LRA aux tank and slight gas smell

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

....

1) A normal operating fuel system should generally not see the fuel boiling. ....

Here I wonder if it's boiling or just under too much pressure?
 
So I'll ask the group again - if this valve is suspect, what part assembly can be put in to replace it? So that at least I can rule out some kind of mechanical failure of that specific valve?


it looks like it is build into the evap.

this is what it said to test.

100 vent.JPG
 
I think there's some things that maybe useful to clarify.

1) A normal operating fuel system should generally not see the fuel boiling. Other than the extreme elevation and crawling situation. Outside of an installation error, this would suggest there's a thermal management problem under the chassis where more heat than normal is finding its way into the gas tank. Consider radiator airflow and fans at the grill, to airflow under the vehicle. And exhaust heat sources, including the muffler proximity to the aux tank, and muffler tip pointing. I know in the 100-series, later model years removed an aux condenser fan, so it's possible there's more likelihood of heat soak at idle and low speeds.

2) Evap system is to absorb normal fuel vapors. It's not designed to handle excessive boiling vapors. The root of boiling is not because of an evap system fault, see #1. The evap system is normally open to atmosphere during engine operation to equalize vacuum from fuel being drawn down. It will also cycle depending on vapor pressure. Into building pressure to suppress vapor pressure and boiling. If the system is constantly under pressure and preventing fill, again, look at #1

3) The whole system has a detailed self check. If there's a VSV failing, you would know it by way of check engine light. If there's a CEL, lookup the code and it should give a better clue of what to diagnose. The main VSVs are the purge valve and breather valve.
Thanks for the clarifications. I'm really grateful to everyone here for their contributions.
 
Here I wonder if it's boiling or just under too much pressure?

Maybe restating a few ways could help?

Added heat into the fuel system, to the extent of boiling, is what causes pressure. That is the root issue. Heated fuel generates more vapor pressure. Boiling fuel causes a lot of vapor pressure.

Pressure does not create heat. Pressure can be helpful as it actually suppresses vapor pressure and increases the boiling temperature of fuel. Pressure in itself does not heat or boil fuel, and therefore is not the root issue.

Pressure is a symptom of overheated fuel. Not the other way around.
 
it looks like it is build into the evap.
I had a brand new evap canister installed on my 3rd round. All with the same end results, FYI.
 
Once again…reports of Utah fuel doing this is the strangely common denominator.. I’ve had boiling gas about 8 or 9 times over the years (both after and BEFORE LRA), and without exception, its been in Utah…including moderate altitude, non-climbs, and moderate temps (but in high temps and steep climbs more common(.

In contradt… In Californua…blasting up mountains near Stockton when its 112 degrees at altitude? Nothing. -No boiling. My own local desert in serious heat… nothing. But out on the flats at highway speed in Utah? Boiling like crazy.

Need to make a poll where people entder the state their fuel is from… From my own rough observations, its massively tilted toward Utah…despite cColorado and California also having hot, high altitude drives.
 
Last edited:
How about this most important question: What are the shops in the Pacific NW, or Mountain West if I have to, who would be interested in helping me find a solution. I'm not a mechanic, I have no space to work on the vehicle, and I have only the most rudimentary understanding of these fuel/evap systems. My original installer isn't interested (justifiably) because they don't think they can improve my results, my dealership-based LC specialist said that he can't any longer be involved in a research/R&D project, and I even gave Slee Offroad a call and they said they are not putting LRAs in 100's anymore, nor interested in working on them, until the distributor and the Aussie's can resolve these issues. I'm up s*** creek. I have no paddle.
 
Add aux electric fan to cool the tank(s) and or lines and components?
 
Maybe restating a few ways could help?

Added heat into the fuel system, to the extent of boiling, is what causes pressure. That is the root issue. Heated fuel generates more vapor pressure. Boiling fuel causes a lot of vapor pressure.

Pressure does not create heat. Pressure can be helpful as it actually suppresses vapor pressure and increases the boiling temperature of fuel. Pressure in itself does not heat or boil fuel, and therefore is not the root issue.

Pressure is a symptom of overheated fuel. Not the other way around.


Well I was thinking if that evap hose it not routed correctly and has been routed to the filler instead of the atmosphere, then there is no escape for the pressure.

So I was thinking 1 of 2 things is going on.
If the Evap line is routed wrong Even if the valve is working and opens it is going to open the evap line to the enclosed filler area. Then no escape for the pressure.
or 2. The Evap line is routed correctly but the valve is not working.

Since he installed a new evap box, likely #1. Evap line routed incorrectly.

Even if the fuel was "hot" I would look at that as a 2nd issue .. and the pressure should still escape if the evap line is routed correctly and the valve is working correctly.

That is my understanding of it.
 
I have not had fuel boil .. Cali, Nevada, Baja up and down mountains. Several aux fuel systems LRA and TransferFlow.

I have seen fuel spray when the evap line is hooked up wrong.
 
