren't clear enough) - http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/

EDIT:

List of Things (Tools and such) you will Need for this Fix

1) New Toyota Thermostat (180*F) - see Beno for price
2) New Toyota Thermostat Housing gasket- see Beno for price
3) New Toyota Thermostat 0-ring- see Beno for price
3.4) Four new bolts/washers for the thermostat housing - see Beno for price
3.5) any additional hoses/clamps that Beno recommends
4) PB Blaster penatrating catalyst - any aftermarket auto store - see http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ating-catalyst/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=515413
5) Permatex Copper anti-sieze lubricant - any aftermarket auto store - see http://www.permatex.com/products-2/.../permatex--copper-anti-seize-lubricant-detail
6) Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant - any aftermarket auto store - see http://www.permatex.com/products/our-brands/the-right-stuff
7) funnel for burping - see above amazon link
8) antifreeze (~1 or 2 gallons depending on how much you loose...buy 50/50 blend or buy full strength and dilute to 50/50 with distilled water) - any aftermarket auto store
9) straight razor blades (disposable kind) - see image below - Home depot or Auto parts store??
10) roll of shop rags (I use the cheap red ones) - any aftermarket auto parts store
11) ratchet and set of metric sockets - hopefully not stolen from Merl?
12) an extra set of hands?
13) some good tunes...