Meet Merl

[gregnash]

^^^ Agree with SL and these are some great tutorial bits. Also remember that you have a VERY large community that is here to back you on the internet as well as your local clubs. When I first started, 2yrs ago now, the last time I had worked on a car was with my dad and I was maybe 15yrs old. And really at that point it was more my dad asking me to hand him tools or "hold this" type scenario.

Best thing you can do is dive in headlong, these are old trucks and actually very forgiving. Take your time, download the FSMs if you have not yet (see my sig) and when you can buy Toyota OEM parts through either @beno, @Sam Stewart, or the like. There are also multiple resources out there for cross referencing part numbers and what not. Again you have a VERY large community here with experts from every walk of life that are more than willing to help. Take your time, take a deep breath and you will be just fine!

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

You can do it!! one thing at a time. with patience and the will.

 

[TejasMerl]

Replacing Thermostat:

Soak the four bolts on the thermostat housing with PB Blaster (hit 'em a couple times a day for a couple days before you remove those bolts).
Remove the four bolts on the housing and lift of the top part of the housing.
Don't even need to drain the radiator (but if you don't drain some coolant, when you remove the top of the thermostat housing, coolant will flow out until the level reaches the lowest level...so a bucket under the engine will catch any drips...).

Just when you reinstall the new thermostat:
1) make sure it is installed right side up (the picture below shows it installed the correct way - with the o-ring on top)
2) clean off the top face of the bottom part of the thermostat housing - scrape with a razor blade and wipe clean with a clean rag - same for bottom face of the top part of the thermostat housing
3) you can put a very thin coat of "The Right Stuff" on those newly cleaned faces before adding the gasket and putting everything back together. But make sure those faces are clean and dry (can be tricky to do with fluid still in the bowl of the bottom part of the housing, but it is an art...not a science)
4) put some Permatex copper anti-sieze on the threads of the bolts before threading them back in.
5) Don't over tighten the bolts. Just Snug. Remember, you are threading into aluminum, which is soft and can easily be stripped.
6) Burp
7) Run and evaluate if further repairs are necessary. If you do decide that you need to install a new water pump or radiator, no need to go back and undo the thermostat stuff. Just remember to burp again after that fix, too.

View attachment 929464


Burping:

For burping (this is after you have done the fix and are ready to test/run the truck again):
Before you start the truck, take the radiator cap off and get that funnel on (see below for information on funnel). Fill through the funnel until the coolant fills the funnel up about 1/2 to 3/4 full. That should be higher than any point on the rest of the cooling system (assuming you're parked on flat ground).

Start the truck and TURN BOTH HEATERS ON FULL BLAST. Keep heaters on full blast during burping procedure, you want the coolant flowing through the heaters to push through any trapped air there and move it out to your funnel. Herding air bubbles. More that just herding them, you're setting them free! They should be thanking you.

As it sits there idling, keep adding coolant to the funnel so it is at least 1/2 full. As the engine comes up to operating temperature and the thermostat SHOULD OPEN and remain at operating temp and any trapped air should start to bubble out through the coolant in the funnel and release into the atmosphere (...burp...). Add coolant if you need to as the air comes out and the level in the funnel drops, but not too full, because as the truck gets hot, the coolant is going to expand naturally and will move up higher in the funnel. Your gonna want to run it for a good while (45 mins or more) to let that thermostat continue to cycle and release trapped air. When you are convinced the air is out, remove the funnel and cap the radiator. Fill the overflow container 1/2 full will coolant. Should be good to go.

