LX 570 WDH/Sway Bar Recommendation for Escape 21C Trailer (2 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

Thanks for the information and advice. Pretty sure we were not tight enough. I also now understand that you should be measuring the drop in the height across all wheels once hooked up and tightened to confirm how weight is distributing.

To confirm distribution is ideal and thus tightness is ideal, my plan is to:

1. Set AHC to Neutral and measure ground to fender (tape a mark) to document normal height
2. Turn OFF AHC
3. Hook it up, tighten it, and measure reduction in height across all tires
4. Modify tightness if not balanced front to back
5. Turn on AHC and confirm AHC re-levels to Step 1 heights (the system should do this when turning back on, correct?)

I also think our ball could be dropped one setting/level, so I'm going to measure tongue height at various points and confirm we are getting the trailer as level as possible. We will probably keep to 65 mph most of the time, so I'm going to focus on level without the additional AHC drop at 66 mph. Although traveling at 65 mph is kind of a PITA with AHC b/c inevitably I'm hitting 66 mph so AHC is raising/lowering frequently. Not really ideal... So I'm debating sticking to 67-70 mph vs 65 mph... That's something we can always adjust later though - i want to first deal with the bounciness and then we can adjust based on speed preferences.

Other questions for everyone:

- I have a slight lean on the LX to the driver's side (less than 1/4 inch) that I know is common. Is this worth worrying about wrt towing?
- Do you grease the hitch ball?
- There is a bit of play in the hitch and receiver (horizontal and vertical). It has already rubbed clean the paint on the hitch and really "polished" the inside of the receiver. Is that an issue? Have any of you gotten custom fab'd hitches to remove all play? Do you use something like these? (https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti~Rattle/etrailer/e38FV.html?feed=npn or https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Softride-Locks-Hitch-Accessories-SR25219.aspx)

Thanks a lot

We'll get you setup.

Part of the challenge is that you can't assess distribution via measurements like a static suspension rig, so don't bother measuring heights as it won't be useful. Assess the setup by making sure you have WD tension, or compression of the red bushing (more than you probably think you need).

For AHC at speed, it lowers at 100 km/h (62mph), but it won't raise again until speed goes below 80 km/h (50 mph).

- 1/4 lean is insignificant
- No grease should be used on the Anderson per the manufacture as it could get into the friction cone
- Play in the hitch is not a big deal as once WD tension is applied, it will generally take a set. Another indication there isn't enough WD tension.

Question
- What position are you running AHC damping? I would recommend no less than normal but sport can be useful to change the harmonics of any porpoising. Andersons are a bit more vulnerable to porpoising as they can only transfer limited weight back to the front axle.

 

[CactusHopper]

With the AHC off, the vehicle won't respond to the weight and lower? Do the struts and their static pressure hold the vehicle in position?

I've tried Comfort and Sport. Doesn't have much effect other than the effect it normally has without a trainer, i.e. a bit less floaty and more sharp bounce in Sport.

I'm pretty sure I had the AHC fluid flushed at 95k when I purchased it, but I'm double checking with my mechanic. We are at 112k miles now with original globes. The AHC responds quickly so I doubt my issues is related to the AHC performance.

I swear my AHC is lowering at 66-67 mph but you're right that is should be 62 mph. I'll double check next time I'm on the highway. BTW - I've remade that graphic for MPH and to include tire size. Going to post it on here at some point...

Cheers

 

[CactusHopper]

@TeCKis300 side question for you...

You use your OBA to blow off dust, etc. Do you know if it'd be possible to use OBA to blow out an trailer's pex for winterizing? Everything I read says you need a traditional compressor... I'd like to have an OBA system that we could use to blow out the pex if we have an unexpected freeze while traveling for a week vs having to keep a compressor on board or filling the pex with antifreeze.

 

[TeCKis300]

With the AHC off, the vehicle won't respond to the weight and lower? Do the struts and their static pressure hold the vehicle in position?

I've tried Comfort and Sport. Doesn't have much effect other than the effect it normally has without a trainer, i.e. a bit less floaty and more sharp bounce in Sport.

I'm pretty sure I had the AHC fluid flushed at 95k when I purchased it, but I'm double checking with my mechanic. We are at 112k miles now with original globes. The AHC responds quickly so I doubt my issues is related to the AHC performance.

I swear my AHC is lowering at 66-67 mph but you're right that is should be 62 mph. I'll double check next time I'm on the highway. BTW - I've remade that graphic for MPH and to include tire size. Going to post it on here at some point...

Cheers

Yes, with the larger tires, the car will be moving relatively faster via GPS than it knows, so 66-67 mph is spot on.

@TeCKis300 side question for you...

You use your OBA to blow off dust, etc. Do you know if it'd be possible to use OBA to blow out an trailer's pex for winterizing? Everything I read says you need a traditional compressor... I'd like to have an OBA system that we could use to blow out the pex if we have an unexpected freeze while traveling for a week vs having to keep a compressor on board or filling the pex with antifreeze.

This will depend on your specific OBA - meaning you'll need some minimum CFM output to be able to winterize. Looking up google, this will want about 4CFM and 30-50 psi. I confess I've never had to winterize living in sunny San Diego. In the handful of times I've been up to snow country, I'm using the RV and running the heater so winterizing hasn't been a concern (or skill) of mine.

 

[CactusHopper]

Yes, with the larger tires, the car will be moving relatively faster via GPS than it knows, so 66-67 mph is spot on.



This will depend on your specific OBA - meaning you'll need some minimum CFM output to be able to winterize. Looking up google, this will want about 4CFM and 30-50 psi. I confess I've never had to winterize living in sunny San Diego. In the handful of times I've been up to snow country, I'm using the RV and running the heater so winterizing hasn't been a concern (or skill) of mine.

I'm confused about the speed... My tires are around an inch greater diameter than stock - not much difference. So the vehicle moves faster than the speedometer shows but Google Maps is generally pretty close, maybe 1-2 mph. The AHC should be based on the speedometer, so shouldn't it lower when the speedometer shows 62 mph instead of 66-67 mph??