LX570 wheel well "adjustments" for 35s

[nwfl4runner]

Nice visual. Looks about right to me. What's dem goofy looking Michelin's you got on da front?

What suspension mods do you have on the front? Total Chaos and? No spacer currently? Yeah, you'll need/want those.

Up front just TC arms right now. Going to add the 10mm OEM shock spacer and Spidertrax 1.25” spacers. Then going to try and decipher the height offset tools to give just a TINY lift over stock.

 

[radman]

Then going to try and decipher the height offset tools to give just a TINY lift over stock.

pifffshh.. It's easy

 

[tbisaacs]

Up front just TC arms right now. Going to add the 10mm OEM shock spacer and Spidertrax 1.25” spacers. Then going to try and decipher the height offset tools to give just a TINY lift over stock.

is that an ARB base rack?

 

[TeCKis300]

@JadeMonkey , how did she do at LCDC? Where you happy with the tire size and performance? Any further wheel well adjustments?

 

[nwfl4runner]

is that an ARB base rack?

I wish, just the standard Aluminium flat rack.

 

[JadeMonkey]

@JadeMonkey , how did she do at LCDC? Where you happy with the tire size and performance? Any further wheel well adjustments?

She did great at LCDC and really well on the highway for the ride home as well. I'm super happy with everything so far. Trails were great and some obstacles I thought were going to be tough we got through with no issues. I still get a little bit of random rubbing every now and then when pulling out of my driveway and occasionally when turning a sharper corner at low speeds. Need to find some time to take the wheels off to see if I can find where it's rubbing and what needs to be adjusted to fix it. Life has just been crazy recently with work, personal stuff, and other vehicle projects.

Even if I had to live with the occasional minor rub (which I think should be a fairly easy fix) I would go with these tires again in a second based on my current experiences. They've performed beyond my expectations both on and off-road and they still make me smile every time I walk up to the LX.

 

[tance]

Up front just TC arms right now. Going to add the 10mm OEM shock spacer and Spidertrax 1.25” spacers. Then going to try and decipher the height offset tools to give just a TINY lift over stock.

Hey, so I want 295/65r20 K02s. From what Im seeing I think I’ll to do a senor lift and get 1.25 spacers. Is there anything else Ill need to do to prevent any rubbing? Will those fit in the spare tire space?

 

[nwfl4runner]

Hey, so I want 295/65r20 K02s. From what Im seeing I think I’ll to do a senor lift and get 1.25 spacers. Is there anything else Ill need to do to prevent any rubbing? Will those fit in the spare tire space?

After putting it on up front and cycling I decided to go another direction (275/80r17 on rock warriors) because of the amount of interference.

I cleared the UCA with spacers, and believe I cleared the body mount in the rear (barely). You will have to trim most of the front fender liner away, relocate/move the fender liner at the top of the wheel, cut away most of the metal/plastic where the mud flap was, and I think you may have to massage the fender at the top on full bump. I didn’t feel like making my own inner fender liner for what I was gaining.

Sensor lift won’t give you actual clearance, it will just mask where it is NOT clearing by moving it further away.

New wheels (+50 offset instead of +60) and some skinny tires (10.8 vs 11.X) gave me 34”+ height with just removing the rear mud flap and moving bottom of the front fender forward/heat gun combo. And that’s full clearance at bump, shock removed, lock to lock.

 

[TeCKis300]

The amount of work involved with a 295/65R20 (35.4" spec diameter) tire, or categorically a "36", would indeed take that much more effort. I tossed it around in my mind and took some measurements. Ultimately decided against it but it would not be impossible for the motivated. There's a certain awesomeness in stuffing this amount of tire without bracket lifts and such.

Beyond what I documented here for my 35x12.5s

They keys to 36s would additionally require
- Body lift - 1/2" body lift would be required to avoid significantly cutting of the wheel well liners, at front. But also rear which is metal. Stock body bolts should be reusable as they have about that much additional thread. So just some 1/2" shims of which could probably buy a kit meant for the 100-series. May need to play with the radiator hood positioning, steering rack universal, and shifter. Totally doable and would only be a weekend job.
- Optimal offset would be +25-30mm for scrub radius

 

[tance]

The amount of work involved with a 295/65R20 (35.4" spec diameter) tire, or categorically a "36", would indeed take that much more effort. I tossed it around in my mind and took some measurements. Ultimately decided against it but it would not be impossible for the motivated. There's a certain awesomeness in stuffing this amount of tire without bracket lifts and such.

Beyond what I documented here for my 35x12.5s

They keys to a 36s would require
- Body lift - 1/2" body lift would be required to avoid significantly cutting of the wheel well liners, at front. But also rear which is metal. Stock body bolts should be reusable as they have about that much additional thread. So just some 1/2" shims of which could probably buy a kit meant for the 100-series. May need to play with the radiator hood positioning, steering rack universal, and shifter. Totally doable and would only be a weekend job.
- Optimal offset would be +25-30mm for scrub radius

Thank you both for the write up. Ive been looking more and more into it and I think Im going to go 295/60R20, I know thats considerably smaller than what I mentioned but I dont have a garage right now so Im going to go with minimal effort for now.

 

[nwfl4runner]

I think you’ll clear the UCA with a spacer. Pretty sure it’ll rub without