Meet Leila

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I was wondering what a reunion bearing was.... Not that I know what a truinion bearing is either. I do feel honored that you were responding to this thread in the midst of starting takeoff though.
I guess I'm off to google to learn more "stuff about cars". And here I thought I had a decent base knowledge from working on my old mini truck. All I ever did was pull out starters, alternators, and trannies; aside from the usual maintenance crap... back to the drawing board.

back from google...
I've seen those before. I remember my dad showing me how to pack grease into them back when I was in high school. I thought it was when we were doing a brake job though. I remember we had to bleed the brake line afterwards too. I think I would have called them wheel bearings. Same thing?
 
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DanS HJ-45 said:
... caused by hurriedly typing while we were getting ready to push back in Milwaukee. Dan
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is that during or after the copilot is said, "Please turn off all cell phones and electronic devices..." :lol:
 
BionicCruiser said:
is that during or after the copilot is said, "Please turn off all cell phones and electronic devices..." :lol:
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Our airplane has a robot who says that for the flight attendants. But that happens AFTER the door is closed. Care to guess whose job it is to tell them they can close the door?

"Folks, from the flight deck, we're just about ready to push back, as soon as I finish answering a question about Land Cruisers on the Internet. As soon as I can explain what a "reunion bearing" is we'll be on our way to Poughkipsie."

Becca: search for "knuckle rebuild" or "birf job" and you'll see bits about the trunion bearings. Different than the wheel bearings, but packed the same way. To replace the trunion bearings you will have opportunity to either repack or replace your wheel bearings. This would also be a great time if you need to update to large pattern knuckles and disc brakes. You pretty much have to break it down to the bare knuckles to replace the trunion bearings, and the knuckle job/birf job is just good preventive maintenance in general. It's a two day job--max. Can be one day (if you're as anal retentive as I am it's two).

Lord help us if We ever get wifi that works in the flight deck. :)

Dan
 
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Note to self: If you ever get to visiting all the states, DRIVE TO WISCONSON!
 
DanS HJ-45 said:
Becca: search for "knuckle rebuild" or "birf job" and you'll see bits about the trunion bearings. Different than the wheel bearings, but packed the same way. To replace the trunion bearings you will have opportunity to either repack or replace your wheel bearings. This would also be a great time if you need to update to large pattern knuckles and disc brakes. You pretty much have to break it down to the bare knuckles to replace the trunion bearings, and the knuckle job/birf job is just good preventive maintenance in general. It's a two day job--max. Can be one day (if you're as anal retentive as I am it's two).

Dan
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Yeah, Ron made fun of me for that post. whatever. I have a feeling it would take me 2 days regardless, simply because it is a new thing.... The first time always takes a lot longer than the rest. Of course I will have help from Ron, so maybe one day. Thanks for all your advice.
 
So Ron and I were testing steering components (incidentally it seems like almost all of the slop is in the steering wheel to steering box) and I went to get the brake fluid, because I noticed the clutch master cylinder reservoir needed fluid. Ron asked me - is there fluid on the inside of the cab? I bet you know where this is leading... So yeah. Leila will be getting a clutch master cylinder rebuild too. Luckily, this is familiar territory. It's been a long time, but it's familiar.
 
I can see the money floating out of the wallet.....
 
Becca said:
So Ron and I were testing steering components (incidentally it seems like almost all of the slop is in the steering wheel to steering box).
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As someone mentioned earlier there is a lash adjustment on the side of the steering box but don't expect a pre-1974 beast to steer like a later one, even if everything in the system is tight and adjusted. The different vintage boxes are radically different things.
 
Cruisergreg said:
As someone mentioned earlier there is a lash adjustment on the side of the steering box but don't expect a pre-1974 beast to steer like a later one, even if everything in the system is tight and adjusted. The different vintage boxes are radically different things.
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Yeah, we played around with it a little, but it started to get dark, and that's when we noticed the whole, "fluid running down the interior of the cab" clutch issue, so we pretty much quit at that point.

Aside from the possibility of narrower tires making a huge difference, I think I'm just leaning more and more towards power steering. It just feel dangerous to me. And if the vehicle doesn't feel safe, it isn't fun to drive, so she'll end up just sitting in our drive, which is not my intent. I'll try and fiddle with the manual steering some more before I give up completely, but my hopes are not high. I wish I had a comparison, but the oldest truck I've driven was my old 86 Toy (also not p/s) and it was fine, but on "normal" sized tires...

One thing I've been wondering; why go for "Saginaw" steering over just pulling the whole shebang from a Toy mini truck @ the junk yard? What's the difference? (I know I can probably find posts in the forum about this, so feel free to ignore me. :))
 
mini truck PS just replaces the box. all those rod ends and the center arm remains with their associated slop. a FJ60 or saginaw eliminates the center arm, and 2 rod ends.
 
BionicCruiser said:
mini truck PS just replaces the box. all those rod ends and the center arm remains with their associated slop. a FJ60 or saginaw eliminates the center arm, and 2 rod ends.
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Bingo. A Saginaw or 60 series swap removes the center link, and the drag link with it's two rod ends. It leaves you with just a relay rod with two rod ends between your pitman arm and the steering knuckle. Much, much simpler and less places to wear out and get sloppy.

Dan
 
DanS HJ-45 said:
Bingo. A Saginaw or 60 series swap removes the center link, and the drag link with it's two rod ends. It leaves you with just a relay rod with two rod ends between your pitman arm and the steering knuckle. Much, much simpler and less places to wear out and get sloppy.
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And the FJ60 relay rod has a wear adjustment on them, which is nice.
 
of course. i just cut the shaft just above the rag joint and put in a steering ujoint. you do need a pillow block and bearing to stabilize the shaft at the firewall. there should be tons of articles and how to's on mud and the interweb.
 
Wow, time flies. Just wanted to put in a quick update...
Ron put in the new Master cylinder for me one day when I was feeling yucky, so that was awesome. Clutches are nice to have. Makes shifting a heck of a lot easier.

We got the windshield in. The rubber ended up just being too damn big, so we cut it - still need to silicon caulk the seam, but it has glass now. We ended up ordering the template from SOR just to be sure (fyi, if any of you ever need a template for a pre-75 FJ 40, we have one you could trace :rolleyes:). The glass ended up being pretty frickin' close, so, after much discussion, we just cut the weather strip. It was OEM and the only option for this model 40, so I don't know what the deal is, but whatever. Now we can drive her on the streets legally.
Now we just need to shim the front and fix the fuel leak. Hahaha!
(I Know, I'm sure something else will pop up when that is done)
Ah well, one of these days I'll get her out of the city....
 
FYI-

The windshield rubber in that car was cut and siliconed when I bought it. It didn't leak but wasn't pretty. Maybe use black sealant? Wonder if the aftermarket rubber is made to fit a bunch of trucks and just doesn't fit the older ones just right? anybody know?
 
My experience with FJ40s is that there probably isn't one out there meets any specific factory spec for dimensions. Thr frames bend, twist over time. rust expands certain parts and the things weren't built by lasers, fercrissake. My first experience with this was years ago when I bought a soft top that should have fit, but the mesurements for my truck were a solid 3/8 " beyond fitting and no amount stretching would make it work. AFAIK the truck had never been wrecked, it just wasn't build to 21st century tolerances.
 
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