Funnel:
Get one of these - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A4EAV0/?tag=ihco-20

Additional directions for using funnel/burping (if mine weren't clear enough) - http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/

EDIT:

List of Things (Tools and such) you will Need for this Fix

1) New Toyota Thermostat (180*F) - see Beno for price
2) New Toyota Thermostat Housing gasket- see Beno for price
3) New Toyota Thermostat 0-ring- see Beno for price
3.4) Four new bolts/washers for the thermostat housing - see Beno for price
3.5) any additional hoses/clamps that Beno recommends
4) PB Blaster penatrating catalyst - any aftermarket auto store - see http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ating-catalyst/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=515413
5) Permatex Copper anti-sieze lubricant - any aftermarket auto store - see http://www.permatex.com/products-2/.../permatex--copper-anti-seize-lubricant-detail
6) Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant - any aftermarket auto store - see http://www.permatex.com/products/our-brands/the-right-stuff
7) funnel for burping - see above amazon link
8) antifreeze (~1 or 2 gallons depending on how much you loose...buy 50/50 blend or buy full strength and dilute to 50/50 with distilled water) - any aftermarket auto store
9) straight razor blades (disposable kind) - see image below - Home depot or Auto parts store??
10) roll of shop rags (I use the cheap red ones) - any aftermarket auto parts store
11) ratchet and set of metric sockets - hopefully not stolen from Merl?
12) an extra set of hands?
13) some good tunes...

Wow - thank you for your consideration of my issues and the incredibly detailed help you've provided!

Over the weekend I ID'd the vacuum leak - turns out that when the previous owner had the smog kit removed, they plugged the vacuum intake with silicone which had degraded and begun leaking (fingers crossed none of the silicone plug got sucked into the engine). When the leak was covered with a finger the idle instantly dropped and she also stopped dieseling when cut off.

Adjusting the carb also found a missing spring and a super-rich mixture. Adjusted that and idling is back down at 9k. Not as low as I'd like but lower than before all this nonsense.

 

[Slow Left]

Wow - thank you for your consideration of my issues and the incredibly detailed help you've provided!

Over the weekend I ID'd the vacuum leak - turns out that when the previous owner had the smog kit removed, they plugged the vacuum intake with silicone which had degraded and begun leaking (fingers crossed none of the silicone plug got sucked into the engine). When the leak was covered with a finger the idle instantly dropped and she also stopped dieseling when cut off.

Adjusting the carb also found a missing spring and a super-rich mixture. Adjusted that and idling is back down at 9k. Not as low as I'd like but lower than before all this nonsense.

Huh. I wonder which "vacuum intake" you are referring to that was plugged with silicone... That's great that you got ID'd that vac leak and got the idle back down. Not sure which technique you used to set the carb, but I'll attach the 'lean drop' method below in case that helps. Also, as @LAMBCRUSHER mentions, when you start plugging all those leaks (and making things better), you're gonna have to recheck that timing as a step in the tune-up process...

A heads up on those 4 bolts for the thermostat housing (if you ever decide to tackle that), they are usually corroded and often snap off. Some folks go real slow and use heat on the bolts with 1/4 turn at a time and a good dousing with PB Blaster, let it sit for half a day, then go back for another heat/1/4 turn/PB blaster bath. If you do break a head off one of the bolts, not to worry, you can remove the whole housing from the side of the engine block (held on by 2 bolts) and work on getting the top 4 out with the whole housing off the block...and either new bolts or if the old bolts came out no problem and threads can be wire brushed/steel wool to clean them then covered (including the bottom face of the bolt heads) liberally with that Permatex Copper anti-sieze before reinstalling, then getting them off again x years down the road will be that much easier.

Then after the thermostat fix, I would take it in to get the cooling system professionally flushed/treated, then evaluate and decide on the radiator/hoses/waterpump fix...make sure they run both front and rear heaters full blast during the flush!

Also attached is 'desmog' procedure if you want to go over the previous owner's work and make any adjustments/improvements...

 

[60Works]

OK, so I couldn't get myself to read all of the last few lengthy and detailed posts, so I'm risking repeating others suggestions. But...

Could it be as simple as a Merle's fan clutch? The truck was running cool on the highway - good airflow. It was running hot in town - low airflow.

