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Question for the group - is the valve in the bottom of the AHC tank self-sealing? Meaning if I take the tank off the pump with the fluid still in it, will the fluid stay in the tank?
 
Question for the group - is the valve in the bottom of the AHC tank self-sealing? Meaning if I take the tank off the pump with the fluid still in it, will the fluid stay in the tank?
I can’t see how. Fluid flows in and out of the reservoir. Emptying the reservoir from the top with a pump is fairly straightforward.
 
Got the AHC tank and pump removed, disassembled, and cleaned. Pump was nasty but as others have found, the internals were in great condition. Here are some pics to add to the collective experience. The only thing I noted was that the outboard end of the gearcase had both an oring and what appeared to be a fibrous or possibly metalic gasket. Also, therer was a connector that joins the motor shaft to the main gearshaft that I didn't see in other photos. Otherwise it went pretty smoothly, and parts came out of the washer spotless. Reassembly was unremarkable. I agree with the camp that says the slave gear orientation is inconsequential, as the gears are symmetrical and the free floats in groove which it sits.

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Pump face with connection shaft
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Sans connection shaft
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Gaskets that sit on the outboard end of gear casing
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Location or corresponding parts of all other orings
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Lots done today. PS pump installed and system flushed. I went ahead and swapped out the feed and return hoses, and I will say that the 3/8" gates oil cooler hose was too tight on the reservoir nipple. Not sure what was up with that, I probably should have just used standard bulk hose instead. (5/8" gates fuel line worked fine for the supply line)

AHC reservoir reinstalled, new globes installed, and fluid flushed. Also got the factory roof rack removed, prepping for full length rack install tomorrow.

After that will be the last of the fluid flushed (engine oil and 3 diffs) and then hopefully actually get this rig on the road!
 
As long as you have a master key you can add and delete keys with Techstream. If no master on 03+ you can reset the immobiliser onboard using Techstream. A passcode is required. It is generated from a 96 character seed code provided by the ecu. You also need a passcode calculator, or use the one online.
Good morning Mauer, I bought my 100 series with a viper security system, and I’ve had it for about four years. Now the viper system has gone bonkers in the vehicle starts by itself. I had the viper system removed and the keys that I received when I bought the truck, do not start the truck. It cranks but no gas to keep it running. If you read my post, the dealer says they can’t help me, they tried to program the keys, but they doesn’t work. they said I need a new PCM. They tried to program the keys but they couldn’t. One key is a Toyota key, but it doesn’t have the unlock, lock or panic button Just the key. I saw on YouTube where this guy got information from ”i8mud” to program his key to the car and it worked his first try. Do you think if I was to get from the dealer, a new key with fob with the lock unlock button and panic button and try to set the key the way the video shows do you think that would work?
 
Sorry, I forgot to attach the full quotes.

PLRod, thanks for the offer, I'm going to source new parts for the build though.

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You may want to check for OEM parts on lexuspartsnow.com I just recently purchased a 2003 LX 470 and am doing some similar work. but unfortunately previous owners removed AHC :( Anyhow I purchased ne Upper and lower Control arms, CV axles and various seals and gaskets between the diff to the knuckle which are being worked on now. Take a look at the site and i think you'll see cv axles are 370 last i looked. reboot on mine with 200k i considered but after taking them out i'm going new and i'll likely never need to do them or it will be a long while. I plan to tackle the Timing belt, water pump, Fan pulley, clutch soon. Again I think those prices on parts alone are quite high. the Aisin timing belt kit, fan pully and clutch can be purchased on amazon for about 450 and there are other posts in this forum speaking to the quality of them and the links as well.
 
Good morning Mauer, I bought my 100 series with a viper security system, and I’ve had it for about four years. Now the viper system has gone bonkers in the vehicle starts by itself. I had the viper system removed and the keys that I received when I bought the truck, do not start the truck. It cranks but no gas to keep it running. If you read my post, the dealer says they can’t help me, they tried to program the keys, but they doesn’t work. they said I need a new PCM. They tried to program the keys but they couldn’t. One key is a Toyota key, but it doesn’t have the unlock, lock or panic button Just the key. I saw on YouTube where this guy got information from ”i8mud” to program his key to the car and it worked his first try. Do you think if I was to get from the dealer, a new key with fob with the lock unlock button and panic button and try to set the key the way the video shows do you think that would work?
If the keys would start the engine before they should still match the code in the ecu. It sounds to me like something was not hooked back up when the alarm system was removed. I would look at the antenna connection for the immobilizer. Behind the ignition switch.
 
I hit a snag with the AHC system - vehicle is currently bottomed out and not going up. I think the lines are probably air locked. I can't hear the pump running but after watching the height indicator just blink for about 30 seconds I cracked the bleeders out and each one spit out air before any fluid came out. I also re-bled the (?) actuator on the driver's side but got nothing out there. I'll get back at it again tomorrow - I'm guessing I just need to pump, bleed, repeat a bunch of times. Will keep everyone updated

Also, I gave up on trying to install a new barb for the PCV vacuum line. I can't quite figure it out but there are baffles inside the air intake that prevents me from getting to that area. So if I can't access the back side, there's no way I'm gonna cut threads and then send all the plastic into the valves. Another day (and likely another intake manifold lol). For now, PCV will vent to atmosphere. I'll be curious to see if I start seeing any leaks from the RMS.
 
Oh, I forgot to mention. If anyone has ever wondered "will a roof rack from a gen 5 4 runner fit an lc100/lx470?" the answer is yes. The width of perfect. It requires some custom bracket work, the easiest is a 6' long section of slotted steel angle. The holes even line up pretty well too.
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The rough idle at 2k RPM has been bugging me since we got the truck. It is subtle but I'm a stickler for that stuff so I investigated today. First thing I did was check spark plug torques - low and behold cylinder 6 plug was loose. I'm guessing that's why the ignition coil looked like this...
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Tightened it down and the vibrations at 2k RPM are gone.

Note that this was after a dealership did a compression test! I will say it again - DO NOT TAKE ANY VEHICLE TO AUTO NATION TOYOTA IN ATLANTA. I hate s*** posting but damn, this is just not ok. Looks like it's time for new coils and plugs!
 

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