Maintenance Things To Do To A New To Me 80

[914Runners Son]

Hello all, This is my first post here but I am by no means new to yotas.

My Dad has a '91 4Runner that we swapped in a 5VZ-FE (3.4L Taco motor), and it is riding on 32's.

I work on that alot for him and am now looking for my first truck.

I have always like the LC 80's and think one work work well for what I want/need in a rig.

So I was just wondering what kind of maintenance things I should to to a new to me 80?

I was thinking along the lines of:
New
- Battery
- Plugs, Wires, Dist Cap/Rotor? (are these things dist. or dist. less?)
- Airfilter
- Fuel Filter
- Change Engine Oil, Diff and Tranny/ T-Case Fluids (synthetic in diffs, tranny/ t-case)
- Clean Diff. Lock Actuators (plan on finding an 80 with diff. locks)

Is there anything else I should do at first?

The first things I will probably do to it would be:
- CDL Switch
- Dual Batts.
- 33's? (will these fit stock?)
- LightForce Blitz 240's or 170's
- Radio So I can wire in my iPod

Is there anythin else you would do?

I have been looking in the classifieds a little bit and it looks like 80's are going for about $10,000 to $12,000 here. Is that about the right price for an 80?

Sorry for such a long post with so many questions.

Thanks

 

[alaskacruiser]

Welcome! Check out Slee Off-road's site for lots of great info.

For a lot of your questions, checkout the Newbiew FAQ on his site at this link:

http://sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm

 

[OGBeno]

Welcome to the land of the enlightened...

Do an advanced search (above) under the words 'maintenance' or 'new 80' or some derivation thereof--limit your search to the 80's forum and you'll get tons of information...this has been discussed many times and there's tons of good information that can be had real easily.

That being said, your list is pretty good so far; I'd do the following as well:

-belts
-hoses
-birfields (and essential must0
-brakes


Best regards and again welcome...
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[Romer]

285 75 R16s will fit on the stock 80 (same as 33's)

You might consider a transmission fluid exchange (Not a flush)

 

[RavenTai]

To add to the stuff above

Get to know CruiserDan
Yes there is a distributor, so cap, rotor, plugs, wires, use OEM.
Obtain the Toyota service manual "FSM", the EWD and NCF are very handy also.
Relocate your diff T-case and Trans breathers http://george4wd.taskled.com/breather.html, or at least remove the evil flapper from the diff breathers.
Bleed the brakes at all 5 points
Replace power steering fluid (Dex III ATF)
Replace coolant, T-stat and PHH (pesky heater hose) test or replace fan clutch examine rad for gray sludge. Check for Head gasket problems.
Replace starter contacts and alternator brushes

 

[914Runners Son]

Thanks for all of the great additions to my list guys, this helps alot.

On the Fan clutch, does flex-a-lite (whatever thier name is?)make an electric fan for these? I would imagine it would be good to have for water crossings.

Thanks

 

[RavenTai]

Electric fans are not a good idea in an 80 IMO, they move less air than an engine driven fan not a good thing for a cooling system that does not have much cushion, especially off road when ram air speed is low and heat output of the engine is high.

Thermostatically controlled electric fans are great for highway use. When off they save gas, when running they are about the same drag on the engine as a direct driven fan.

 

[Beowulf]

914Runner
(I know some of this is redundant.... I did a copy/paste from another post)

On a "new-to-you" Cruiser you should get all the maintenance current.

0. Buy a FSM from C-Dan. Put his phone number on your speed dialer.
1. Baseline all the fluids. Oil, F&R diff, auto tranny, transfer case, PS, and brake fluid.
2. New OEM oil and air filters. Some would suggest the fuel filter but that's not as important as the others.
3. New OEM belts. Do NOT use aftermarket belts.
4. New coolant done properly. (There's plenty of posts on how to do this the right way.)
5. Check the brakes and if they need replacing....
... a. New OEM front rotors w/100 series brake pads on the front and stock rear pads.
... b. Repack wheel bearings at all 4 corners.
6. Check the front axle and have a complete front axle service done if needed. If you don't have records of a service having been done at 100k or so then plan to do this as soon as possible. The recommended interval is 60k miles; some push it to 90k if there is not a big leak at the back of the knuckles and no other issues (e.g. grease in the diff fluid.)
7. Grease driveshafts and U-joints.
8. Tune up (as you already suggested.)
...a. New plugs.
...b. New cap & rotor
...c. Test plug wires per FSM and replace with OEM (and only OEM) if out of spec.
...d. Replace the PCV with OEM and check for blocked hoses

When you're finished with the above you are now baselined and ready for 60k miles of trouble-free (hopefully) service from your new Cruiser.