Some people check this by carefully and gently sticking a few pages of rolled up paper a few millimeters into the spinning fan blades, held such that the paper is angled so the fan will bat it sideways and not pull the paper into the fan. Fingers tend to hold tight to the paper and follow into the fan, so this isn't a rookie move. I'm not suggesting you try it!

If the fan clutch is weak a couple of pages of paper will stop the fan from spinning.

If it's strong it will tatter the paper without slowing in the slightest.

If it's seized it will roar when you start it cold.

I would recommend trying to save your OEM radiator if at all possible. Radiators are expensive. They are a pain to change. And all the new aftermarket ones are crap. Chinese/Taiwanese solder has more lead than the Japanese/American solder. Lead melts at a lower temperature and will spring leaks sooner.

Changing your hoses is good advice but I've got a couple of trucks with original rubber and have never had any problems. If they aren't leaking and you don't have to drain the coolant for something else, then I'd look for your problem elsewhere. Hoses are a housekeeping item compared to the other problems you have.

Fix your known squawks first.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

just had the OE radiator boilt and put it back for another 25 years of service. cost 70 bucks. I second rebuilt parts over new aftermarket...

 

[Slow Left]

Hey TM, how's Merl?

What's the word on the overheating and vac/idle issues, any new insights into what might be going on?

 

[TejasMerl]

Hi again! So it's been awhile and it's time to give some updates (2 years of updates) to Merl's build story!

Here's where we left off, and also where we are now:

First of all, THANK YOU to all of the folks that chimed in with recommendations when I was dealing with a slew of vacuum leaks, thermostat issues and a dead cylinder - your advice helped me get through some dark times! The short of the story of the last two years is ALL THAT STUFF IS FIXED. Hallelujah.

The long part is what I'll share with ya'll now...

 

[TejasMerl]

I bought Merl, a 1983 FJ60, off of a rancher in Universal City, Texas. She was the first FJ I found on the internet in my price range, and the first that I test drove (I know, I know). I didn't take her to a mechanic because I was so in love - the previous owner had a few Land Cruisers and had used this one as a ranch truck for 15 years, and swore up and down what a great truck it was. I bought her after a short 4wd session and after seeing a stack of mechanic's receipts that *proved* she was in good working order. He wouldn't budge much on the price, so I panicked and paid him $7500. I drove the two hours back to Austin with the biggest grin and a racing heartbeat. Merl is the first car I've ever purchased.

Since then we've gone out to west Texas and she's been my daily driver, and we're heading up to Colorado next month to visit home and fulfill her ultimate purpose. I've poured a lot of money into fixes and more time into trying to learn how she works. I've mostly come to terms with the fact that I'm a romantic that has a hard time understanding the logic required to rebuild mechanical parts, so I've focused on cosmetics and simple customizations while I learn bits and pieces of the engine as needed.

Here is where we are now. If you're curious for details on any aspect, post a comment and I'll dig it out of the archives.

248,499+ miles (at purchase, but it turns out the Odo was broken. I have no idea how many miles she has but I've put at least 6k on her)

