Maaco?

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Jay-

Jay-

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 12, 2007
Threads
108
Messages
509
Location
Norcal, not on fire but it was darn close.
So far I got $3500 estimate for paint job in redding, lol ahahah,
All I need is a "cute" FJ40 with paint that will hold up in the garage for a decade and occasional use.
I never wanted a $25,000 FJ40. Just a pretty nice head turner. I have the body work already done and every thing taken off the frame (Tub left on) minimal rust that we are working on and no dents or body work needed at all!

A guy told me that Redding Maaco did not do a bad job on his two trucks.
Plus the added benefit that my 40 is blasted to metal, no paint what so ever, and no rust!

I actually don't want a $3500 paint job that is going to see a little camping and brush use and trails every summer.

Or paint it at home with my drunk neighbor?

Yeah id like to join the local vintage car club but Id also like to actually take my rig to the river with out fear of the first scratch because the paint cost as much as the FJ40!
 
Noo maaco.
Spend the money on a quality epoxy primer, quality topcoat materials, and paint it with your drunk neighbor, just get in the 'zen' zone. Have fun with it and don't start any fires... Keep the paint gun clean clean clean, the paint well mixed. i presume you are using a HVLP set up?
 
I say DIY, that way you will have the tools and paint to do your own touch ups when you take you r truck to the woods. As long as it looks good from 10-20 feet!
 
On my 4runner soon I am going to do EVERYTHING but spray the truck. Find a body shop that will take the prepped truck and spray for cash.

They won't warranty the work as far as unseen dents or overspray on a molding that wasn't completely masked. Painting isn't as easy as it looks.
 
Anyone ever try Valspar John Deere/Blitz Black on their 100? If so, please post pix. Somewhere down the road, after I get my ARB bumpers, I'm considering that satin/matte look of the Blitz Black.
LX470 - Revo 285-75.webp
 
If doing it yourself the flater the color the better. Ive seen great results with a rattle can. rustoleum flat kaki is the goods
 
I say do it yourself. Get good materials-especially when it comes to a clear coat. Put on a ton of coats of clear, that will resist scratches well and scratches will buff out. Also, consider putting bedliner on the edges of the fenders. Another trick-when bolting the body together, a 40 has no gaskets on the front end body assembly between the fenders and front clip parts. I use plasti dip on those surfaces to act as a thin gasket. Makes for a nice thin rubber gasket to prevent metal to metal contact which causes rust.
 
I got the first estimate for an already dissembled FJ40 (Frame on) and already blasted.
The local pro paint shop guy said $1300 for primer, I think its 13 parts actually. And this is done in his house garage with no special setup, just a light and a gun!

I had to pass, that's the bulk of my paint money.

Is primer be the most easy part?
 
Hi! I had REALLY good factory gutters. My paint guy said he sanded them down. We both decided to keep the gutters on because the seam sealer was perfect, no rust on gutters or rivits.

The fiberglass is holding up. but its been 3 weeks in storage shed and now look at the gutter.

Can I just hand sand that before It goes to macco? My goal is to look perfect.
My tech said it would be fine and to hand sand it a little before painting but now the gutters and its 100% of the gutters!

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Do the work yourself. Read up on paint prep and watch a few youtube videos - there's a wealth of great info on the internet. Buy a good HVLP gun, air compressor and buffer, then get after it! I did just that for my old Bronco when the paint on the front fenders and hood began flaking badly. I built a paint booth in the driveway and shot it one afternoon. Sounds like you have the difficult prep work already done, so invest a few hundred dollars in the extra equipment you'll need and have fun. My Bronco was my first paint work and it turned out pretty nice - it still needs a little more wet sanding to get all of the peel out of the paint but I was really happy with it!



I recently got a MIG welder and am delving into sheet metal repair on our rusty 62 that we recently purchased from a friend! It's actually pretty addictive work!!
 
Iv been reading a few hours now about the Eastwood Master Blaster- they are super cheap.
I was budgeting $900 to have my FJ40 dustless blasted from the tub to the inside of the fenders. Everything removed plus two rust pockets on the rear tail lights.

Im totally dreaming if I put that $1000 into my own blaster even a cheap one from eastwood?
 
My experience with Maaco is that there are an awful lot of variables. First is that specific franchise - they owner and his employees make all the difference in what level of work is done. But even if you find a good franchise, there are pitfalls there too. Typically, the advertised prices are for some pretty low end materials. Which brings me to my final point - they’ll pretty much nickel and dime you to death on the options. Better materials? That will be $$. Even better materials? That will be $$$$. Repair work before painting? More $$$. Sand the existing coat rather than just wash it well? More $$$. And so forth...
 
So I think to buy a good gun for my drunk neighbor who has painted for 25 years in a haphazard way might be best. He drinks all the time he works and is disabled. Iv seen his work its bad but I think if we do it CONTROLLED at my house with top of the line guns its the best, hell he can sand the drips yes? 50 coats of gell coat?
 
I think getting a decent gun and painting it with your neighbor is the way to go, These trucks don't need a showroom shine paint job. If your going flat you can sand out runs and buff them with a pad but you will always see it, they aren't as easy to remove as a gloss job where you can buff.

Seal bare metal with epoxy primer 2 coats, do your bondo and filling. Use a surfacer and get the body straight then hit with single stage flat or satin paint.
 
I think my body is 100% straight. two rust pockets on the rear lights, one front fender replaced with a new one and I'm getting it glass bead blasted. They say it wont warp the thin sheets. So I hope for bondo free (Little rust under drivers side floor)

Just as soon as the rain stops:

1. Take smalls and doors to blaster and get totally sanded.
2. Come home to my plastic covered garage and use an etching primer.
3. Store in shed
4. Tow my FJ40 (Tub on) stripped down to the blaster, have it blasted and bring it home.
5. Paint body with primer.

Can this last out 2 weeks while we paint each part with a gun?

My other option,

1. Blast body and hood and fenders and smalls inside and out.
2. Primer and paint flat gray or tan.

Reassemble

3. Use as convertible and build the top all at once the week after.
 
I would opt for epoxy primer over the etching. Epoxy primer gives you a waterproof seal, other primers allow moisture to pass through it. You have a week window on most epoxy primers to shoot but you can scuff and re-shoot anytime.
 
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