LSPV delete? (4 Viewers)

[AcroSteve]

I know there's already a bunch of information for the "how to", but I could use some "why".

Chassis is 96 sitting on a ome 3" lift at the moment, but might go back to different springs to lower the ride height a little. Not sure if that matters.

Could see some towing use. Tires are 33, maybe 35s.

The valve is in non leaking condition and connected to the diff housing. Beyond that, i don't know if it "functions". The brake lines are good, and just disconnected at the master cyl only. I bled the brakes this way. Seemed to do just fine.

So my question is, delete it, or reconnect it and go through the trouble bleeding the rest of the system.

What would you do?
Thanks.

 

[bug616]

LSPV can only ever work properly on standard load carrying springs. As soon as you increase the load carrying capacity of your springs you negate proper functioning of the LSPV for additional load and will result in too little braking at the rear. This is further undermined by larger tyres. Getting rid, fitting a bias valve and properly setting up ensures you have best possible braking for your load and tyre size.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Delete

 

[BILT4ME]

I know there's already a bunch of information for the "how to", but I could use some "why".

Chassis is 96 sitting on a ome 3" lift at the moment, but might go back to different springs to lower the ride height a little. Not sure if that matters.

Could see some towing use. Tires are 33, maybe 35s.

The valve is in non leaking condition and connected to the diff housing. Beyond that, i don't know if it "functions". The brake lines are good, and just disconnected at the master cyl only. I bled the brakes this way. Seemed to do just fine.

So my question is, delete it, or reconnect it and go through the trouble bleeding the rest of the system.

What would you do?
Thanks.

View attachment 3797128

I have OME 2-1/2 lift w/ heavy springs and 33" tires.

I just replaced my LSPV with new, installed Toyota rear calipers, and properly adjusted the LSPV. My brakes are now great. I have my ABS intentionally disabled. I can lock my rears only when under very hard braking, but it's late enough that it's very controllable.

I recommend replacing it as intended. Mine is a DD and I regularly carry about 800 lbs of stuff in the truck.

 

[lumbee1]

Delete with prejudice. My LSPV only made the brakes worse by limiting the power of the rear brakes especially with a lift installed. IMO, the LSPV shouldn't have come on the trucks originally. Removing the LSPV also simplifies the braking system. However I would highly recommend installing a manual proportioning valve to control front/rear bias. Otherwise during a panic stop, the rear will lock up first and the vehicle could rotate.

 

[Gigem96]

Delete with prejudice. My LSPV only made the brakes worse by limiting the power of the rear brakes especially with a lift installed. IMO, the LSPV shouldn't have come on the trucks originally. Removing the LSPV also simplifies the braking system. However I would highly recommend installing a manual proportioning valve to control front/rear bias. Otherwise during a panic stop, the rear will lock up first and the vehicle could rotate.

Hi @lumbee1
I need to delete my LSPV but not my ABS. I have the wilwood valve and some plugs. But I just want to be sure which line to unplug and plug at master area. I assume it’s a “return” line and not the primary rear from the ABS? And it connects the the rear passenger side of the tee under master cylinder via the elbow connection down by the shock tower and frame? And it’s the lower of the paired connections at the LSPV? Thanks!!

 

[Marco Lau]

Yes if you have a lifted rig of 3" or more.

 

[lumbee1]

Hi @lumbee1
I need to delete my LSPV but not my ABS. I have the wilwood valve and some plugs. But I just want to be sure which line to unplug and plug at master area. I assume it’s a “return” line and not the primary rear from the ABS? And it connects the the rear passenger side of the tee under master cylinder via the elbow connection down by the shock tower and frame? And it’s the lower of the paired connections at the LSPV? Thanks!!

View attachment 3817256

View attachment 3817257

View attachment 3817258

Welded Brake Fitting.

Yeap, your pictures look correct. You will need to test the manual proportioning valve. I marked the "W" with fingernail polish on mine so I could count the number of rotations. Full open is a bad idea.

 

[White Stripe]

LSPV can only ever work properly on standard load carrying springs. As soon as you increase the load carrying capacity of your springs you negate proper functioning of the LSPV for additional load and will result in too little braking at the rear. This is further undermined by larger tyres. Getting rid, fitting a bias valve and properly setting up ensures you have best possible braking for your load and tyre size.

Personally I disagree with this. The lspv is simply a proportioning valve. You can set it to whatever proportion you want just like a non load sensing proportion valve. The only difference is that it adjusts proportion if the suspension is at droop or compressed. Which, no matter what springs you run, those springs will allow for droop or compression.

 

[bug616]

Personally I disagree with this. The lspv is simply a proportioning valve. You can set it to whatever proportion you want just like a non load sensing proportion valve. The only difference is that it adjusts proportion if the suspension is at droop or compressed. Which, no matter what springs you run, those springs will allow for droop or compression.

 

[Gigem96]

Welded Brake Fitting.

Yeap, your pictures look correct. You will need to test the manual proportioning valve. I marked the "W" with fingernail polish on mine so I could count the number of rotations. Full open is a bad idea.
View attachment 3818296

Thanks! I’ll try to knock it out in the morning. I’ll def do the dirt road test and dial in of the rears. I have all new brake gear front and back so I need to learn its behavior. I tried to rebuild the LSPV but it quickly blew out the piston again. Too pitted from corrosion. So going this route.