LSD v.s Lockers

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Cruiserdrew said:
Mace-I have to disagree. I have been running ARBs on my FJ40 for 5 years and my 80 series for 4 years. They ARE the premier option. Open if you want and locked when you need. What isn't to like. They are stronger than a stock diff and transparent when not locked. They are the best of both worlds. When locked, there is no difference between a locked ARB and a spool, plus, you can unlock the thing for on road handling or better turning in high traction spots. I leave the ARBs off 98% of the time, but the other 2% they make all the difference.

As you can tell, I think ARBs are great. A good install is CRITICAL. There are no downsides to an ARB except the expense. If you want cheap-weld the diff. Otherwise, the ARBs are a good investment.

ARB's do have a down side... they are an open diff when not fully locked. i love the way my detroit improved the driveability of my 40. and detroits strengthen the carrier too.

if your staying unlocked 98% of the time, maybe you and i are wheeling very different terrain.

i'm with mace, i love auto unlockers.
 
I currently run both.
Another thing (aside from useage) to consider is tire size.

My Auburn worked well with the 34x9.5 swampers, but hardly works at all with my 38's. I have an autolocker in the rear.

With my Auburn I ran lucas LSD fluid and it helped with better engaging, but it still relys on wheel spin and both tires having a good base.

Counting on wheel spin with 38's= breakage. With a true locker (ARB, Auto, spool) you do not need the wheel spin just to engage the traction device.

Light wheeling and sub 35" tires and the LSD is a decent choice. They are now getting close to an ARB in price, however. They also both need to be set up by pulling the diff and the ring gear. For the cost of an installed ARB or LSD, you could lock both ends. An autolocker is a 1-2 hour job in your driveway. Just an FYI.
 
My 2 pesos.....

LSD = limited traction. Don't waste your time on an LSD.

ARB is very reliable. I ran one in my FJ40 for over 5 years without 1 failure.
Having a reputable shop do the install IS the key. Don't let 4 wheel parts holesalers install anything on your cruiser.

I have a detroit in my front D60 axle, I will be going to an ARB when I get a chance. I like the idea of being open which allows for better turning radius.
I'm not convinced that detroit is stronger than a ARB in an D60.
 
Detroits do not like it when lock outs, axle joints or axle shafts fail:
Detroit01.webp
Detroit02.webp
Detroit03.webp
 
The shock load shears off the tiny little locking teeth....then you get to tear it all down again, and drop 150.00us for the new pieces to put junk back in your diff....

None for me, thanks.
Detroit04.webp
Detroit05.webp
 
Arb's are starting to do the same thing, I have heard of 3 Toy ARB's grenading when the shafts let go..


ARB's are a very strong unit tho, and probably stronger than a detroit....
 
I don't have an LSD nor a locking front diff... but I'd rather install an LSD up front than any autolocker.

But!
I spend a LOT of time in 4wd. Miles and miles and miles every week. On "roads" that are very muddy/sandy/rutted.

I use my rear ARB more often in 2wd than four... it is often just what I need to get out of a very mild stuck situation or a soft shoulder, without jumping out to lock the hubs.

When in 4wd, I wouldn't want a fully locked front because I worry that at 35mph on a muddy, but fairly firm gravel road, I would think a locked front would be a little difficult to drive.

So it all comes down to how you use your vehicle. For rocks and low-speed wheeling, a locker up front might be perfect. For very muddy roads and/or icy roads, I think a selectable rear locker and an LSD up front is a pretty good setup.

For example: these three pics were all taken on *major* roads where 4wd is sometimes necessary, but a front autolocker (or even a rear autolocker) could get a little sketchy
avellanaroad.jpg

misty.jpg

river.jpg
 
Or Well My Opinion On The LSD Is I Will Never Buy Again, I Have A Detriot True Trac That I Used In My Mini Truck. Went To Moab Once, And Only Time It Work Is If Both Wheels Where Touching The Ground, Or Both Had Some Grip On The Rock.

So I Took It Out And Put Back In My Welded Spiders And Have Not Had A Problem Since....

I Soon Will Be Getting A Spool When I Get A Chance To Order It.
 
Limited slips suck..

A Buddy has one in the front of his Dana 44, Claims he can control the Limited slip by using the brake on the wheel that is spinning..

He Breaks Axle shafts/Hubs all the time..
 
Mace said:
Arb's are starting to do the same thing, I have heard of 3 Toy ARB's grenading when the shafts let go..


Support this please.



Would be very interested in reading if it was collateral damage from the axle shaft pieces or the locking mechanism letting go.




If you have links to threads with pics on another board, please post them up.


Thanks.


:beer:
 
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I'll go look

But it was from the shaft breaking..
 
When my rear axle broke 2 years ago, it damaged the collar that holds the o-rings and made the locker non-functional. Not the ARBs fault, though!
 
Mace said:
I'll go look

But it was from the shaft breaking..



Well if the axle shaft fails at an angle, it is going to try and be in the same place as another peiece….ever ejected the lock out cap off from a broken outer? Ever seen than?


If the same thing happened with the axle where it engages the side gears, then it was damaged from use after the failure, and not from the metal under tension, and letting go, like the shredded teeth on the Detroit.



:beer:
 
The Detroit failure pictured above was a stock inner axle letting go on Millers buggy... HP Toy 8"....




Anyone know of a Chromo drive slug/caps for Toy axles? I know Long has the Chromo lock out gear....
 
I know what you are saying, it was attributed to the shaft snapping, not afterwards...

Shockloads killed them..
 
Lookin ;)
 
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