LSPV Looks Different From Photos (1 Viewer)

[Swirvinnirvinn]

Hey again y’all!
I’ve recently started having a weird brake fade situation that occurs intermittently on hot days, which has me preparing for a brake flush as the old stuff looks pretty black and contaminated, as well as the replacement of rubber hoses to refresh the system a bit.
I’ve sprayed some PB Blaster on the bleeders to prepare as well, but upon the inspection before preparation, I noticed that my LSPV boot is looking kinda sucked in. I’ve googled photos and everyone’s looks pretty round and supple, which leads me to believe either something is up with mine………. Or something is up with mine.
I’ve tried searching for similar cases, but can only find posts of leaky ones. Anyone have any idea what could be up with mine?

I appreciate any info and time you guys can spare and hopefully can get this figured out because I’ve had a few scares where the brakes just lose all pressure, as if the brake fluid gets too hot, or the lspv is trying balance the braking when I have a tired suspension with an ARB bar in front and 33” tires.

Have a great weekend everyone!

 

[Polo]

Did you try simply letting some air in along the rod to see if it would re-inflate and look normal?

I'm no expert, but I did replace my LSPV last weekend... with help from folks on here on MUD. And yes I tore my boot like many others.

 

[mudgudgeon]

It's just a dust cover. Nothing to lose sleep over.

 

[Swirvinnirvinn]

Did you try simply letting some air in along the rod to see if it would re-inflate and look normal?

I'm no expert, but I did replace my LSPV last weekend... with help from folks on here on MUD. And yes I tore my boot like many others.

honestly, this is my first time I’ve done anything brake fluid related as I want to learn more about my cruiser, but I’ll look into that! Thanks for the reply!

 

[Swirvinnirvinn]

It's just a dust cover. Nothing to lose sleep over.

Oh man! So if I just bleed it as normal, it may not reinflate, but it’s all good?
I’m just trying to get my brakes feeling safe again.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Oh man! So if I just bleed it as normal, it may not reinflate, but it’s all good?
I’m just trying to get my brakes feeling safe again.

Bleeding the brakes will have no impact on that rubber boot. It's an external protective cover to keep dust and mud etc out of moving parts. It's important for that function, but had no direct effect on braking.

If it was full of fluid, hitting the brakes would blow it up like a balloon

 

[mudgudgeon]

Bleeding the LSPV can be a pain in the butt.

Do some reading of you haven't already.

I think the best approach is to bleed the LSPV first, then rear calipers then front.

 

[Swirvinnirvinn]

Bleeding the LSPV can be a pain in the butt.

Do some reading of you haven't already.

I think the best approach is to bleed the LSPV first, then rear calipers then front.

Will do! Hopefully I’ll at least feel some improvement. I’ve read a few posts, trying to get an understanding, but everyone seems to have their own methods (bleed the lspv in between each caliper, etc.) but it’s also easy to feel information overload. Plus, the boot being sunken in was adding to the stress while trying to diagnose as it is my only DD.
Would you say an adjustment to the LSPV would be required, considering 33” tires were installed to a tired suspension with an ARB bar? Those are also specific factors I’ve been trying to read and search on to no avail.

Thanks again for the advice again so far!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Bleeding is a simple enough task, though it can be frustrating.
I hear you on the information overload.

I think what you're aiming to do is a good idea if fluid is dirty. I guess, just be prepared to bleed the brakes over and over again. It can take a long time.

Buy more fluid than you think you'll need.

once you crack bleed nipples loose, don't overtighten while bleeding.
Set yourself up with clear tube and an empty soft drink bottle on each bleeder.
Drill a hole at the neck of the bottle and zip tie the tube into the bottle so the end stays covered once you start bleeding. This way you aren't swapping the tube from one wheel to the next. Less chance of accidentally sucking in air.
you can also let gravity do the initial bleed, open the bleeder and let fluid run through by itself. Once you have clean fluid at all bleeders, then start pumping the pedal.
Make sure reservoir never ends up empty



Tire size has no impact on the LSPV position, only lift, or cargo load.

