LX just rolled in - a few questions

[BRob2756]

97 LX just came to town - what an awesome truck. Mark took excellent care of it - can't say enough nice things.

As it is my first cruiser, had a few questions.

-Seems to start a bit rougher when hot than when cold. When cold, starts right up. When hot, seems to take just a second longer and have a rough feel. Smooths out almost immediately. Any thoughts?

-I use to run 15W-40 Rotella in my old Wagoneer to keep from leaking everywhere and I though the higher milage engine may like the extra Zinc and other additives. If I wanted to run something thicker for a LX with 209k on the clock, what visc. should I be looking at? It does leak oil but not too bad.

-Have looked at a few threads concerning the factory radio. Know I want to replace along with speakers. I have seen a lot of threads on the head unit but what about speakers? What size should I be looking at and how many? Anyone ever replace tweeters, sub, etc? Or just stick 4 speakers in and ride?

-Looking to replace the stock roof rack with a Yakima. What should I use to fill screw holes on top of roof? Keep screws in? Take out?

-Looking like I will need a new front window motor. Best to talk to guys on the boards for new OEM or source a used one?

-Are people pretty happy with the Weather Tech floor mats? Are there better/cheaper options?

Know that's a lot of questions - thanks for all the help!

-Rob

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Search for speakers, many write ups...

I'd rivet/silicone the holes shut...

EVAP system could be the cause of the rough start when hot (try venting the tank first)

Why do you want a window motor? Slow? Most likely need new window runs (the rubber they ride in) and to clean/regrease the motor and linkage...

And post some damn pics!!!

 

[BRob2756]

Search for speakers, many write ups...

I'd rivet/silicone the holes shut...

EVAP system could be the cause of the rough start when hot (try venting the tank first)

Why do you want a window motor? Slow? Most likely need new window runs (the rubber they ride in) and to clean/regrease the motor and linkage...

And post some damn pics!!!

Thanks - will do. I'm a pic nut myself, I have shamed my family posting a new thread without pictures.

Window motor is unresponsive. No noise, no movement. Thinking I should replace but if there is a fix, I'm all ears. Need to get a multimeter in there to see about power.

Also, notcied my oil gauge reads fairly normal when under acceleration but dips down when at idle. Faulty gauge? Any other ideas?

Thanks!

-Rob

 

[Bella1992]

I too have the LX 450. I am in the process of replacing the small sub woofer in the console with a brand-new polk audio unit. Make sure if you do replace it, that you search for and find a 2 ohm speaker. Most car speakers are four ohm, and most house speakers are eight ohm so it's very important that if you want that sub to work in your console you get 2 Ohm. I had found some cool looking speakers at Goodwill and put one in. I didn't know if it would make a difference, but the speakers I installed were 8 ohm. Couldn't hear a dog gone thing. I did a search on eBay for a 5 1/2 inch subwoofer that's a two ohm and found the polk sub to be only $27 delivered.

 

[baggar11]

Also, notcied my oil gauge reads fairly normal when under acceleration but dips down when at idle. Faulty gauge? Any other ideas?

-Rob

That's normal.

 

[IronCladLou]

If you find that your window motor is shot, I seem to remember a thread that listed other Toyota window motors that work in that location (so you don't get stuck paying a premium for a "1997 Lexus LX450" window motor). Mud is a huge resource for stuff like that. Search will be your friend.

As for the oil, I would use a good, name brand oil (with a factory filter) and change it on a regular basis. Pick whatever viscosity makes you feel good.

 

[baselfish]

oil leaks = valve cover gasket - dzzy o-ring - crank shaft seal - oil pump seal.
just look under the part and if you see black crud under - especially gathering on the underside pan cover -
(all easily jobs that you can do on your own)


weathertech - from what I understand there is a new line of true fit mats....I have an older series from a few years ago -
that I simply cut (box knife) using the stock carpets (front and back) as a guide....


heres a helpful thread on speakers....(see page #9)

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hi...eaker-replacement-behind-stock-grille.163991/



Front - Pioneer TS-G1643R 6.5-Inch 2-Way Speakers (Pair)
Rear - Pioneer TS-G1043R 4 In. 2-Way Speaker

Sadly - I don't think they make these anymore and am not sure the new models fit under the stock door panels....

Here is a thread on the head unit....
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=141518

hopefully you know how to generally install stereos...aside from getting a new head unit harness - 12v +, GND, 12v remote wiring etc....
the biggest "trick" was to remove the factory amp (passenger side kick panel) and rear "sub" woofer


parts - see / search out - "cdan" very nice fellow



Bf
1997
209k and rolling....

 

[BRob2756]

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated! Passed smog today and got it registered, now on to base lining.

Rob

 

[dmarch]

I filled my roof rack holes with well nuts. Been 6 months and no leaks.

 

[4G63 POWER]

What do you mean "just came to town" ? I would run 5w 30 and forget about it. I just installed a set of weathertech "floorliner" series and they fit perfect. Pricey though.

 

[Tredwards]

Those pioneer speakers gift fine. They are the 1644 and 1044 now. Follow the recs in the threads. Little modding necessary but fits fine, just did the 2 wks ago with a kenwood ddx471 hd headunit and backup camera

 

[baselfish]

good to know...if I recall - the fronts are straight drop ins and the rears only require some minor "cutting" of the bracket
drilling 2 small holes and new long mounting screws - but both look completely stock.

I believe too one only uses 2 of the 3 harnesses - one will be unused.

lastly - I do recall the biggest PITA was the damn shifter knob always in the way - so keep the key so you can engage / push back the shifter.


Bf