LX470 oil change

[phxtlc]

Ok well ill shoot for only 4-5k miles then with this thai denso filter. Ill either get a good supply of the 20004s or find somewhere to get the Mobil filters.

Phxtlc, i just moved to new ro two weeks ago, grew up in rye. Lived up near the corner of oakland beach and the post road by osborn school practically my whole life. Dont know if you are familiar with the area much, but do you know the gulf station near that intersection? Thats where i get my oil changed, hah...trying to make this comment somewhat related to the topic.

BTW there's a great site if you google oil filter comparison. (I'm at work or I'd link it) the guys rips apart 20 or so filters and compares them. I used the Toyota one and I'm even more impressed with the Mobil 1 so far.

I know just where that station is. Speaking of stations I always wanted the one right in town that has the old style overhang (by the library) Where is New Ro did you move?

 

[Tinkerer]

<snip>

For oil, if you are using a 30 weight oil, use the Mobil 1 5w-30. I pumps better at lower temperatures and is the same thickness at operating temps. There is no practical difference between the 10w-30 and 5w-30 in terms of durability or sludging.

I originally used dino 5w-30. Switched to Mobil 1 5w-30, and it resulted in cold engine startup valvetrain noise. Mobile 1 10w-30 solved that problem. Cold starts no problem around here, but min winter temperatures rarely get below 10-15 deg F. Fuel economy: 17-18mpg mixed city/hwy.

AFAIAA, one reason 10w-30 is preferred (vs. 5w-30) is that in general, the closer cold-hot viscosity rating numbers implies less percentage content of Viscosity Index Modifier additives. Less VIM additive means less VIM breakdown over the service interval, which means viscosity performance does not degrade as much over the service interval.

In fact, I read somewhere that synthetic oil with closer cold-hot viscosity rating such as 10w-30, may actually have NO VIM additives, since synthetic requires less VIM additives than dino in any case. NO VIM additives = a good thing.

 

[cary]

AFAIAA, one reason 10w-30 is preferred (vs. 5w-30) is that in general, the closer cold-hot viscosity rating numbers implies less percentage content of Viscosity Index Modifier additives. Less VIM additive means less VIM breakdown over the service interval, which means viscosity performance does not degrade as much over the service interval.

That was true when base stock oils were group I and the VI improvers were garbage, but things have come a long way since then. One of the big deals with Mobil 1's Supersyn was it had a VI that was in the thousands, so very little is required compared to normal VI improvers.

Keep in mind that 0w-40 and 5w-40 are the primary grades used in Europe now. UOA's of cars like the Porsche Cayanne running an 18k interval on the 0w-40 show no shearing issues and great wear numbers. Same goes for most of the 0w-40 reports (including my 9k interval in a 80). The bottom line is high weight spreads are simply not an issue for modern synthetics.

 

[Tinkerer]

That was true when base stock oils were group I and the VI improvers were garbage, but things have come a long way since then. One of the big deals with Mobil 1's Supersyn was it had a VI that was in the thousands, so very little is required compared to normal VI improvers.

Keep in mind that 0w-40 and 5w-40 are the primary grades used in Europe now. UOA's of cars like the Porsche Cayanne running an 18k interval on the 0w-40 show no shearing issues and great wear numbers. Same goes for most of the 0w-40 reports (including my 9k interval in a 80). The bottom line is high weight spreads are simply not an issue for modern synthetics.

Any links to relevant reports etc. ?

 

[cary]

Any links to relevant reports etc. ?

There are about 100 UOA's of the 0w-40 on BITOG as well as my and others UOA's posted here.

 

[NMuzj100]

Just dissected a 90915-YZZD3 Toyota OEM filter and was pretty impressed. Very well made bypass and quality anti-drainback. Lots of what appears to be a high quality filter media with a metal core. I have not taken apart a Mobil1 yet so no head to head comparison yet. I would not hesitate to run 10-15k with it. Outside of Fram filters with cardboard end caps I haven't heard of many filter failures.

Anyone here know how to distinguish between silicone and nitrile antidrainback valves ?

 

[1loudLX]

thanks NM...your truely committed us here at 'mud. Good to know someone has cut open my filter and checked it out.

 

[sprale]

From what I have been reading, I will probably lean toward the -YDZZ3 filter and the M1 10W-30. My 03 GX470 is the wife's vehicle. She drives it less than 5k per year, so it doesn't get run hard every day. Spends its days here in Central Texas. Any opinions to the contrary?

My daily ride is a 250 bike. I would rather get a new one of these every few years and keep the GX in top shape for a few decades. It is really the nicest vehicle I have ever owned, didn't think I would say that after a Land Rover.

 

[Jim_Chow]

From what I have been reading, I will probably lean toward the -YDZZ3 filter and the M1 10W-30. My 03 GX470 is the wife's vehicle. She drives it less than 5k per year, so it doesn't get run hard every day. Spends its days here in Central Texas. Any opinions to the contrary?

My daily ride is a 250 bike. I would rather get a new one of these every few years and keep the GX in top shape for a few decades. It is really the nicest vehicle I have ever owned, didn't think I would say that after a Land Rover.

