LX470 no power when pushing on gas pedal (2 Viewers)

[smwmustang]

Hey guys, looking for some things to test or replace. At 250k I don't mind replacing things that probably need to be replaced but I do need some help.

My son told me a couple of weeks ago that when he pushed the gas the car was not accelerating very well. We have had many reports of bad gas in town the last couple of months so we put some sea foam in and no more problems until today. He brought it back home as he was unable to get it going and limped it back home under very little power. It seems to go into drive as normal and move under its own power at idle like normal.

I am sure the fuel filter is probably original but it does have newer coils and I believe a TPS sensor that is about a year old. It also had new cats about a year ago since they got stolen but the O2 sensors may not have been replaced. They were still connected as they only cut out the cats.

Anyone else diagnosed this problem before and have any ideas.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Sounds like a coil pack, see if there's a CEL or pending code.

 

[smwmustang]

Sounds like a coil pack, see if there's a CEL or pending code.

I will check for codes, but normally in my experience a coil pack causes loss of low end power and not just no power when pushing on the gas pedal. I will definitely have any codes read as well but the coil packs are less than a year old, however one could have gone bad. I will add this to the list...I have a tester to see if one is bad. THANKS

 

[2001LC]

Yr, miles?
Checking for DTC (codes), is always a good first step.
Bad gas can result in low fuel flow, due to clogged gas filter. Checking fuel trims may be helpful.
Any work performed, in past 12 mo's ~5K miles, should be noted.

Last good tune-up, and what was done, with what parts and where from?

 

[smwmustang]

Yr, miles?
Checking for DTC (codes), is always a good first step.
Bad gas can result in low fuel flow, due to clogged gas filter. Checking fuel trims may be helpful.
Any work performed, in past 12 mo's ~5K miles, should be noted.

Last good tune-up, and what was done, with what parts and where from?

Sorry, I guess I did leave out some details.

99 LX with 250k
Since it just happened this morning I will take it to get the codes read but always check here first. My guess is one of a couple of things:
1. fuel filter - prob original and we have had issues with bad gas in town
2. trans fluid

About 6 months ago I had front and read drive shafts, front axles, hubs and brakes as well as rear brakes too. I know I had my 100 trans and diff serviced but not sure on the LX - my mechanic stole from me so I will not be contacting him unless its to arrange a meeting in the Back 40. If he did service the trans and diff it may have not been done correctly. Last tune up was about 2 years ago with all new coils and plugs I believe as well as we had the cats done since they were stolen. Not sure about parts as my mechanic always ordered the parts. He did my work for 15 years and then fell on hard times I guess. Should have just asked me for the money and I probably would have helped him out. Now I have no idea what was really done or not other than visually seeing the new parts.

 

[HokieCruiser]

My money is on low tranny fluid...I just recently had the same issue

 

[Land Shark]

My money is on low tranny fluid...I just recently had the same issue

IF so easy enough to check that

 

[HokieCruiser]

You could unscrew the drain plug on the trans pan and see if anything comes out, if no then there's your problem.

 

[3_puppies]

does the engine RPM increase when pressing on the pedal?
or is there no movement of the rig in gear?

 

[smwmustang]

does the engine RPM increase when pressing on the pedal?
or is there no movement of the rig in gear?

I am going to drive it myself to see. I asked, but he is 18 and although very handy helping with the LX and 100, probably not enough experience to know the difference. Kind of like when a coil pack goes out, you pretty much know from now on what it is based on prior experience.

IF so easy enough to check that

For sure before 03 I believe since it has a dip stick.

Just stopped by house to check trans fluid and i checked it twice and this is how it registered cold. I am assuming this might nit be normal.

 

[2001LC]

No power, when pressing on gas pedal. Wherein, RPM do not go up. Is very likely engine issue. These almost always set off a DTC. (code)

When check transmission fluid, cold. Did you: Make sure to wipe off dipstick and then reinsert, then remove again and check level. Keeping tip, pointed down?

Also look at both side of stick, read side with lowest level.

Sorry, I guess I did leave out some details.

