MAF control arm drop brackets

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Joined
Jun 20, 2003
Threads
3
Messages
71
Location
Encinitas
I'm finally getting my lift. I will be going w/851 and 860. I will also have 30mm packers so no stink bug. Even with all my gear I never carry much weight. No front bumper or winch. Because the packers will put me in the 3 inch range Steve O suggest control arm drop brackets instead of bushings. I am curious if anybody on here is using them and what you all think of them. Thanks in advance for any info.
Cheers
JP
 
Oh man I don't believe I did that. After lurking soooo long I should have known better.............. sorry.
 
JP,

There was extensive discussion in a prior thread. What summed it up for me was a side-view picture of Rick's 4" with caster plates, and a side-view picture of a truck with the MAF control arm drop brackets.

I'll try to find it but those pictures are worth 10 million words!!!

-B-
 
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Yes I found the search button and if I could kill my lame non searched post I gladly would. Plenty of info but I still haven't read it all or decided. Thanks.
 
HooDoo- If I were you I'd go with 850/860 (heavy front, medium rear) springs for "no stinkbug". Prior discussion concluded no difference in spring rates between 850 and 851, just longer spring. I have this spring combo with an ARB in front and no stinkbug, no spacers.
 
look for a post by 4wdtoyotaowner.
its all there.
Dave
 
I think they are the worst design for off road driving. Heck they don't even look good for the street.
 
Slee caster plates= No clearance compormised
 
here's some MAF photos

Tthere is no doubt that the Man-A-Fre setup costs some clearance. But it also drives perfect (no wander, no driveline vibration, pinion angle is fine).

Further, check the photos below--we wheeled Cruise Moab in our MAF-equipped 80, and did just fine on Poison Spider, Hell's Revenge, and Golden Spike. If it can handle twelve hours on Spike, then I'm happy with it.

Photos here:

http://www.4wdtoyotaowner.com/FZJ80.html

Dave
 
the clearnce issue isn't as bad on the 3" cause you don't drop the rear, and the fronts aren't as volnerable.
 
No doubt you hit a lot.
 
4WD Toyota Owner Magazine said:
Tthere is no doubt that the Man-A-Fre setup costs some clearance. But it also drives perfect (no wander, no driveline vibration, pinion angle is fine).

Further, check the photos below--we wheeled Cruise Moab in our MAF-equipped 80, and did just fine on Poison Spider, Hell's Revenge, and Golden Spike. If it can handle twelve hours on Spike, then I'm happy with it.

Photos here:

http://www.4wdtoyotaowner.com/FZJ80.html

Dave


Dave,
Did you ever find the bolt you lost?

:grinpimp:
 
:flipoff2: Ah!!! I'm reminded of the classic line from a classic movie, "The Breakfast Club"...

--Where's that screw, Bender?

--It fell out of the door.

--The only screw that's going to fall out around here is you, Bender.

It's inhabiting the sands of Spike. But I DID get through the whole trail after I put the replacement in. The value of Loc-Tite, yet again...

BTW Kevin you're in the upcoming issue...:cheers:

Dave
 
Further, check the photos below--we wheeled Cruise Moab in our MAF-equipped 80, and did just fine on Poison Spider, Hell's Revenge, and Golden Spike. If it can handle twelve hours on Spike, then I'm happy with it.


Dave[/QUOTE]

Dave,

I think you may have hit the nail on the head with your description right here. Driving on the highway and on moderate to easy trails is a good application of the drop brackets. I have a feeling if you would have been with me on Pritchett or Rusty Nail you would have been cursing those drop brackets. I know you would have been severely hung up in some spots on Pritchett. My frame rails and skid plates have a lot of sliding marks, the bad part is your brackets would have most likely been hung up.
 
With 3" front drop brackets the lowest points are really your front control arms . As a matter of fact, your control arms will have more sliding marks then the brackets. Most of the time, going forward, you don't get hung up on those arms, you slide on'em due to the lowered position, that's my experience. Now going backward can be slightly different scenario :D. General consensus is: those brackets are good for road driving and mild wheeling. And I agree 100%. For rock crawling, you just have to work a little more until the inevitable what ever that may be ;). Now, aside from all theories, facts and criticism, I can't wait till I get those control arms from Christo. Those brackets are more mental blocks then any thing else, for me.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Dave, did you ever resolve this? https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=90846 Was it dreiveshaft related, or diff related.

Hi Christo,

Definitely diff related. I put in all new Toyota u-joints, then had the shaft balanced, and while I was driving back from the shop with the shaft ut I heard the noise, so I knew it wasn't the shaft. I ended up driving 1077 miles to Moab and back again without the front driveshaft in!

I'm tearing it apart Monday to see what the heck is up in there.

Dave
 
ginericfj80 said:
Further, check the photos below--we wheeled Cruise Moab in our MAF-equipped 80, and did just fine on Poison Spider, Hell's Revenge, and Golden Spike. If it can handle twelve hours on Spike, then I'm happy with it.


Dave

Dave,

I think you may have hit the nail on the head with your description right here. Driving on the highway and on moderate to easy trails is a good application of the drop brackets. I have a feeling if you would have been with me on Pritchett or Rusty Nail you would have been cursing those drop brackets. I know you would have been severely hung up in some spots on Pritchett. My frame rails and skid plates have a lot of sliding marks, the bad part is your brackets would have most likely been hung up.[/QUOTE]

Hi Eric,

You're probably right--I haven't wheeled Pritchetts yet, but from photos and descriptions, it sounds like trouble.

BTW, you too are in the upcoming issue! :cheers:

Dave
 

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