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The Phoenician said:
We're gonna get your rig set up to make that trip to big bend. I haven't been yet and am excited about it.

Before you pulled up there was a faded brown 60 that turned right at the light before. I guess the east side is where all the cruisers heads are now.
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Dude, 2 weeks bumping around big bend with a couple of bikes and a kayak or canoe? YES PLEASE.

I think I know which rig you're talking about - hangs out at Yellow Jacket and I've been trying to ID...http://instagram.com/p/nVpIq7Gp-H/?modal=true
 
Slow Left said:
Yeah, that's a cold start. You shouldn't need the choke on hot starts (restarts after the engine is at operating temp). Does it require the choke on hot-starts?

I had a similar problem, but with winter time overnight temperatures dipping down into the -10 or -20 degrees last winter and readjusting the choke plate to make a nice tight seal solved the problem. It's because the choke plate creates the proper vacuum for the carb to draw enough fuel from the fuel bowl...

I think Lambcrusher's giving you good advice on some trouble shooting...that'll help you decide which option that Beno laid out is best to follow...
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Starts right up when hot, and cold on same-day drives. I'm concerned that it'll get worse when the temps (eventually) dip here, so I'll try Lambcrusher's tips and see how it goes.
 
After the truck sits for those few days, check the level of fuel in the carb bowl. Mine will evaporate over a few days and then needs the pump to fill carb again before firing.
 
tag3 said:
After the truck sits for those few days, check the level of fuel in the carb bowl. Mine will evaporate over a few days and then needs the pump to fill carb again before firing.
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A friend of mine with an FJ62 recommended placing the key in the accessory position for a few minutes to let the fuel pump do a little work pre-starting. Doesn't seem to work for me though.
 
As all the others have said, welcome to mud :flipoff2: <--- Official mud welcome!

TejasMerl said:
A friend of mine with an FJ62 recommended placing the key in the accessory position for a few minutes to let the fuel pump do a little work pre-starting. Doesn't seem to work for me though.
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62 came with an electric fuel pump, the 60 does not so doing that (unless the PO put in an electric pump) is not going to do much but drain the battery slightly. I have similar issues and am still, slowly mind you, working on it to figure out where the issue is. Like Tag3 said, I you have it sitting for more than a few days the fuel in bowl will evaporate and thus necessitate you getting more in there. May be a good time to do a full tune up on her if you haven't already (do cap, rotor, fuel filter, air cleaner, check all vacuum line, battery connections, etc. and do the timing while you are at it).

Slow Left said:
Thread on replacing window regulator (@vipergrhd ):

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/window-regulator.599557/

see post #2 in the following thread (@norsk ) for less expensive, after market window regulators:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/aftermarket-window-regs.752168/#post-8654557
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Window regulators are fairly easy, just a bit ackward because of the ribbing in the door. Had to replace my drivers side one because the teeth in it were completely gone and it would go up a few ticks then had to be pulled up/pushed down. Dorman regulator through eBay was like $60 with shipping I think and has worked flawlessly. When doing the replacement be sure to be careful of the small screws the hold the regulator in the door, I killed a couple of the screws, found out they were M6x1.00 (if I remember correctly). Plenty of tutorials out there and knowledge on here to help.
 
Slow Left said:
Thread on replacing window regulator (@vipergrhd ):

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/window-regulator.599557/

see post #2 in the following thread (@norsk ) for less expensive, after market window regulators:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/aftermarket-window-regs.752168/#post-8654557
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gregnash said:
As all the others have said, welcome to mud :flipoff2: <--- Official mud welcome!

Window regulators are fairly easy, just a bit ackward because of the ribbing in the door. Had to replace my drivers side one because the teeth in it were completely gone and it would go up a few ticks then had to be pulled up/pushed down. Dorman regulator through eBay was like $60 with shipping I think and has worked flawlessly. When doing the replacement be sure to be careful of the small screws the hold the regulator in the door, I killed a couple of the screws, found out they were M6x1.00 (if I remember correctly). Plenty of tutorials out there and knowledge on here to help.
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Thanks for the welcome gregnash! I have the same problem with my driver's side door. Got new aftermarket regulators, just need to put em in. I've attempted the fix once but found a bunch of stuck bolts. Must fix soon! Thanks for the screw tips.
 
TejasMerl said:
A friend of mine with an FJ62 recommended placing the key in the accessory position for a few minutes to let the fuel pump do a little work pre-starting. Doesn't seem to work for me though.
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The FJ62 is fuel injection and has an electric fuel pump that comes on when the key is turned on.
Your FJ60 has a carburetor. To get fuel to the carb, the engine must turn over and activate the purely mechanical fuel pump for any fuel to flow.
That is why the position of the key seems to have no effect on your vehicle, because there is no electric fuel pump.
 
PB Blaster will be your best friend. Douse those bolts/screws with it and let them sit for a good day or so then go after them again.
 
SmartyPants said:
The FJ62 is fuel injection and has an electric fuel pump that comes on when the key is turned on.
Your FJ60 has a carburetor. To get fuel to the carb, the engine must turn over and activate the purely mechanical fuel pump for any fuel to flow.
That is why the position of the key seems to have no effect on your vehicle, because there is no electric fuel pump.
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Got it - thanks!
 
gregnash said:
PB Blaster will be your best friend. Douse those bolts/screws with it and let them sit for a good day or so then go after them again.
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Definitely need to get my hands on that PB Blaster.

Funny story: Sunday night my truck was broken into in the secured garage at my building. The windows weren't forced down nor were the locks – they just popped the doors right open. I lost $600 in tools, camping gear and stereo equipment.

Is there a forum or classifieds for stolen tools that ya'll are aware of?

And if you're in the Austin area, beware of a guy on the loose robbing cars en masse.
 
My car is a really a VBIED that can detonate remotely. Thieves know....... one second getting a phone call from a government number.
 
reevesci said:
People like this should be HUNG!

I still believe in "southern" justice and hanging on the court house lawn... Sorry for the loss. If I were local you could use my shop/tools to work on your rig...

J
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J, what you need is Arab justice, cut their hands off. Ever wonder why there's no rape in Saudi Arabia?



Cause Camels can't file a police report :grinpimp:.

Thank you, I'm here all night.



Seriously though, I feel for you TejaMerl, sorry that happened.
 
best rule of defense is not to be there- or rather, to make them think you're not there- or the tools and gear...if they can see it, they will try to take it...Had $1500 of tools take a walk one day while eating breakfast; took a couple years to get back to where I was, toolwise. it kinda sucks, but sometimes having a beater appearance is not a bad thing- it's what's under the hood that counts. and some comfy seats,,,only other thought is to always leave it open so that they won't feel a need to break it to rob something. only thing worse than being robbed by thieves is being robbed after by the mechanic. also, maybe time for a front bullbar, in case you find the guy walkin down the street with your sleeping bag...
 
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