If you have stock suspension, I'd leave it alone, don't try to adjust the LSPV.

 

[LandLocked93]

Having done it:
1 - bent over on a 5 gallon bucket with a vacuum tool
2 - with a person mashing the brake pedal and me loosening and tightening the bleed valve
and
3 - paying $60 at Brakes Plus to have them do it with a machine...

...it's just simpler and faster at a brake place with a machine.
AND they can flush with new fluid at the same time. That's a whole 'nother step if you want to do that DIY.

edit:when Slee did my 3" lift they bent the LSVP rod down in the middle about 1 - 1.5"s. Works fine best I can tell.

 

[deltapine1]

I baselined my brakes back in 2017 when I got my 80. All new OEM rubber lines, Calipers, MC and LSPV. Since then the Booster went out and I replaced it (didn't require breaking lines loose). Bleed the LSPV first, then do the calipers. I did the Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front and then Left Front.

Since then I use a turkey baster (never use it for cooking again) at every other oil change and remove about 6 oz of fluid out of the MC (never taking the level all the way to the bottom of the reservoir) and replace it with 6 oz of new fluid. I am continually changing out brake fluid. I do this because brake fluid is hydrophillic and absorbs moisture out of the air thus degrading the fluid.

 

[BILT4ME]

I baselined my brakes back in 2017 when I got my 80. All new OEM rubber lines, Calipers, MC and LSPV. Since then the Booster went out and I replaced it (didn't require breaking lines loose). Bleed the LSPV first, then do the calipers. I did the Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front and then Left Front.

Since then I use a turkey baster (never use it for cooking again) at every other oil change and remove about 6 oz of fluid out of the MC (never taking the level all the way to the bottom of the reservoir) and replace it with 6 oz of new fluid. I am continually changing out brake fluid. I do this because brake fluid is hydrophillic and absorbs moisture out of the air thus degrading the fluid.

Hygroscopic, not hydrophylic.

 

[Swirvinnirvinn]

First off, thanks to everyone for their advice and input! I read everyone’s way of going about it and bled them in RR,LR,FR,FL,LSPV. Just to update on the whole deal, the fluid is now all cleared up! The old fluid was coffee black and is now completely clear.
The one thing that sucks is that my brakes still kind of intermittently lose pressure depending on the speed and incline of the road. It more so happens if I’m either going over a small hump at certain speeds and start braking immediately, or if I’m going down an incline, like getting off the highway and slowing down while approaching a stop light that I start to feel the pressure disappear. If that pressure disappears and I pump, I normally get my brakes back, but if I still push down, I’ll hear what sounds like a foghorn sound or distant car honk coming from somewhere that I can’t pinpoint.
I’ve checked the rotors out and the rear passenger rotor has a gouge. I replaced the brakes and rotors about a year ago and have driven it a total of 13k miles.
I’ll probably investigate that rotor and pads next, but this Texas heat makes everything troublesome. Lol

 

[Swirvinnirvinn]

All the other ones seem still new so I’ll investigate what’s going on, but I appreciate everyone’s help so far!!!

 

[LandLocked93]

Hygroscopic, not hydrophylic.

I do this because brake fluid is hydrophillic and absorbs moisture out of the air thus degrading the fluid.

I think you're both right. Just a slight variation on the context.

 

[LandLocked93]

All the other ones seem still new so I’ll investigate what’s going on, but I appreciate everyone’s help so far!!!

View attachment 3394546

View attachment 3394547

Interesting. Curious what the pad looks like. A tiny pebble became embedded maybe?

 

[BILT4ME]

I think you're both right. Just a slight variation on the context.

No.

But way more technical than we need to be here.

 

[deltapine1]

No.

But way more technical than we need to be here.

True. Whether Hygroscopic or Hydrophylic, do NOT use the Turkey Baster on the Turkey at Thanksgiving after use in servicing the brake fluid.