-B-

 

[914Runners Son]

Electric fans are not a good idea in an 80 IMO, they move less air than an engine driven fan not a good thing for a cooling system that does not have much cushion, especially off road when ram air speed is low and heat output of the engine is high.

Thermostatically controlled electric fans are great for highway use. When off they save gas, when running they are about the same drag on the engine as a direct driven fan.

Ok, Thanks.
I had heard of people going into deep water with an engine driven fan and completely shreading it. So I figured an electric fan would be good becuase you can also wire it to a switch and turn it off for water crossings. But I could see them not moving enough air for a big cruiser.

Thanks for that list Beowulf.

Thanks

 

[JerryLX450]

Can anyone help me on this?
I been paying attention to all threads and discussion here GREAT 80 FORUM!
Im trying to do the basic maintenance by myself, so far i replaced the spark plug and wires. But then i have no clue to replace the cap and rotors and I did search but find almost nothing..
Maybe you guys be able to help me on this one how should i do to replace the rotor and cap?
Oh and would you guys let me know whether i bought the wrong or the right parts?

Many Thanks,

Jerry

 

[Beowulf]

Jerry,
You have the correct part numbers for your LX450.

Installation is straight forward. You remove the dizzy cap (19101-66010) and remove the wires going into it. It might help if you move the wires to the new cap but the cap is marked with cyl number. After you remove the cap, you remove the rotor. It pulls off; then you push on the new one; then you install the new cap.

1/2 banana if you have the right tools and don't have to remove the battery tray. I think an 8mm nut driver or small 1/4" ratchet works best (can't recall exactly.)

-B-

 

[perk]

This was the first wrenching I ever did (about 2 months ago), gave me the confidence to do the birfields. Very simple, unhook wires (plugs and coil) from cap, loosen the three bolts on the cap and remove cap (the bolts are part of the cap). Pull off rotor, and push on new one (it can only go on one way). Place new cap in position and tighten down bolts. Spark plug wire locations are numbered on cap, so matching them up is a brease.

Have fun
Perk

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

Just did this on the weekend as well. The top two bolts are a snap. The third one is on the bottom toward the rad. I agree with Beo, I found a 1/4" ratchet was just what was needed to break it loose - sort of a zen thing - close your eyes and do it by feel! I then used a screwdriver to back the bolt out.

Check and double-check the wiring (1:1, 2:2, etc) to make sure the plugs are in the right place.

Cheers, Hugh

 

[JerryLX450]

Thanks -B-, Perk and CDN_Cruiser.I'll try to replace the cap n rotors this Saturday.So basically the cap just push in right into it right? ( I mean the middle
part inside the rotor)Any other tip that I should know of?

Jerry

 

[Kalawang]

If you're not absolutely sure of the previous owners maintenance habits, change the timing belt. It doesn't cost much but it can cost you a whole lot of misery if it breaks.


Kalawang

 

[Tools R Us]

If you're not absolutely sure of the previous owners maintenance habits, change the timing belt. It doesn't cost much but it can cost you a whole lot of misery if it breaks.

You have a timing belt on yours? The USA spec '91 & '92's have gears and '93 - '97's have chains. I didn't know any 80's had belts?

 

[Kalawang]

You have a timing belt on yours? The USA spec '91 & '92's have gears and '93 - '97's have chains. I didn't know any 80's had belts?

You've amazed me as much. I do have a timing belt and am surprised you have chains. I have no problem with timing gears as they only make noise when they need to be changed, but chains ? Aren't those noisy and need frequent tightening ?


Kalawang

 

[RavenTai]

Chains can be noisy (start up rattle) but there is a spring/oil pressure actuated chain tensioner to take care of adjustment, once under proper tension no noise problem.

Kalawang what are you driving? I would have assumed an 80 since you are in the 80's section, witch engine?

 

[rtiqulatendisco]

Where do you all go for inexpensive OEM parts?

What is a FSM?

Thanks...new to a 97 450 as of last week.

 

[Gauge]

Where do you all go for inexpensive OEM parts?

CDan. He is a member on this Board. Look him up. Cheapest price for parts and no tax (as long as you DON'T live in New Mexico), but you do have to pay for shipping.

What is a FSM?

Factory Service Manual - You can get this from CDan. They also come up on Ebay from time to time.

Thanks...new to a 97 450 as of last week

Congrats! Post some Pics!