LV floors (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NOSAJ
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….and rear quarters
whitey45
SILVER Star
Just saw this!!! They have it all and then some!!! Even a 4 door 45!!! And lv seats!!!
- Thread starter
- #4
Wow!
Mtntopper
SILVER Star
Have you reached out for details? I don't want to double team them if you have, might create a false illusion of demand for their products and consequently a price change.
whitey45
SILVER Star
I havent, not in the market right now, but I think if we all got on the same page we could bring in a 20 ft container in a big group buy to help with shipping cost!
- Thread starter
- #7
I sent 2 emails one in English and and Spanish, and watching my email like a hawk! Hopefully I’ll hear something
I msgd them a few days ago. The complete floor takes two weeks to make and costs $1200
KT40
SILVER Star
I am guessing they ship?
I should hope so
- Thread starter
- #11
I’m still waiting on a shipping quote.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thinking about taking a risk and placing an order. Prices seem very reasonable. But still haven’t firmed up a shipping price.
I’d be willing to sign up for half floor going forward and rear quarters. Maybe the more the better. I know that most people’s floors and rear quarters are blown out. This is your opportunity.
- Thread starter
- #14
Got a few pictures from him. I’m thinking about ordering the full floor both quarters and rear seal.
Mtntopper
SILVER Star
I wonder if the floors would be different from a left and right hand drive car. I do know the two sides of a transmission hump are not symmetrical.
Have they mentioned anything about dipping or otherwise treating that metal?
Have they mentioned anything about dipping or otherwise treating that metal?
I’d think the floors would be the same. Like my two HJ47’s; one rhd, one lhd. Their trans humps were the same.
And, that’s a good questions about being dipped.
And, that’s a good questions about being dipped.
I know that LV floors are nearly impossible to find, but please note that there are quite a few things I notice that are different then the LV floors I (painfully) recreated for my rig. I'm not here to throw rocks at what looks to be a great starting point for LV floor replacement, but I would anticipate the floors pictured will require a decent bit of modification to make them fit. Yes, I would buy them too if I had the option a few years ago. I'm just trying to show some of the details I learned making my own floors.
Here are some examples of what I see "different" in the floors shown from Columbia. I am concentrated on the front floor area: 1. The transverse seam on front floors the LV run across the vehicle at the back of the transmission hump ( ones pictured do not), 2. the flange on the front floors should bend upward toward the roof to attach the front floor to the seam on the front door sill plate, 3. at the back door left/right attachment points the floor pictured has a step where it attaches rear door sill plate. 4. there is not "hump" in the floor pictured that is under front seat to accomodate clearance for the round frame cross member...it will have to be added.
Below are pictures of my floor as I created them to highlight the differences I see above.
Picture 1...notice the vice grip in the lower center ....it is holding the attachement flange to the front door sill flange
Picture 2 - showing the rearward section of the front floors. (I had to make this piece in 2 sections, left/right because it was too big to handle in one piece) Notice the hump on the left side of this piece. Also, notice the floor/side sill flange is tapered from the b pillar forward the front of the vehicle.... that is why on the left picture it looks like the right edge of my floor piece doesn't look straight.
Here are some examples of what I see "different" in the floors shown from Columbia. I am concentrated on the front floor area: 1. The transverse seam on front floors the LV run across the vehicle at the back of the transmission hump ( ones pictured do not), 2. the flange on the front floors should bend upward toward the roof to attach the front floor to the seam on the front door sill plate, 3. at the back door left/right attachment points the floor pictured has a step where it attaches rear door sill plate. 4. there is not "hump" in the floor pictured that is under front seat to accomodate clearance for the round frame cross member...it will have to be added.
Below are pictures of my floor as I created them to highlight the differences I see above.
Picture 1...notice the vice grip in the lower center ....it is holding the attachement flange to the front door sill flange
Picture 2 - showing the rearward section of the front floors. (I had to make this piece in 2 sections, left/right because it was too big to handle in one piece) Notice the hump on the left side of this piece. Also, notice the floor/side sill flange is tapered from the b pillar forward the front of the vehicle.... that is why on the left picture it looks like the right edge of my floor piece doesn't look straight.
Thanks for sharing. I appreciate it as it’ll help guys decide on whether to buy or not AND what to expect when receiving the product.
- Thread starter
- #20
Here’s another picture. Looks like the back section might be bent up for the flange
