Maintenance before long trip

[stvrn6]

I’ve had my 97 80s for about 6 months now and I’ve driven it quite a bit. So far drives great. Almost fully loaded on 35s. I’ve driven about 700 or so miles, longest trips being a couple Hours. Well I’m planning a 1400 mile drive (2-way) soon and I wanted to get some Opinions on what else I should do maintenance wise. Here is the list of the things I’ve done.

oil and filter 208k (oem, rotella T6 15w-40)
Brake fluid flush, brake pads and rotors are still good
Valve cover gasket (oem)
PCV valve (oem)
ALL hoses
belts (oem)
ALL vacuum lines
Charcoal cannister (VC120)
Fuel filter (Napa gold)
Spark plugs (Bosch)
Spark plug wires (ngk)
Distributor cap and rotor (Napa gold)
Radiator (TYC)
Radiator cap (oem)
Water pump (AISIN)
Thermostat (oem)
Fan clutch (AISIN, modified 30k)
Oil pump seal (oem)
Front main seal (oem)
Tie rods (555)
Drag links (555)
Caster plates
Rear panhard bracket

Is there anything you guys would recommend I tackle before driving it this distance ? I’m thinking of doing a knuckle rebuild, gear oil and transmission fluid. I do have a small vibration from the front drive shaft due to the caster plates I have installed, feels minor but not sure if it’s a major cause for concern. Thank you in advance for the input!
Pics of my rig.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

This could escalate quick. If you have not baselined it yourself, it is good to do for peace of mind. Looks like a fantastic rig! A few things to consider….

Would check:

1) Brake soft lines replace of cracked
2) Pesky heater hose and replace if it have not been replaced
3) Heater diverter valve on firewall, replace if it looks brittle
4) Replace diff and transfer case fluid
5) Check and replace transmission fluid (do not flush)
6) Check birfield grease levels and fill if low
7) Check handbrake (cant see from visual inspection unless you remove rear rotors). Adjust if needed.
8) Keep a spare fusible link in your glove box or replace if yours is roached.
9) Go through and torque ALL undercarriage suspension component bolts, knuckle studs, shock bolts, brake calipers, lug nuts, etc
10) OEM air filter clean existing with compressed air or replace
11) Remove and clean diff breathers to make sure they work

Get OEM stuff for fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and Koyo radiator (better than TYC).

 

[devo]

For longevity and quality I would rethink not using OEM parts. Napa and Duralast parts are good in a pinch. For the million PM items needed you are on the right track.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Check the oil, check the coolant, check air pressure in tires.
Go drive 1400 miles. Enjoy

If you don't already have a way to read OBD2 data, and monitor engine coolant temps, it is cheap insurance to figure that out.

 

[Squash]

Just drove my hdj80 Sudbury Ontario to Whistler BC towing my M101 trailer.
Unless you have beat and or neglected maintenance I wouldn't worry.
Only difference is mine is a diesel 5speed.
I always check my my hubs with the tried and tested hand touch method at every fill up.
Doesn't hurt to check engine oil while fueling.
I carry a hub socket, enough tools and some grease. This is the third trip here and back within one year.

 

[devo]

Just wondering if the 15 of your 15/40 might be to heavy? I love the Rotella though!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Just wondering if the 15 of your 15/40 might be to heavy? I love the Rotella though!

Run it all the time on my truck. In TX.

 

[devo]

I run 15 in my 2F but not my 1FZ, and I’m not in Texas!

 

[cahill]

Only other thing to consider is that it is sometimes better not to do a bunch of maintenance right before a trip. Doing it a little while beforehand is usually better in case you messed something up and can catch it and fix it before heading out on a long trip.

 

[stvrn6]

This could escalate quick. If you have not baselined it yourself, it is good to do for peace of mind. Looks like a fantastic rig! A few things to consider….

Would check:

1) Brake soft lines replace of cracked
2) Pesky heater hose and replace if it have not been replaced
3) Heater diverter valve on firewall, replace if it looks brittle
4) Replace diff and transfer case fluid
5) Check and replace transmission fluid (do not flush)
6) Check birfield grease levels and fill if low
7) Check handbrake (cant see from visual inspection unless you remove rear rotors). Adjust if needed.
8) Keep a spare fusible link in your glove box or replace if yours is roached.
9) Go through and torque ALL undercarriage suspension component bolts, knuckle studs, shock bolts, brake calipers, lug nuts, etc
10) OEM air filter clean existing with compressed air or replace
11) Remove and clean diff breathers to make sure they work

Get OEM stuff for fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and Koyo radiator (better than TYC).

Thank you! I completely missed brake lines.

 

[stvrn6]

Only other thing to consider is that it is sometimes better not to do a bunch of maintenance right before a trip. Doing it a little while beforehand is usually better in case you messed something up and can catch it and fix it before heading out on a long trip.

Yes I agree. This is the stuff I've done in the last 4 or so months and driven the truck several hundred miles since and so far everything is running well. even got rid of the P0401 code.

 

[stvrn6]

Just drove my hdj80 Sudbury Ontario to Whistler BC towing my M101 trailer.
Unless you have beat and or neglected maintenance I wouldn't worry.
Only difference is mine is a diesel 5speed.
I always check my my hubs with the tried and tested hand touch method at every fill up.
Doesn't hurt to check engine oil while fueling.
I carry a hub socket, enough tools and some grease. This is the third trip here and back within one year.

View attachment 3769538

Nice rig! Im considering going to South America for a diesel 5 speed 80 series for the cool factor and MPG. What MPG are you getting?
Edit: South America because I want a left hand drive, don't want to deal with right hand drive.

 

[Mark W]

Nothing wrong with that list if all of that is needed (for example spark plug wire are an item that almost never need replacement).

But for a 1400 mile round trip... gas it and go.

Lots of people cover that much ground in a couple weeks of commuting.

Lots (including myself) find ourselves making 1000-2000 mile runs often times on spur of the moment (or when the GF just HAS to spend a couple hours in a specific spring fed hot tub at the end of the road somewhere).

Unless there is something wrong with your rig, it will eat 1400 miles and not even know it. Check the tires and the oil and go.

I AM partial to carrying a comprehensive tool kit and these days I also keep a tablet in the rig with appropriate FSMs for whatever rig I am driving downloaded. Especially if I am gonna be in the middle of nowhere much.

Mark...

 

[Squash]

Nice rig! Im considering going to South America for a diesel 5 speed 80 series for the cool factor and MPG. What MPG are you getting?
Edit: South America because I want a left hand drive, don't want to deal with right hand drive.

Pulling an M101 Cdn trailer 6 to 8 hours of driving per tank. Wind and snow will affect mileage. Truck was also loaded with gear, skis, chainsaws, and tire chains. Went west to help my son make firewood and of course some Alpine ski touring.
One random issue and a first for me was the big harmonic balancer nut came loose on the homeward leg after leaving Revelstoke, of course in a snowstorm!
Luckily I had the proper socket and big torque wrench. Locked her in low, chocked a tire with wood and cranked her tight.
Note: you lose charging and cooling if the nut loosens.
Thinking this was a good omen because I slowed down through Roger's Pass, till almost in Golden BC.
Left Whistler at 10:30 am Friday and in the door just before 8:00pm Sunday (4000km) single driver.