99 LX with 250k
Since it just happened this morning I will take it to get the codes read but always check here first. My guess is one of a couple of things:
1. fuel filter - prob original and we have had issues with bad gas in town
2. trans fluid

About 6 months ago I had front and read drive shafts, front axles, hubs and brakes as well as rear brakes too. I know I had my 100 trans

So that, we're on the same page:
"100" The 1998-2007 Land Cruiser (LC) and the Lexus LX470 (LX) are both 100 series.
"trans" We say automatic transmission (AT). AT fluid (ATF), is check while idling, on level ground with ATF at operating temperature ~160F.
"trans" We say transfer case (TC, T-case)

and diff serviced but not sure on the LX - my mechanic stole from me so I will not be contacting him unless its to arrange a meeting in the Back 40. If he did service the trans and diff it may have not been done correctly. Last tune up was about 2 years ago with all new coils and plugs

Bootleg coils & plugs, fail ~10K to 20K miles. They will set CEL (check engine light) and a DTC (Code) P0300 - 08.

I believe as well as we had the cats done since they were stolen. Not sure about parts as my mechanic always ordered the parts. He did my work for 15 years and then fell on hard times I guess. Should have just asked me for the money and I probably would have helped him out. Now I have no idea what was really done or not other than visually seeing the new parts.

 

[smwmustang]

No power, when pressing on gas pedal. Wherein, RPM do not go up. Is very likely engine issue. These almost always set off a DTC. (code)

When check transmission fluid, cold. Did you: Make sure to wipe off dipstick and then reinsert, then remove again and check level. Keeping tip, pointed down?

Also look at both side of stick, read side with lowest level.


So that, we're on the same page:
"100" The 1998-2007 Land Cruiser (LC) and the Lexus LX470 (LX) are both 100 series.
"trans" We say automatic transmission (AT). AT fluid (ATF), is check while idling, on level ground with ATF at operating temperature ~160F.
"trans" We say transfer case (TC, T-case)

Bootleg coils & plugs, fail ~10K to 20K miles. They will set CEL (check engine light) and a DTC (Code) P0300 - 08.

So codes will probably help, but yes i wired the stick clean 3 times and checked it twice. It appears it is way too much. I will drive myself tomorrow and see how it does and check fluid again while cold and hot as well as have codes run.

 

[2001LC]

So codes will probably help, but yes i wired the stick clean 3 times and checked it twice. It appears it is way too much. I will drive myself tomorrow and see how it does and check fluid again while cold and hot as well as have codes run.

Did you test drive yet. How did RPM behave, when gas pedal pushed:
While parked, RPM go up normally?
While driving, RPM drop or go up?
Any DTC when codes read?
Any fluid leak seen on AT or TC?

AT is very overfilled.
Someone messed up. The fluid looks good. So not "likely" some other fluid mixed in AT. But if I understood correctly. This 99 LX, AT has not had any recent AT service. Like an ATF drain & fill or full 12 qt flush.
So how did so much fluid get in the AT?

• How is it, it looks like new ATF at 250K miles?
• What was put in the AT? (When we don't know, we need to flush it)

Who put that much fluid in AT?
If it was your mechanic. Then, ANY work he's done, is suppect. I'd be looking at every vehicle he touched, any everything he put his hands on, and every parts and fluid is now suppect.

Anyway:
Once codes read. To, see if any thing may need attention.

While engine cold, check coolant and oil level.

Drain the AT pan, leaving drain plug out for 5 minutes only. Measure ever drop that comes out. If is was at normal level, you'd get about 3 qts out. If you get ~4 to 5 qts, this would confirm overfilled. Screen the drained ATF, through a coffee filter or something, to check for debris.

Add 2qt. ATF back into AT, through dipstick. I use Mobil 1 multi vehicle ATF (M1 MV ATF).

Bring engine up to operating temp. Shut down, wait 5 to 15 minutes and check engine oil level again. We want to know your coolant and engine oil are at proper levels also.

Now we know coolant and engine oil levels okay, and ATF level likely 1/2 to 1 qt low.

Take out on test drive. If power and RPM seem okay. I'd then do a full 12 qt flush.

Automatic Transmission Fluids (ATF) full 12qt flush & set level, 100 series.

Automatic Transmission Fluids (ATF) full 12qt flush, 100 series. Park on level ground. Set E- brakes and chock (block) tires. Drain ATF from Automatic Transmission (AT) pan, by removing the 14mm drain plug and washer (gasket). Yields ~3 qt. (assumes, at factory set level) from cold...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[smwmustang]

Did you test drive yet. How did RPM behave, when gas pedal pushed:
While parked, RPM go up normally?
While driving, RPM drop or go up?
Any DTC when codes read?
Any fluid leak seen on AT or TC?

AT is very overfilled.
Someone messed up. The fluid looks good. So not "likely" some other fluid mixed in AT. But if I understood correctly. This 99 LX, AT has not had any recent AT service. Like an ATF drain & fill or full 12 qt flush.
So how did so much fluid get in the AT?

