LSPV / Brake Valve Adjustment

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1973Guppie

1973Guppie

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I know this has been discussed quite a bit but I am unable to find the necessary specific info.

Recently I noticed that my front brake pads are wearing much faster than the rear. Awhile back I adjusted the valve on the frame down 1/4 an inch. I believe I need to extend the bracket that bolts to the rear diff upward. Can anyone tell me how many inches to extend this upward for a J lift? I plan to make a simple bracket out of strap here in the garage. Would like to just get close in order to make the brakes work better overall. I saw that dobinsons sells a bracket but if I can make one myself and have the right dimensions that would be all I need. Thanks all.
 
Ours comes with the instructions on how to set it.... :clap:
 
mudgudgeon said:
Can't help with the bracket, but it may be worth checking the valve is operational and clear internally. I had one fully seize up due to a lack of PM from the PO
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thx, how do you know it is functional, I pushed on the bottom tonight and not much movement, should the boot on the bottom of the lspv move a certain distance if working correctly, when pushed on?
 
1973Guppie said:
thx, how do you know it is functional, I pushed on the bottom tonight and not much movement, should the boot on the bottom of the lspv move a certain distance if working correctly, when pushed on?
Click to expand...

I couldn't get a decent shot of brake fluid out of the rear brakes when bleeding brakes .with it pushed all the way up
 
Keep in mind that raising the LSPV attachment point on the rear diff by a few inches will allow contact to the upper control arm when the axle flexes on the left side. This will bend the arm.
 
It doesn't do anything beneficial on these vehicles so why relocate it? Cut the rod off, strap it in the "up" position and remove all the parts attached to the rear axle housing. An even better solution is to eliminate it completely like
 
I have been reading today and considered deleting all the abs and everything but I feel like that might be too much at this point. I am going to start with deleting the lspv. My front pads are almost gone and my rear pads have never even been replaced since I owned the truck starting in 2008. My brakes have just never been good on this truck. After some thought to me it makes no sense to cut the rod and relocate it etc as you are basically making the lspv 100% open at that point correct? giving full fluid to the rear brakes. At that point you might as well just delete the lspv. I am thinking I am going to remove it and plug the sense line opening at the abs unit. I plan to just use a union. Any thoughts? From what I have read I don't think I need to use a adjustable valve but I may as I think I have one on hand in the shop. I figure this way I can completely remove it and always go back if needed as everything will be non permanent modifications.
 
mudgudgeon said:
I couldn't get a decent shot of brake fluid out of the rear brakes when bleeding brakes .with it pushed all the way up
Click to expand...

thanks, when you pushed inward / upward on the bottom of the lspv, how much movement did you get. I was playing with it yesterday and I could literally not get it to move at all. I figure if it is working as a valve there should be some movement upward and downward as the rod gets bent or released? I am thinking maybe the lspv just does not work at this point and cutting the rod and / or moving the rod upward is really just telling the lspv to be wide open, same as if I were to delete it anyhow. Overall a cleaner solution is to just delete it and put a adj valve in there.
 
also, when bypassing and removing the lspv is it best to remove the sensing line completely or does it not matter? I see the easiest thing to do is probably just add a 3 way union there, rebend the lines and hook it up. I have read a few threads where people keep the return/sensing line and others delete that as well? wondering if there is any difference to keeping or deleting it?
 
Dragos80 said:
I would leave the ABS alone. Not a big fan of skates. LSPV? Throw it out the window. Really! At a Prius preferably.
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yes after alot of reading it sounds as if the lspv is the problem. Is there any need to keep the bottom line on the lspv intact and working? I have a proportioning valve on hand that I can use. I might as well use it and have the adjustability. I will then just plug the T at the drivers side front fender with a plug from napa. I am hoping they have a plug that will fit.
 
I am usually going from one extreme to the other.

While I advocate for ABS, I could not care less about the valve. Either use the lever to open it completely, or if your crafty take it out completely and do some magic with those lines.

You can "bleed" the ABS unit by performing a series of on/off pavement hard brakes to activate the unit. Of course both sides preferably and a few times. Then rebelled the entire system. Rinse and repeat.
But replace the front brakes first, of course.
 
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tore into the brakes this week, the front pads were very thin and the rear brakes were basically untouched, meaning my rear brakes have not been doing anything for quite some time now. Plan is to remove the lspv stuff completely and put in a manual valve. At this point with all the weight I carry and 3 inch lift, bigger tires etc the lspv is just not functional at all. I am hoping removing it will regain some braking power. Will update this thread with results. Picking up new calipers and new rear ebrake shoes tomm. I want everything new and fresh and functional going forward.
 
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