Fine folks, I thought that I would supplement some of the radiator replacement posts where Ron Davis Racing (RDR) aka Man-A-Fre (MAF) radiators replaced the stock versions. Some thoughts in no particular order:
1. As always MUD comes through with wonderful advice - I essentially followed the path that others took with some variations for the safari turbo system. I found that it is indeed better to leave the left side bracket (USDS) on and remove the right side bracket (USPS) prior to removing the old radiator. I also found that its better to put the new radiator on the same way the old radiator came off with the left side bracket on and the right side bracket off - this helps to align things and it also saves some bumping around on the way in. I centered the left side brackets at the bottom and then I put the two "hidden bolts" in at the top and then I put the right side brackets at the bottom all of that loosely at first and then with the six main radiator bolts all torqued to 10 lbs. The RDR/MAF radiator is indeed a "bolt on" upgrade.
2. I used the bolts that MAF provided M8 x 1.25 x 12 for the top two shroud bolts but I found that they were too short for the main radiator brackets at the bottom and so I sourced some M8 x 1.25 x 16 which matched my measurements of depth of those threads much more than the 12's that were provided. Please note that you MUST use what was provided for the top two shroud bolts becuase anything longer wont sit right and could possibly harm the upper tank depending on if that captive nut closes off at the bottom or not. Anyway use the shortys on the top two and use nothing longer than 16's on the bottom end. I also used some loctite to give a little extra effort against loosening.
3. I tried to pay proper attention to the risk of hydrolysis and to that end I attached two ground straps from the radiator to the radiator support. I may add another two to the bottom brackets and connect to the frame somewhere where another captive nut is nesting. Right now my measured voltage is .303 volts. Not sure how low that can realistically go. Of course as always I thoroughly flushed the system with water and then filled with distilled water, circulated that a little and then drained and filled with 1 3/4 gallons Toyota Red and the rest distilled water so I was trying to reduce the electrolysis there as well. Please note that I'm not a nology maniac it was just that they had the braided aluminum wire with watertight see thru seal like I wanted. They happen to fit wonderfully well up top where I can so its not a bling thing as much as a practical fit to the purpose.
4. So far my measured coolant temperatures are approximately 2 degrees celsius lower in standing still traffic and 4 degrees celsius lower while moving. I have not had a chance to really push the rig but I will soon and will report the results. It is clear to me that this rad has more cooling capacity than my OLD stock rad. Of course it cannot be clear at all how it would work against a NEW stock rad. In any event I deliberately did not do anything at all to my otherwise brand new blue fan clutch just to maintain the scientific method and change only one variable at a time. My next measurements will be when pushing the rig as hard as ever and recording the results, then we'll tune the fan clutch and record those results. In any event the RDR/MAF radiator is really a wonderful work of art I hope you enjoy too.
1. As always MUD comes through with wonderful advice - I essentially followed the path that others took with some variations for the safari turbo system. I found that it is indeed better to leave the left side bracket (USDS) on and remove the right side bracket (USPS) prior to removing the old radiator. I also found that its better to put the new radiator on the same way the old radiator came off with the left side bracket on and the right side bracket off - this helps to align things and it also saves some bumping around on the way in. I centered the left side brackets at the bottom and then I put the two "hidden bolts" in at the top and then I put the right side brackets at the bottom all of that loosely at first and then with the six main radiator bolts all torqued to 10 lbs. The RDR/MAF radiator is indeed a "bolt on" upgrade.
2. I used the bolts that MAF provided M8 x 1.25 x 12 for the top two shroud bolts but I found that they were too short for the main radiator brackets at the bottom and so I sourced some M8 x 1.25 x 16 which matched my measurements of depth of those threads much more than the 12's that were provided. Please note that you MUST use what was provided for the top two shroud bolts becuase anything longer wont sit right and could possibly harm the upper tank depending on if that captive nut closes off at the bottom or not. Anyway use the shortys on the top two and use nothing longer than 16's on the bottom end. I also used some loctite to give a little extra effort against loosening.
3. I tried to pay proper attention to the risk of hydrolysis and to that end I attached two ground straps from the radiator to the radiator support. I may add another two to the bottom brackets and connect to the frame somewhere where another captive nut is nesting. Right now my measured voltage is .303 volts. Not sure how low that can realistically go. Of course as always I thoroughly flushed the system with water and then filled with distilled water, circulated that a little and then drained and filled with 1 3/4 gallons Toyota Red and the rest distilled water so I was trying to reduce the electrolysis there as well. Please note that I'm not a nology maniac it was just that they had the braided aluminum wire with watertight see thru seal like I wanted. They happen to fit wonderfully well up top where I can so its not a bling thing as much as a practical fit to the purpose.
4. So far my measured coolant temperatures are approximately 2 degrees celsius lower in standing still traffic and 4 degrees celsius lower while moving. I have not had a chance to really push the rig but I will soon and will report the results. It is clear to me that this rad has more cooling capacity than my OLD stock rad. Of course it cannot be clear at all how it would work against a NEW stock rad. In any event I deliberately did not do anything at all to my otherwise brand new blue fan clutch just to maintain the scientific method and change only one variable at a time. My next measurements will be when pushing the rig as hard as ever and recording the results, then we'll tune the fan clutch and record those results. In any event the RDR/MAF radiator is really a wonderful work of art I hope you enjoy too.