• How is it, it looks like new ATF at 250K miles?
• What was put in the AT? (When we don't know, we need to flush it)

Who put that much fluid in AT?
If it was your mechanic. Then, ANY work he's done, is suppect. I'd be looking at every vehicle he touched, any everything he put his hands on, and every parts and fluid is now suppect.

Anyway:
Once codes read. To, see if any thing may need attention.

While engine cold, check coolant and oil level.

Drain the AT pan, leaving drain plug out for 5 minutes only. Measure ever drop that comes out. If is was at normal level, you'd get about 3 qts out. If you get ~4 to 5 qts, this would confirm overfilled. Screen the drained ATF, through a coffee filter or something, to check for debris.

Add 2qt. ATF back into AT, through dipstick. I use Mobil 1 multi vehicle ATF (M1 MV ATF).

Bring engine up to operating temp. Shut down, wait 5 to 15 minutes and check engine oil level again. We want to know your coolant and engine oil are at proper levels also.

Now we know coolant and engine oil levels okay, and ATF level likely 1/2 to 1 qt low.

Take out on test drive. If power and RPM seem okay. I'd then do a full 12 qt flush.

Automatic Transmission Fluids (ATF) full 12qt flush & set level, 100 series.

Automatic Transmission Fluids (ATF) full 12qt flush, 100 series. Park on level ground. Set E- brakes and chock (block) tires. Drain ATF from Automatic Transmission (AT) pan, by removing the 14mm drain plug and washer (gasket). Yields ~3 qt. (assumes, at factory set level) from cold...

forum.ih8mud.com

Ok that's a lot to digest as I do not know a lot of answers as unfortunately I trusted a mechanic for many years and in the end I guess he was taking short cuts.

Here is what I do know today:

I checked the fluid cold again this morning and it read the same as yesterday. I have attached a photo. Also is a photo of the oil which is almost clean as new and full as the truck does not burn any oil at all.

Also, I included a photo of AT fluid when HOT and it appears to read where it should. I believe there is an overflow plug I guess I could pull when hot and see if any fluid comes out....not sure if that is the correct way to do it but thought I saw it somewhere.

I drove the car about 10 miles this morning with no issues. RPM's rev as they should, nothing ever stuck and transmission shifted as it should. It did have a check engine light and it was for an O2 sensor that has caused issues ever since the cats were stolen.

Just guessing, but could the fuel filter cause a similar issue if it gets clogged or the TPS? I will drive it home another 10 miles this afternoon and see how it does.

1st pic is at the HOT level when HOT. 2nd is this morning cold and 3rd is OIL

 

[smwmustang]

Ok so I have to apologize as I realized on the way home yesterday I was completely checking the ATF fluid when cold completely wrong. I am pretty smart but sometimes not so much. I checked the ATF fluid again this morning cold the CORRECT way and it is fine. I know, a total waste of time on that issue.

However, I still have not gotten it to have a loss of power like my son has described and everything shifts normally so far. I am going to go ahead and change our the fuel filter as it look like it might be original and that is pretty easy to do. I am not sure it is what it needs, but until I get it to mess up like when he is driving I will just take it step by step and keep driving it the rest of the week.

I will update and thanks for all the info and I apologize for the confusion on the ATF.

 

[GerLC100]

Just to make sure: you're having the engine running when checking AT fluid right?

 

[smwmustang]

Just to make sure: you're having the engine running when checking AT fluid right?

Well I did this morning. Completely forgot the other two times and while driving home yesterday I had and OH @#$% moment and realized my mistake. I knew better but was so focused on trying to figure it out, I just skipped that small really important step.

 

[GerLC100]

ok, so engine oil and AT fluid look good.

My thoughts:
- while in gear: engine RPMs go up, power doesn't end up on tires? --> torque converter?
- while in neutral: RPMs go up properly?
- Have you ever had the feeling on hills/ when towing/ under higher load you don't the acceleration? Would lead me back to the next 3 points
- take out MAF, clean, put back in
- change fuel filter and check
- Fuel pump?

Others:
- Coil packs/ ignition coil... hhmm, should vibrate at lower RPMs right? do you have this?!?
- same behavior in all gears?

 

[baltistyle]

You mentioned it had a code for an O2 sensor? Is this past tense or current? Before you said you thought the sensors were old and never replaced. If it was current and you did just replace it that could explain why it’s running correctly for you?

 

[3_puppies]

are you sure he wasn't pressing on the brake pedal versus the gas pedal?