manual hub conversion (1 Viewer)

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Not having the parts in front of me I'm at a disadvantage but I can't understand why the dial won't fit. Seems to me that spacing the assembly off of the hub by .27" is the correct thing to do.

Yes spacing the assembly will also work but I saw a couple of possible issues. One the studs may need to longer depending on how anal you are. By spacing the assembly you reduce the penetration of the index pin into the hub putting more stress on the studs. All in all spacing the assembly should be fine for most people and an easy way of dealing with it if the assembly spacer was available. But after spending too much time on this I feel the best set up is an addition groove in the birf. And while you have the birf on the lathe drill and zerk it for greasing. But I save that for another thread.:cheers:
 
So, LandcruiserPhil,
your opinion is to use a set of Warn hubs off a late model 40? What else needs to be done then? Just putting an additional groove in the birf for the circlip to sit in?
It sounds like that may be an easier way to go. I'm all for using Toyota parts, but I know Warn makes good hubs as well. Seems like it would be less of a headache that way. Not sure which way would be considered the "right" way to go with this.
 
Yes spacing the assembly will also work but I saw a couple of possible issues. One the studs may need to longer depending on how anal you are. By spacing the assembly you reduce the penetration of the index pin into the hub putting more stress on the studs.

I posted on this earlier as it needed to be worked out.
 
Question to all, is all this talk about spacing and cutting grooves on the newer style birf (93-97) or did they change the birf lengths for all 80 series to longer ones ? Landtank mentioned mine were a older style, maybe discontinued? If Im reading everything right, it seems that my set up would be ok because the shaft isnt hitting the dial. Im gonna take mine apart tommorow and snap some shots so we can compare.

Thanks
 
So, LandcruiserPhil,
your opinion is to use a set of Warn hubs off a late model 40? What else needs to be done then?
Warn hubs provide the necessary clearance needed for the snap ring. The Warn hubs will stick out further and some will baulk at. Spacing the snap is still needed FWIR. Warn hubs are also aluminum, read weaker but I can tell you from experience a Warn hub is cheaper the an 80 birf.
Just putting an additional groove in the birf for the circlip to sit in?
It sounds like that may be an easier way to go. I'm all for using Toyota parts, but I know Warn makes good hubs as well. Seems like it would be less of a headache that way. Not sure which way would be considered the "right" way to go with this.

IMO the best set up is an addition groove in the birf and Aisin hubs. You get strongest set up with the proper birf to spindle fit and you can always go back to the stock drive plates in minutes.

To add to the thread I hated the way my 80 drove with hubs.
 
Question to all, is all this talk about spacing and cutting grooves on the newer style birf (93-97) or did they change the birf lengths for all 80 series to longer ones ? Landtank mentioned mine were a older style, maybe discontinued? If Im reading everything right, it seems that my set up would be ok because the shaft isnt hitting the dial. Im gonna take mine apart tommorow and snap some shots so we can compare.

Thanks

If you have the original short birf it will work fine. You may have to shim slightly to keep the birf tight against the spindle but you have the clearance.
 
Cool thanks Landcruiserphil.
 
ouch so the man who has all the info, hates the way it drove with hubs:
To add to the thread I hated the way my 80 drove with hubs.

Something to consider I'm sure.
 
To add to the thread I hated the way my 80 drove with hubs.


Thanks for all the info so far. Great reading.

Would you mind going into slight detail what it was you didn't like? Was it the freeway behavior, or just the general change in handling? It also sounds like you have gone back to AWD. Any repercussions from the transition?
 
Thanks for all the info so far. Great reading.

Would you mind going into slight detail what it was you didn't like? Was it the freeway behavior, or just the general change in handling? It also sounds like you have gone back to AWD. Any repercussions from the transition?

I would suggest to anyone thinking of going to hubs to remove the front driveline and drive around for a couple days to get an idea of the drive ability.

My 80 would not be a great example with 37's, heavy with lift. But for me it was fun leaving from a stop it was like a trophy truck with front lifting a lot and the rear squatting. Steering was very lights and cornering was strange also when you throttled in a turn you get front end lift and more body roll..weird feeling. No notable MPG change maybe do to the trophy truck start from the light and attempts to spin 37's:D not easy even with a super charger and 4:88.

Just pull the drive line and give it try for yourself.
 
so in your opinion, does the truck behave the same with JUST the front DS removed as it does with BOTH the front DS removed and the hubs installed? It was my understanding the hubs added to the light feeling of the front end that you get from only pulling the front DS.

I've had my front DS out for some time now, due to vibes. No hubs, so I'm still turning the front birfs etc. It definitely handles and tuns a little differently, but I do not find it at all disagreeable.
 

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