Maximized Attic Rack Usage

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Dissent

Questioning my life choices...
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Threads
265
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3,756
Location
Sweetwater, TN (East of Knoxville)
I've pulled the 18"x48" chrome bread rack shelf that acts as my attic rack spanning the 3rd row grab handle mounts out of the truck for some headliner wiring work. I am putting it back in this weekend but feel I'm severely under-utilizing it's space and functionality. I want to take full advantage of this space in an intelligent way and have seen some ideas out there but really want to take it up a notch. I'm trying to maximize the rear of my truck to make it as efficient as possible and to minimize packing for trips.

I'm already doing this:
  • Fire Extinquisher mounted horizontally along rear of rack with a quick release (may be moving to @NLXTACY D-Pillar mount one day)
  • First Aid Kit mounted underneath on driver's side of rack with a quick release (may be moving to @NLXTACY D-Pillar mount one day)
  • Paper Towels leveraging a bungee cord mounted horizontally along rear of rack
  • Quick Fists clamping my Firestick CB antenna stowed horizontally along rear of rack
  • Misc Hats, Umbrellas, 3 legged stool, jacket, etc. stuck up on top between the 3 ribs running the length of the shelf. These are support ribs when the shelf is flipped right side up for heavy loads.
  • AA powered LED work light mounted on top of rack along front edge providing rear seat lights for kids, can pull out for work light if needed. (MyLight HL000002 HUGlight Pro LED Hands Free Magnetic Task Light - - Amazon.com)
I've considered the following:
  • 2x Ozark Trail folding aluminum stools stowed underneath the shelf with some sort of quick release mechanism (Ozark Trail Aluminum Roll Top Camp Table - Walmart.com)
  • A heavy duty garage organizer shelf hanging down on the front edge behind the 2nd row seat, fastened and secured along the shelf and the sides acting as a cargo barrier. Could fold up along bottom of attic rack when not needed or for ease of access
  • Trash bag roll for quick access
  • Hard wired LED lights with switches for kids reading lights
  • Vertical sides secured to bottom edge of attic rack and secured to LCP Puma Mount on both sides to protect Puma and Water Bricks from cargo. Lots of area to strap Molle pouches and other stuff (rags, towels, dispensers for bags, etc.)
 
I picture of this current set up would be useful if your looking for additional Ideas.

From your description you seem to be working from the top down in your cargo area. I work from the bottom up personally. But I'm dealing with a large dog. Does not sound like you are. So our needs differ greatly. Most all of the items you've listed are stored under a platform in my truck. Most in bins that can be easily removed. I have considered building a "attic" over my fridge as that is somewhat wasted space. my dog is much too big to get on top of the fridge but that space does allow him additional head space.

Sham-less plug on my part, but it sounds like you should have some sort of barrier behind your 2nd row if you don't already. I'm your man for that.
 
Keep in mind your attic rack in on the same plane as you and your passengers head.

My rack 24x48 and is 100% full and no one item weights over ~1lbs keeping everyone safe if something bad was to happen. I carry a lot of stuff and keeping it in place under all condition is very important to me as it should be to everyone.

What ever you carry on your rack of any weight make sure it is very secure.
 
Only thing in my attic rack is SOFT goods, a couple wool blankets, a moving blanket, a couple towels, a rain jacket, winter jacket when not summer, a hat, couple pair of gloves. stuff like that..... I would not be putting heavy or hard stuff up there, mine is bolted into hand grabs for the 3rd row, with .188 steel brackets welded to the rack, so it will hold up a lot if I really needed it too....
 
I picture of this current set up would be useful if your looking for additional Ideas.

From your description you seem to be working from the top down in your cargo area. I work from the bottom up personally. But I'm dealing with a large dog. Does not sound like you are. So our needs differ greatly. Most all of the items you've listed are stored under a platform in my truck. Most in bins that can be easily removed. I have considered building a "attic" over my fridge as that is somewhat wasted space. my dog is much too big to get on top of the fridge but that space does allow him additional head space.

