- Thread starter
- #41
As promised here it's the YouTube video I made documenting the process on the design and mock up.
LX570 Bumper Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter soccernut
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Nicely done, subscribed.
I think the bumper looks good, I also question the decision to not integrate a winch at this point.
Suggestions on the video: need a remote mic, can't hear you, and i would tone down the music a little. Loved the time lapse.
I think the bumper looks good, I also question the decision to not integrate a winch at this point.
Suggestions on the video: need a remote mic, can't hear you, and i would tone down the music a little. Loved the time lapse.
One recommendation - design the mounting plates (where you mount the bumper to the frame) such that you can thread a rod through the frame and into the mount. The mounting plate on the frame for the bumper is just fine for the stock aluminum crash protection, but when you add 100+ pounds and bounce around on bumpy roads it's a lot of stress on that spot. Running a bolt through the mounting plate helps pull the entire assembly in towards the frame, rather than just relying on the strength of the plate and the welds.
FWIW my bumper does NOT have this, and while I did reinforce the welds and gusset the plate, it still makes me uncomfortable enough that I squat down and check the welds a few times per year just to make sure there's no cracking. I did buy some ~8" grade 8 J-bolts that I was going to use to hook into the frame opening (where kits like ARB or TJM have a threaded block) and then drill a hole in the plate and bolt it through, but they're too long to slide in once the bumper is mounted.
FWIW my bumper does NOT have this, and while I did reinforce the welds and gusset the plate, it still makes me uncomfortable enough that I squat down and check the welds a few times per year just to make sure there's no cracking. I did buy some ~8" grade 8 J-bolts that I was going to use to hook into the frame opening (where kits like ARB or TJM have a threaded block) and then drill a hole in the plate and bolt it through, but they're too long to slide in once the bumper is mounted.
- Thread starter
- #44
Great call, I'll have a look around and see what I can come up with.
If you figure out a good "long bolt/rectangular threaded nut plate" options similar to what Ironman/ARB/TJM/Metaltech etc sell let me know - I'd be interested in retrofitting my setup at some point, just for peace of mind
- Thread starter
- #46
My immediate thoughts were to build an extension of the mounting plate down to the location where the recovery points are (right under the plate) and box it up.
Those bolts are as heavy duty as they get.
Here is the best illustration i can come up with
I would still try to thread through the plate to the frame, if you can, mainly due to leverage, but the lower recovery point bolts would definitely be better than nothing
- Thread starter
- #48
That might be a little too advanced for my fabbing skills. I'm gonna keep an open mind to it and see if I can come up with something more practical.
Are you describing a pin left to right, behind the horns? That joins the two horns together?
So the bracket would have depth toward the back of the truck, along the frame, (or better yet "cap" the end of the horn) and then get pinned a few inches back?
It's the rectangular bar with a set of threads tapped in it along with a ~10" threaded rod that I'm thinking of. The rod/bolt goes through the center of the mounting plate for the bumper an inside the frame. This bar slides through the frame flat (there are 2 holes - one on either side) and then you turn it 90 degrees.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Are you looking to make one? Seems like you could make something substantially similar with a hunk of mild steel and some all-thread rod. Drill a hole and tap it, use whatever tools you have handy to shape it - mill, plasma cutter, angle grinder, files, whatever you have handy.
- Thread starter
- #52
The bumper cover is odd shaped and would be very hard to create something that goes up that far. Most builds and aftermarket bumpers do the same thing.
- Thread starter
- #53
PART 2 IS UP
Yes. But if I could just buy a pre-made hardware kit from someone who has already done it, I'd prefer to go that route.
- Thread starter
- #55
Yes!!!
Back from the welder last night. Spent the afternoon grinding it. Then primer. Still have to paint it tomorrow.
So happy with it so far. I must admit. I was really apprehensive about the whole thing. I was worried that I would mess it up, but I was patient and measured and re-measured to make sure things line up. That said, I am a little off on a couple of spots but nothing you can catch without a tape measure.
To do:
- couple coats of paint
- install the parking sensors.
- wire and install the lights
- trim and install various guards behind the bumper
- cutting the bumper cover to size...that still scares me.
Back from the welder last night. Spent the afternoon grinding it. Then primer. Still have to paint it tomorrow.
So happy with it so far. I must admit. I was really apprehensive about the whole thing. I was worried that I would mess it up, but I was patient and measured and re-measured to make sure things line up. That said, I am a little off on a couple of spots but nothing you can catch without a tape measure.
To do:
- couple coats of paint
- install the parking sensors.
- wire and install the lights
- trim and install various guards behind the bumper
- cutting the bumper cover to size...that still scares me.
Best tool for cutting the bumper plastic is one of those oscillating multi-tools. It leaves a fuzzy edge but is easy to control and easy to cut. Scissors leave a clean edge but hard to make some cuts.
- Thread starter
- #57
I am planning to use a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. Hope that works well
I also have a plastic u- shaped strip that I'm planning to place on the edges I cut
That looks really nice.
Worst case with the bumper cover is you buy a replacement and have it re-painted. They're not that expensive (relatively speaking). Since you don't have a template to work from, I'd recommend cutting a bit less than you think you need and then trimming it a second time to get it how you want. Either way any edges you can slide behind the bumper instead of having it meet up with the top edge will look better - and if you do that then you will actually want a bit more hanging below the bumper lip because the body and bumper will move independently on bumpy roads and if it's a tight fit the bumper cover will pop out
If you feel the need to reinstall headlight washers, you can buy the small hood-mounted ones. You just need a one-way valve inline to keep the washer fluid from pouring out as the factory headlight washer assembly has it built in. That said while I did just because I could this ultimately I never use them, nor do I know many folks that do, so you may not care.
BTW the only thing I would've done differently is to put a set of square Rigid fog lights in the middle section (like mine has). They are super bright but have a really nice cut-off that makes them SAE-compliant. If you find you want the extra light though you could cut them out later since they have a plastic lip which would cover the cuts
Worst case with the bumper cover is you buy a replacement and have it re-painted. They're not that expensive (relatively speaking). Since you don't have a template to work from, I'd recommend cutting a bit less than you think you need and then trimming it a second time to get it how you want. Either way any edges you can slide behind the bumper instead of having it meet up with the top edge will look better - and if you do that then you will actually want a bit more hanging below the bumper lip because the body and bumper will move independently on bumpy roads and if it's a tight fit the bumper cover will pop out
If you feel the need to reinstall headlight washers, you can buy the small hood-mounted ones. You just need a one-way valve inline to keep the washer fluid from pouring out as the factory headlight washer assembly has it built in. That said while I did just because I could this ultimately I never use them, nor do I know many folks that do, so you may not care.
BTW the only thing I would've done differently is to put a set of square Rigid fog lights in the middle section (like mine has). They are super bright but have a really nice cut-off that makes them SAE-compliant. If you find you want the extra light though you could cut them out later since they have a plastic lip which would cover the cuts
I think you'll have a hard time getting that to cut straight, and the high speed will just melt the plastic and make a mess.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Nice job. I'm super impressed that you just went and did this. It looks a ton better than I would expect someone to do in their home garage without custom fabrication experience. I'd still be dithering about what material thickness to use, and here you are with a fully functional bumper. Nice!