I would use M1 0w40 over M1 10w30. I've used both along w/ M1 5w40 delvac (commercial) and Shell Rotella T syn 5w40. The M1 10w30 gave the lowest fuel economy, M1 0w40, M1 delvac 5w40, and shell rotella T 5w40 give 5-10% better mpg's (the 3 gave results on par with one another; only the WalMart M1 10w30 gave lower mpg's, on par w/ dino 10w30/10w40, and this was for all vehicles). For the record, I use the M1 delvac ($28/gal) w/ -20004 filter in the LX, M1 0w40 ($26/gal) in the prelude and crv (honda oil filters), and rotella T syn 5w40 in the old beater 4 cyl 4runner w/ YZZD3 filter ($14/gal, WalMart). I run a 7.5K mi OCI w/ the M1's and 5K mi OCI w/ the Rotella T.

 

[sprale]

Cross-posting GX oil change

I hate posting to different forums, but shodog over at the Club Lexus Forums posted a detailed oil change thread for the GX. Getting the skid plate off was tripping me a bit.

GX470 oil change

 

[Dandon]

From what I have been reading, I will probably lean toward the -YDZZ3 filter and the M1 10W-30. My 03 GX470 is the wife's vehicle. She drives it less than 5k per year, so it doesn't get run hard every day. Spends its days here in Central Texas. Any opinions to the contrary?

My daily ride is a 250 bike. I would rather get a new one of these every few years and keep the GX in top shape for a few decades. It is really the nicest vehicle I have ever owned, didn't think I would say that after a Land Rover.

That's because you haven't owned an LC100 /LX470 Else your GX would be the second best.
BTW, there's no need to remove the skid plate, or even to put it on ramps, in order to change oil and filter on an LX470 or a 100 with AHC.

 

[Texasoil]

Oil is so cheap. A major benefit of more frequent changes is the probability of saving the engine if something has gone amiss like a leak, or water pump seep, or belt crack, etc. Visual inspection of stuff will find vast majority of failures B4 they happen.

 

[SWUtah]

Oil is so cheap. A major benefit of more frequent changes is the probability of saving the engine if something has gone amiss like a leak, or water pump seep, or belt crack, etc. Visual inspection of stuff will find vast majority of failures B4 they happen.

How about the old fashion way? Check your oil everytime you filler up with gas???

 

[Jim_Chow]

How about the old fashion way? Check your oil everytime you filler up with gas???

Nah. Then you'll suffer the disgrace of admitting a fine piece of engineering like the 100 drinks oil like domestics. The 100 doesn't burn any oil if it's been properly maintained. I run 7.5K mi OCI's w/ M1 delvac 5w40 and still can't detect any difference in the dipstick level at 72K mi.

 

[SWUtah]

Nah. Then you'll suffer the disgrace of admitting a fine piece of engineering like the 100 drinks oil like domestics. The 100 doesn't burn any oil if it's been properly maintained. I run 7.5K mi OCI's w/ M1 delvac 5w40 and still can't detect any difference in the dipstick level at 72K mi.

I agree, I check mine about every 400 miles and I have never seen any oil useage. But I check it because I am old and thats how I was taught

 

[Brock]

reviving old thread....but sure was nice to be able to lift LX470 to HIGH setting on suspension to crawl under for oil change.

 

[super90]

I'm sure the Yota filter is great, but I've been using the Napa Gold purchased at Fleetfilter.com for the past several years on my FZJ and just bought a dozen for the UZJ. They run about $3.80 ea. plus shipping. Still less than $4.75 to my door. I change my M1 every 5k mi. Never a problem with the FZJ and the UZJ is far easier on the oil.

YMMV

 

[cstu]

M1 0w-40 would be my first choice. The truth is that the 2UZ-FE engine is very easy on oil, every used oil analysis posted on bobistheoilguy from this engine has been fabulous, regardless of the oil used. If you can't find the 0w-40, then Mobil 1 5w-30, or 0w-30 are both good choices. Use factory toyota filters and change at 10k mile intervals and don't look back.

This will be my first oil change in my new-to-me LX so I want to make sure I do things right from the start...

I'm leaning towards M1 0w-40 but I can get M1 5w-30 for half the price. I don't mind paying extra for the 0w-40 if it's worth it and just want to put the best oil in it. I was even considering M1 5w-30 Extended Performance but I may be over-thinking it. I'm in Los Angeles.

 

[NMuzj100]

If you want to over-think it spend some time on www.bobistheoilguy.com.

Otherwise these are good choices

- M1 5w-30
- M1 5w-30 SUV (slightly thicker at operating temp)
- M1 5w-30 EP (for extended OCI - Oil Change Interval)
- M1 0w-30 (for cold starts - probably no benefit in LA)
- M1 10w-30 ( fine for LA too)
- Any other API SM approved 5w-30 at standard intervals

Good oil filters include

- Napa Gold
- Toyota OEM
- WIX
- M1
- Purolator PureOne

 

[Nottajeep]

I like the Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-30.
It's the thickest 5w out of the M1 lineup.
HTHS= 3.4

Although it's only a SL category oil, my owner's manual for the 99 recommends API SJ or higher.
Plus Mobil puts some seal conditioner "magic" in the oil to keep my leaks down.