Known issues when purchased/date (white) and Update/current status (blue)
leaking seals and gaskets
no air conditioning
First things first: 9/13 - wrap steering wheel, install Alpine stereo and speakers, replace carpet and install new seat covers
When cold, turns over 10x before starting See below
Battery 7/13 - replaced under warrantee, but still having problems with dying battery
Alternator not charging 2/14 - replaced with Bosch alternator (realized the battery problem was an alternator problem)
broken window regulators on driver door and rear passenger door
Master pump cylinder 2/14 - replaced
Belts cracked & Hoses weeping 2/14 - replaced all accessible belts and hoses
Tie Rod Ends 2/14 - first replacement of tie rod ends. 5/15 tie rod ends are failing again (leak in aftermarket power steering pump is causing he tie rods on the drivers side to lose lubrication and fail; second replacement
Leaking seals and gaskets
leak in oil pan 2/14 - diagnosis is unconfirmed, could be residual oil, unaddressed
leaking catalytic converter 2/14 - replaced, but sometimes still smells funky
leak in muffler 2/14 - replaced muffler, diagnosed a cat leak
leak in catalytic converter 2/14 - replaced, but sometimes still smells funky
Air filter, fuel filter, brake fluid, transmission Fluid 4/14 - replaced
Time to daily drive her 5/14 - sell my Mazda
Everyone needs a break in 8/4/14 - all my camping gear is pulled out of Merl on my birthday
Spark plugs 10/14 - replaced
Thermostat 10/14 - Merl overheats 3 times in a month. Replace thermostat twice that month.
Water pump 10/14 - linked to thermostat issues so we replace.
1/15 Drivers side door handle brakes 2/15 - replaced
Battery terminals corroded to failure 3/15 - replaced
Steering gearbox crunching 10/15 - rebuilt steering gearbox.
low side power steering lines 10/15 - replaced
Need a copilot 12/15 - we adopt 8 week old Arlo, a german shorthaired pointer, and he goes for his first ride
Dead cylinder (#5 compression tested at 94) 3/16 - top end rebuild. Been saving up for 3 years. 2 valves were bent. Replaced valve cover gasket, air filter and spark plugs. Leaking valve cover gasket is replaced.

New suspension ("leaf springs are "flat as a board") 3/16 - "front springs have "been carrying this old gal for a long time, rear axel is hitting springs when bottoming out". Replaced with 2" Iron Man kit
time for a new rack 4/16 - neighbor sells me his basket for cheap
OEM bumpers are sad 5/16 - replaced bumpers with a custom black rear and ARB front from a friend. Selling my original bumpers.
Tires cracking with rot and almost ready to replace 6/16 - upgrade to 33" BF Goodrich All Terrains
Alignment overdue 6/16 - alignment mechanic says "wow, not sure this truck has ever had an alignment, it was so out of wack"
6/16 power steering pump failure, truck overheats 6/16 - finally fails, replaced
6/16 Power steering belt and alternator belt 6/16 - replaced belts with pump
6/16 - power steering gearbox fails AGAIN 6/16 - redone AGAIN (guy at the shop apparently broke the rules by working on it and didn't do a good job - LCSP offers to redo)
8/16 window regulator drivers side fails again 10/16 - ordered replacements but appears to be a glue issue
9/16 notice power steering fluid leak on springs 10/16 replace lines and tighten clamps
10/16 brakes feel not right 11/16 - front brake pads at 15%, replaced
10/16 start the search for auxiliary lights 11/16 killer deal on Rigid LEDs from Edwin, need to install asap
11/16 Transmission mount torn 11/16 - replaced
11/16 Engine mount torn 11/16 - replaced
Lost antenna in a car wash in 2014 11/16 - finally replaced


And...there are a lot of other details to include, including lots of interior work, sources and minor upkeep, that I should add. I'll be adding and updating this as I can! Message me if you're curious how things netted out. More pics to come too.

 

[The Phoenician]

I was wondering about you the other day ( we briefly met at a light off 7th street a few years back, I have a red land cruiser). Glad your still own Merle are restoring it slowly. Keep up the great work and post up pics when you can.

 

[TejasMerl]

I was wondering about you the other day ( we briefly met at a light off 7th street a few years back, I have a red land cruiser). Glad your still own Merle are restoring it slowly. Keep up the great work and post up pics when you can.

Yes! Hi! It's been a while since I've been on Mud but lately I've been digging into the archives a lot more for tips so I thought I'd post back. Will share photos soon! Hope your red beast is running well!

 

[The Phoenician]

Yes! Hi! It's been a while since I've been on Mud but lately I've been digging into the archives a lot more for tips so I thought I'd post back. Will share photos soon! Hope your red beast is running well!

Can't wait to see the pics you post. Big Red is doing well, came back from a New Mexico vacation and I just got done changing its oil about 10 minutes ago, so she's ready for another long haul.