Sham-less plug on my part, but it sounds like you should have some sort of barrier behind your 2nd row if you don't already. I'm your man for that.

X100 on the Speski Barrier. Saved my noggin a few times.
 
Keep in mind your attic rack in on the same plane as you and your passengers head.

My rack 24x48 and is 100% full and no one item weights over ~1lbs keeping everyone safe if something bad was to happen. I carry a lot of stuff and keeping it in place under all condition is very important to me as it should be to everyone.

What ever you carry on your rack of any weight make sure it is very secure.

Very true, I've followed this rule for the most part. The heavy items, like the extinguisher are bolted to the rear. I've considered a cargo net to keep everything in place should a rapid deceleration event occur. :)
 
I picture of this current set up would be useful if your looking for additional Ideas.

From your description you seem to be working from the top down in your cargo area. I work from the bottom up personally. But I'm dealing with a large dog. Does not sound like you are. So our needs differ greatly. Most all of the items you've listed are stored under a platform in my truck. Most in bins that can be easily removed. I have considered building a "attic" over my fridge as that is somewhat wasted space. my dog is much too big to get on top of the fridge but that space does allow him additional head space.

Sham-less plug on my part, but it sounds like you should have some sort of barrier behind your 2nd row if you don't already. I'm your man for that.

No dog and I have a pic somewhere I'll post. I looked at your barrier but it's too permanent as the kids or I sleep back there now and then. Considering a cargo net but still looking at options.
 
Here's a pic of the rack installed from my Media folder. I have to upload one with the gear on it.
 
If you decide to add vertical side I have tons of 3x3 wire grid.

That may fit the bill perfectly. Let me get everything back in and get some measurements.
 
I just installed one of these.

Metro Wire Shelf, Drop Mat, 18x48, Black, Epoxy HDM1848Q-DBM | Zoro.com
They're also available in 21"x48" and 24"x48" in Black Epoxy. Sign up for their e-mails and get 15% off the list price. It shipped within a week, not even close to the ~month they state on the site to CTA.

As you can see, this model of Metro shelf doesn't have the big round corner-post braces, so it looks more sleek. I fabbed up some brackets, and will post pics later.

FYI, the first shelf arrived slightly broken; a couple of welds had broken loose when the parcel took some impact to the end during transit. I immediately provided images to ZORO and they're shipping a replacement at no charge and instructed me to "dispose of, recycle or keep the damaged one". So, I may find a way to fab temp mounts for that one as a cargo divider behind the front seats when I'm really haulling a lot of looser gear.

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I just installed one of these.

Metro Wire Shelf, Drop Mat, 18x48, Black, Epoxy HDM1848Q-DBM | Zoro.com
They're also available in 21"x48" and 24"x48" in Black Epoxy. Sign up for their e-mails and get 15% off the list price. It shipped within a week, not even close to the ~month they state on the site to CTA.

As you can see, this model of Metro shelf doesn't have the big round corner-post braces, so it looks more sleek. I fabbed up some brackets, and will post pics later.

FYI, the first shelf arrived slightly broken; a couple of welds had broken loose when the parcel took some impact to the end during transit. I immediately provided images to ZORO and they're shipping a replacement at no charge and instructed me to "dispose of, recycle or keep the damaged one". So, I may find a way to fab temp mounts for that one as a cargo divider behind the front seats when I'm really haulling a lot of looser gear.
I like those shelves better without the round corners and the center rib. I may have to swap mine out. I put @LandCruiserPhil's tire carrier back in and with my Ridgid boxes it's pretty tight underneath. I've also put some L-Track on the rear to store my LED lights when not in use so I'm still reworking this thing a year later! :p
 
I got my replacement shelf in the mail from ZORO. The finish is more textured like a powdercoat than the gloss black one that arrived damaged, and the spacing of the wires are a little different, but not so much that it required any changes on my mounting brackets. I did paint up the hardware before remounting the new shelf.

