Master clutch cylinder

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

GAS-A-LOT!

GAS-A-LOT!

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Threads
121
Messages
1,206
Location
LOS ANGELES
Website
www.destechservices.com
Went empty, added oil, and no pressure! No leaks but no pressure.

$80 for Aisin Master and Slave on Ebay.

$35 for Kragen auto parts with lifetime waranty.

Opinions? Dont have the cash right now for the Aisin's, What are your experiences with these?



Also, a reputable Power Steering pump rebuilder in SoCal?
 
Go Aisin, hands down.
I feel bad just walking in front of a Kragen, much less using their chitty products.

Did you bleed your clutch? That could be your problem, if you ran out of fluid, and now it's a no-go, bleed the clutch, and give it a whirl before you sink money into a new master.
 
bingo, that sounds like air bubbles in the clutch, almost like the weight of your foot forces it right to the floor, right?

To bleed it:
- Grab a friend, and a ratchet with a deep socket (I want to say 3/16ths is what I used on my brakes, but you'll have to figure it out through trial and error)
- Make sure the reservoir is full to the top
- one of you repeatedly pump the clutch pedal until you feel resistance
- the other climbs under the truck with the ratchet, and when the pumper says it's as good as it gets, have them force the pedal all the way down.
- Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, you will hear and feel the bubbles as they leave, it will hiss and gurgle, and what looks like dirty brake fluid slurpee will jet out.
- close the valve when the pressure dissipates (the slurpee will go away)
- repeat from step 2 again until no more bubbles escape.

Important:
Check the back of the master cylinder, right where it clears the firewall, this is the greatest location for MC failure; and if it's dying, you'll see fluid coming out from around the plunger. You can limp it for a while like this, but that's the big indicator whether you need to replace it.
 
you don't have to use a ratchet, in fact, I'm sure there are special tools for opening bleeder valves, but I like to think the ratchet and socket are a little more precise, and prevent damage from, say, a slipping wrench. But everybody here knows I'm crazy.
 
also look inside your truck under your clutch pedal and see if you have brake fluid there, if it leaks out the back it leaks in your truck. and if it was empty the fluid went some where. so my guess is the system is leaking somewhere.
 
Silly, silly people, we all know clutch fluid migrates for the winter!

Actually, Toy4XFun's right, it has to go somewhere, start looking inside the cab, at the back of the MC where failure is prone, also look around inside the engine bay, leaks will be obvious there, as all the paint will be peeled.
 
newb question...

Cant find leaks anywhere. If the slave leaks would it get into the trany?

I will try bleeding the system soon... Where I live, I'm not allowed to work on my car. Will have to do it mid day. ;)
Tnx.
 
sorry for the slight hijack. I'm replacing all my stuff now. Does anyone know what tubing and fittings are used. I was thinking it was the same as for the brakes. M10x1 using 3/16" line with a double flare. Thanks. Hijack over:D
 
Bad Coco said:
sorry for the slight hijack. I'm replacing all my stuff now. Does anyone know what tubing and fittings are used. I was thinking it was the same as for the brakes. M10x1 using 3/16" line with a double flare. Thanks. Hijack over:D
Click to expand...


Buy the factory parts from Toyota, they're not that expensive.
 
Finally done!!!

$38 at Kragen... life time... Yeah right.

had to cuzz bleeding did not work...

I plan to rebuild these.. Are there places? Or what kit am I looking for? I doubt I can get/mess with the internals. I would love to keep/salvage my OEM Aisin parts...

Regards
 
might indicate your slave cylinder was doing the leaking, since anything would just pour out onto the ground and leave no trace inside the truck.
Glad things worked out for you, though. Definitely rebuild your old one, and keep it around for spares, never hurts! IMO when Hammond's 40 lost it's clutch during the Top Gear Amazon Special, I'm pretty sure he just lost the hydraulic end of it, and a trail spare would have been useful. He also had a crappy pinion angle in the rear, but that's a different story.
 
Toyota does sell "cup kits" for both the master and slave. I never rebuild slaves anymore, I just don't think it's worth it (and I rebuild brake calipers, so I'm not being lazy about it). I put a new OEM slave on mine when I bought it in 2002, it's really rusty now, I'm just gonna toss it.

There is a very detailed procedure in the FSM on how to rebuild the masters, it's pretty easy. You need at least a vice on a bench to hold it. Be careful when you pull things apart so you can get them back assembled in the same order, sometimes it's not apparent. I highly recommend you pull your old one apart before you buy the kit, shine a strong flashlight up into the bore. You may find it so corroded and pitted that it's not salvageable, which is why the cups failed in the first place. Sometimes they can be saved with a brake hone.

If you're gonna toss it on a shelf or in the truck as a trail spare, put a thin coating of silicone grease inside the bore (I use a long Q-tip), to keep it from rusting while it's being stored.
 
I hope you have better luck w/ the Kragen lifetime master cylinder. I was changing 'em out on my '86 monthly.:mad: Finally got sick of it and went OEM and never had a prob since.:)
 
Ya, I was gonna mention that too, but it's probably too late now, you'll get the same education that a lot of us now have. Same experience with that "lifetime warranty" crap from AutoZone on a brake master several years ago. Couldn't get one to last more than a few months, and we all know how much fun they are to swap out, especially in the freezing cold.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom