LX Accessory Switch / On Board Air Switch

[ATwoZ]

I'm in the process of setting up OBA with an ARB Twin- compressor and manifold are mounted with a Slee bracket, and now I'm working on the wiring portion.

Unlike the LC, the LX doesn't have any blank panels of this size in the interior.

At the moment this is my only accessory, and don't have any immediate plans to add others, so investing in sPod/Linx etc doesn't seem to make much sense. Has anyone else been through this? Where did you mount your switch? In-cabin? Under hood? What did you do for brackets etc.

If you mounted under-hood, how did you wire in the illumination power etc, or did you skip that?

 

[TeCKis300]

Here's a couple potential ideas

- Use the space where I have my Switchpros to locate any generic interior switch
- Don't bother with an interior switch and locate one underhood. As the LX has engine covers, I located a fuse/switch near the battery opening. You'll need to cut the drivers side cover to locate the ARB anyways, could locate one anywhere about there

 

[ATwoZ]

Here's a couple potential ideas

- Use the space where I have my Switchpros to locate any generic interior switch
- Don't bother with an interior switch and locate one underhood. As the LX has engine covers, I located a fuse/switch near the battery opening. You'll need to cut the drivers side cover to locate the ARB anyways, could locate one anywhere about there

Thanks! I think underhood is feeling like the simplest path...I haven't even checked to see if I'll be able to mount the engine cover on with the ARB/Slee bracket...in my hunting I ran across ARB Rocker Switch / Air Coupler Combo Mount | 813 Fabrication & Design - https://www.813fabrication.com/product-page/arb-switch-air-chuck-combo-mount which I'm checking with the fabricator on for dimensions...hoping it's an easy solve to mount the switch and use the Relocation kit for the chuck Amazon product ASIN B073V82GB3
Are there specific hoses to use for the relocation? I know the manifold came with a braided one- is that a normal type hose I could get from HD/Lowe's or more specialty?

 

[highfructose]

I haven’t done it yet, but I was planning on attempting to cut a hole in the little pop out compartment to the left of the steering wheel on the dash…and then pressing a few toggle switches into it.

currently I have my ditch light switch and onboard air switch inside that compartment…one day I’ll get around to attempting to do it right.

 

[ATwoZ]

I haven’t done it yet, but I was planning on attempting to cut a hole in the little pop out compartment to the left of the steering wheel on the dash…and then pressing a few toggle switches into it.

currently I have my ditch light switch and onboard air switch inside that compartment…one day I’ll get around to attempting to do it right.

Cool- I looked at that spot too- are you trapped into anything for illuminating the switch etc?

 

[radman]

Here’s what I did before my switch-pros:


What have you done to your 200 Series this week? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-200-series-this-week.818471/post-13017307

 

[CharlieS]

The Slee bracket has a spot for a switch, ARB provides a switch.

If you want illumination (I didn’t bother), and you don't already have an auxiliary fuse panel in your engine compartment tap into any convenient underhood 12v+ wire (even the battery) or throw an add-a-fuse into the underhood fuse box and wire it into back of the ARB switch.

lf you want an easy ignition triggered power, you can grab the IGN slot in the fuse box (I use that as an ignition trigger for my Switch-Pros).

 

[grinchy]

I use a small bluetooth relay and a phone based app.
The app isn’t stateful so it works best for lights compressor stuff you know is on, but it can (and I do ) use it for an elocker.
The app pairs in my case with a 4 relay board, but 2 and 8 are on the market.

also suggest while you’re installing to move the compressor service outlet to either the rear tailgate (see @TeCKis300 thread) or to front grill (@tbisaacs did this iirc). You can use push to connect fittings for the hose run, the fittings and hose are not expensive.

 

[ATwoZ]

Here’s what I did before my switch-pros:


What have you done to your 200 Series this week? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-200-series-this-week.818471/post-13017307

Ugh...that sucks so much, I've had a few of those measure multiple times and still run into something else...love the melting it down and making a mold though...

The Slee bracket has a spot for a switch, ARB provides a switch.

If you want illumination (I didn’t bother), and you don't already have an auxiliary fuse panel in your engine compartment tap into any convenient underhood 12v+ wire (even the battery) or throw an add-a-fuse into the underhood fuse box and wire it into back of the ARB switch.

lf you want an easy ignition triggered power, you can grab the IGN slot in the fuse box (I use that as an ignition trigger for my Switch-Pros).

Well crap. I didn't even realize that was part of Slee's bracket well that may make things a lot easier.

I use a small bluetooth relay and a phone based app.
The app isn’t stateful so it works best for lights compressor stuff you know is on, but it can (and I do ) use it for an elocker.
The app pairs in my case with a 4 relay board, but 2 and 8 are on the market.

also suggest while you’re installing to move the compressor service outlet to either the rear tailgate (see @TeCKis300 thread) or to front grill (@tbisaacs did this iirc). You can use push to connect fittings for the hose run, the fittings and hose are not expensive.

View attachment 2713438

This is slick! Which bt relay did you get? Would you recommend it?

 

[JetFuel]

I'm in the process of setting up OBA with an ARB Twin- compressor and manifold are mounted with a Slee bracket, and now I'm working on the wiring portion.

Unlike the LC, the LX doesn't have any blank panels of this size in the interior.

At the moment this is my only accessory, and don't have any immediate plans to add others, so investing in sPod/Linx etc doesn't seem to make much sense. Has anyone else been through this? Where did you mount your switch? In-cabin? Under hood? What did you do for brackets etc.

If you mounted under-hood, how did you wire in the illumination power etc, or did you skip that?

I removed two switches that I never use in my '15: the "kneeling" button, and the one that turns the electric rear hatch on and off. I left it on (red line exposed) and just disconnected it and ziptied the wires out of the way. That allowed me to put my Redarc brake controller and lightbar switch in those two locations. My OBA switch (I copied @TeCKis300 ) is in the engine bay since that's where my quick disconnect is. If I had a QD somewhere that allowed me to not have to open the hood or if I had a tank I wanted to fill while I lollygagged getting out of the truck, I'd probably wire a switch inside the cab. There is some real estate at the very bottom of the knee panel, under the airbag with what look like relief cut-outs in the shape of switches - that's probably where I'd put my compressor switch since it doesn't need to be visible or accessed while on the move.

Getting that drop down tray out on the left side is a monumental pain in the rear. I had the same idea of putting switches in there and decided it wasn't worth the effort and risk breaking tabs on the dash. I think others have done it but for me that's a last-resort thing.

 

[tbisaacs]

Having a 100% external filler and switch is game changer IMO! It seems silly but I love it.

 

[lx200inAR]

I guess no one here relies on the pressure and ignition switch connections to the relay for the air compressor as "enough" to control the compressor? My plan was to use a circuit breaker/switch for the main 12v to the compressor and then rely on the pressure switch and the ignition switch connected to the relay so the compressor only runs when air is being asked for. I figure in a failure situation where my air system has lost pressure so the air compressor wants to run all the time I could always flip the breaker. I can definitely see pitfalls to this approach, but in theory seems like it should be fine.

 

[ATwoZ]

I removed two switches that I never use in my '15: the "kneeling" button, and the one that turns the electric rear hatch on and off. I left it on (red line exposed) and just disconnected it and ziptied the wires out of the way. That allowed me to put my Redarc brake controller and lightbar switch in those two locations. My OBA switch (I copied @TeCKis300 ) is in the engine bay since that's where my quick disconnect is. If I had a QD somewhere that allowed me to not have to open the hood or if I had a tank I wanted to fill while I lollygagged getting out of the truck, I'd probably wire a switch inside the cab. There is some real estate at the very bottom of the knee panel, under the airbag with what look like relief cut-outs in the shape of switches - that's probably where I'd put my compressor switch since it doesn't need to be visible or accessed while on the move.

Getting that drop down tray out on the left side is a monumental pain in the rear. I had the same idea of putting switches in there and decided it wasn't worth the effort and risk breaking tabs on the dash. I think others have done it but for me that's a last-resort thing.

Good call out. I didn't find that too tricky to get around there myself if we're talking the same area- I replaced the turn signal blinker module thing and it wasn't too bad.

Having a 100% external filler and switch is game changer IMO! It seems silly but I love it.

Well I guess this will be something else I'll follow your approach on Although I need to see if I can find a suitable mounting location to relocate wtihout an aftermarket front bumper.

I guess no one here relies on the pressure and ignition switch connections to the relay for the air compressor as "enough" to control the compressor? My plan was to use a circuit breaker/switch for the main 12v to the compressor and then rely on the pressure switch and the ignition switch connected to the relay so the compressor only runs when air is being asked for. I figure in a failure situation where my air system has lost pressure so the air compressor wants to run all the time I could always flip the breaker. I can definitely see pitfalls to this approach, but in theory seems like it should be fine.

Yeah - I like the idea of tapping into the ignition fuse for that, but we'll see. Normally wouldn't care too much for the illumination piece, but as I'm seeing where the mount is on the slee bracket it might not be the worst idea in the dark.

 

[grinchy]

I guess no one here relies on the pressure and ignition switch connections to the relay for the air compressor as "enough" to control the compressor? My plan was to use a circuit breaker/switch for the main 12v to the compressor and then rely on the pressure switch and the ignition switch connected to the relay so the compressor only runs when air is being asked for. I figure in a failure situation where my air system has lost pressure so the air compressor wants to run all the time I could always flip the breaker. I can definitely see pitfalls to this approach, but in theory seems like it should be fine.

I like the simplicity. I have mine not on ignition switching so if it was 'on' it could pull down the battery, but with it being ignition switched that seems pretty safe. Worst case it comes on occasionally/unpredictably to rebuild pressure.

Ugh...that sucks so much, I've had a few of those measure multiple times and still run into something else...love the melting it down and making a mold though...

Well crap. I didn't even realize that was part of Slee's bracket well that may make things a lot easier.

This is slick! Which bt relay did you get? Would you recommend it?

It works fine. The new Garmin solution is better, but it costs 20x as much, too.
I have to re-pair occasionally, and reboot phone maybe once a year to force a re-pair.. However I have never had to use the under hood override, so it is very reliable with these caveats.

The compressor install is here:

Builds - The Guzzler - 2009 LX570

Six month report on the Hikari Phillips low beams. They’re boss. Love them. Get some. Links to the ones you bought?

forum.ih8mud.com

Relay info here:

Builds - The Guzzler - 2009 LX570

Will def do that after I send this junk back to adapt for "fixing". That's the stock cable it came with (there's a 3rd signal wire to change the beam pattern and accent light color 🤣). Cool. I didn't plump for a white/amber but I kind of wish I had. I'm holding out hope I can find a amber cover...

forum.ih8mud.com

I had plans for a multiway roof light build out, but only ended up doing the main light, so I never installed the second relay and box. Right now using the 'custom' accessory box under hood for all the accessories.

 

[highfructose]

Cool- I looked at that spot too- are you trapped into anything for illuminating the switch etc?

Yes…there’s a bunch of wires for all the various buttons near that compartment. I tapped into one of them. Don’t know which one. Wasn’t hard…you just want something that has 12v when the car is on and doesn’t when it’s not.

 

[ATwoZ]

More simple questions, so I'm wrapping up wiring and decided to keep things simple for now using the spot on Slee's bracket for the switch. This has left me with a whole bunch of extra wire and the leads for air lockers/solenoids I don't have.

Since this is all in the engine bay, the approach I took was to wrap the ends of the leads in electrical tape to keep out dust etc and then bundled and zip ties the excess wire under the compressor bracket.

Eventually I may relocate items again to another location, in the mean time are there any major flaws in what I did? One of my big worries is the Slee bracket makes a point of saying the wires you relocate for the bracket shouldn't touch the new bracket...

 

[highfructose]

More simple questions, so I'm wrapping up wiring and decided to keep things simple for now using the spot on Slee's bracket for the switch. This has left me with a whole bunch of extra wire and the leads for air lockers/solenoids I don't have.

Since this is all in the engine bay, the approach I took was to wrap the ends of the leads in electrical tape to keep out dust etc and then bundled and zip ties the excess wire under the compressor bracket.

Eventually I may relocate items again to another location, in the mean time are there any major flaws in what I did? One of my big worries is the Slee bracket makes a point of saying the wires you relocate for the bracket shouldn't touch the new bracket...

The bracket is attached to the body which is likely grounded…so slee probably just doesn’t want you to risk grounding those wires…

 

[CharlieS]

More simple questions, so I'm wrapping up wiring and decided to keep things simple for now using the spot on Slee's bracket for the switch. This has left me with a whole bunch of extra wire and the leads for air lockers/solenoids I don't have.

Since this is all in the engine bay, the approach I took was to wrap the ends of the leads in electrical tape to keep out dust etc and then bundled and zip ties the excess wire under the compressor bracket.

Eventually I may relocate items again to another location, in the mean time are there any major flaws in what I did? One of my big worries is the Slee bracket makes a point of saying the wires you relocate for the bracket shouldn't touch the new bracket...

There have been issues with the Slee compressor bracket wearing through wires (and destroying SAIS drivers). In my opinion, anywhere you have wires on or near a metal edge, you should consider protecting the wire with protective sheathing. I also try to minimize movement of wires near edges for the same reason (I probably overuse zip ties).

 

[ATwoZ]

The bracket is attached to the body which is likely grounded…so slee probably just doesn’t want you to risk grounding those wires…

There have been issues with the Slee compressor bracket wearing through wires (and destroying SAIS drivers). In my opinion, anywhere you have wires on or near a metal edge, you should consider protecting the wire with protective sheathing. I also try to minimize movement of wires near edges for the same reason (I probably overuse zip ties).

Got it. So not a heat concern or anything. I can work with that- thanks!