On a whim, I checked the sizing of the now-extra shelf as a headache rack to separate the cargo area from the front passenger area and I'll be darned if it isn't a perfect fit! A couple of velcro straps to the 2nd row grab bars and the front seat headrests and this thing sits very snug. Serendipitous!
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I got my replacement shelf in the mail from ZORO. The finish is more textured like a powdercoat than the gloss black one that arrived damaged, and the spacing of the wires are a little different, but not so much that it required any changes on my mounting brackets. I did paint up the hardware before remounting the new shelf.

On a whim, I checked the sizing of the now-extra shelf as a headache rack to separate the cargo area from the front passenger area and I'll be darned if it isn't a perfect fit! A couple of velcro straps to the 2nd row grab bars and the front seat headrests and this thing sits very snug. Serendipitous!View attachment 1545834 View attachment 1545838 View attachment 1545840

I really like the idea of these racks, but 6mm bolts in grab handle inserts screams inadequate to me.
Cargo barriers I have had anything to do with use much bigger hardware and bolt into plates fixed behind sheet metal to spread the load. They also use mounting brackets designed to stretch and absorb any impact so bolts don't shear off.

A hard metal rack loaded with multiple individual lightweight soft objects could still become a hard metal missile at head level if the combined mass moves as one item.
 
I added a vertical wall to the front of my metro rack cuz on steep descents and when stuffing jackets and pillows up it would fall thru the front. Now it's a lot better contained. I also anchored the whole rack to the 3rd row upper seatbelt bolt in the D pillar to make sure the whole shelf doesn't break free in an accident. I'd love a Speski barrier but it won't fit with my drawers in back so I might look into a custom Raingler net anchored from the grab handle down to the cargo tie downs.
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It appears it's not apparent to some how things get thrown around in a bad wreck, much less a rollover.
 
I got my replacement shelf in the mail from ZORO. The finish is more textured like a powdercoat than the gloss black one that arrived damaged, and the spacing of the wires are a little different, but not so much that it required any changes on my mounting brackets. I did paint up the hardware before remounting the new shelf.

On a whim, I checked the sizing of the now-extra shelf as a headache rack to separate the cargo area from the front passenger area and I'll be darned if it isn't a perfect fit! A couple of velcro straps to the 2nd row grab bars and the front seat headrests and this thing sits very snug. Serendipitous!View attachment 1545834 View attachment 1545838 View attachment 1545840

That's exactly what I envisioned doing, it measured out fine. Nice work!
 
I really like the idea of these racks, but 6mm bolts in grab handle inserts screams inadequate to me.
Cargo barriers I have had anything to do with use much bigger hardware and bolt into plates fixed behind sheet metal to spread the load. They also use mounting brackets designed to stretch and absorb any impact so bolts don't shear off.

A hard metal rack loaded with multiple individual lightweight soft objects could still become a hard metal missile at head level if the combined mass moves as one item.

I considered the same concerns, but came to the conclusion that the same hardware designed to support a 250# person hanging onto the grab bar should be adequate to support a shelf holding no more weight than the clothing said 250# person might be wearing on their body.
 
I considered the same concerns, but came to the conclusion that the same hardware designed to support a 250# person hanging onto the grab bar should be adequate to support a shelf holding no more weight than the clothing said 250# person might be wearing on their body.

You might be right? I honestly don't know.
I'm not sure grab handles are intended to support 100% of a person's body weight.

Static load vs dynamic load are completely different.

With a metal object levelled at your head, better to be cautious than headless.
 
Very true, I've followed this rule for the most part. The heavy items, like the extinguisher are bolted to the rear. I've considered a cargo net to keep everything in place should a rapid deceleration event occur. :)
If this rack runs front to back, I would also be concerned about the entire rack breaking off at the mounting points or near the weld points (it IS welded, not bolt-together, right?) in a severe collision--especially if something crushes or penetrates The rear hatch area, which is after all largely glass--and the entire rack with everything still attached turning the front seat into Sleepy Hollow…
 
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