Do you have any install pics showing the lines?
Have you considered replacing with an oem sub tank?
Have you considered removing the 2nd tank and reverting to stock.
Have you replaced all the stock vent lines (maybe one is clogged)?
How much is a stock main tank? Maybe consider this?
What’s the chassis code on your 100? I want to look at a parts diagram and try to understand the stock routing.
 
I have not had fuel boil .. Cali, Nevada, Baja up and down mountains. Several aux fuel systems LRA and TransferFlow.

I have seen fuel spray when the evap line is hooked up wrong.

Yes. Same. Never in CA, Baja, or Nevada. Nor Canada, OR, WA, CO, OH, AZ, NM, TX, WY, WI, ID, MO.

Just Utah 8-9 times.
 
Last edited:
Would using premium fuel in the Aux tank help prevent boiling or vapors during the summer? If pure gas gas is available, would this be the best aux tank option?
 
Would using premium fuel in the Aux tank help prevent boiling or vapors during the summer? If pure gas gas is available, would this be the best aux tank option?
I don’t believe the octane makes much difference as long you are dealing with conventional gasoline from a filling station.

Race fuel will be different - there are wildly different blends. It is possible to buy unleaded race fuel that has the same spec as AVGas (see next paragraph).

AVGas (aviation fuel) is specifically designed to be resistant to boiling (pressure at high altitude is much lower) however almost all of it is leaded and will destroy your catalyst and O2 sensors. We run AVGas in everything that doesn’t have a catalyst.

As far as regional gas variations - I am not a petroleum guy but I believe it has due with what hydrocarbons are used to make up gasoline - some are more resistant to vaporizing than others.

The times the bubbling has happened to me I just let it go until it ceased. Phase change cooling is very effective.
 
While I don't know that regular octane fuel is the issue here, I will say that in my limited anecdotal experience, higher octane fuel resists vaporizing better. There's probably a term for this I don't know.

When I first started keeping a rotopax on my roof during long trips I would fill it with 87 octane need to vent it daily. One trip I was coming from Denver to Ouray and was going to stop in Jefferson, CO for gas; however the only gas stations in town were permanently closed at the time. I pulled the rotopax off the roof to add to the tank and fuel sprayed out when I cracked it open. I would've called it "boiling" but I'm not actually sure that's a true statement. Regardless the temp and elevation was a problem.

The last 2 years when I've taken trips I've put 93 octane from my local Shell station here near Chicago in the rotopax before leaving (10% ethanol mix). On a 5 week trip last year I vented it maybe 3 or 4 times. It would bulge a bit sometimes but never boiled or sprayed out. Maybe it's the octane rating, maybe it's the Chicago gas mix, who knows? Keep in mind the rotopax is sitting on the roof so (1) it gets direct sun baking it all day, and (2) any air in it get spread across the entire container (similar to a gas tank) instead of the usual vertical 'pax mount where only the top has an air gap.

The only time I've ever noticed gas vapors coming out of the cap I was running 87 octane and towing up into the mountains in Grand Mesa, CO. I stopped for a photo op as I was approaching 10,000' and I could smell gas. That was a few years ago. This summer I ran premium in my tank while I was in Moab last August. I did White Rim over 2 days (about 100 miles) normal driving around town, plus a couple hours on Fins N Things, and I never had any gas boiling issues. But this is all extremely anecdotal of course.

Again for the regularity you're seeing this problem I'm not suggesting your issue is regular vs premium. However if anyone is only occasionally seeing this problem, particularly at high elevations (or in Moab) I'd suggest at least trying to switch to the highest octane fuel you can find for those trips.
 
Once again…reports of Utah fuel doing this is the strangely common denominator.. I’ve had boiling gas about 8 or 9 times over the years (both after and BEFORE LRA), and without exception, its been in Utah…including moderate altitude, non-climbs, and moderate temps (but in high temps and steep climbs more common(.

In contradt… In Californua…blasting up mountains near Stockton when its 112 degrees at altitude? Nothing. -No boiling. My own local desert in serious heat… nothing. But out on the flats at highway speed in Utah? Boiling like crazy.

Need to make a poll where people entder the state their fuel is from… From my own rough observations, its massively tilted toward Utah…despite cColorado and California also having hot, high altitude drives.

Yes. Same. Never in CA, Baja, or Nevada. Nor Canada, OR, WA, CO, OH, AZ, NM, TX, WY, WI, ID, MO.

Just Utah 8-9 times.

I have it most times I go to colorado and do the high passes, on a totally stock fuel system. I can't remember if there is a correlation to getting ethanol-free fuel in durango.. not that there is, or isn't. I just can't remember.

This is only tangentially related, but shows how regional differences in fuel can be present. In common rail TDI VWs there was a rash of high pressure fuel pump failures, and this was attributed to the diesel lubricity standard in the US barely hitting Bosch's requirements, as compared to europe where it was exceeded, and almost no HPFP failures. As people analyzed the data they found that very generally speaking, the closer you were to a coast, the less likely you were to have a pump failure. Live in the interior? More common.

Which simply shows fuel can change properties, additives, and composition by region. Not to mention for emissions reasons in states like california with such tight regulation on evaporative emissions.
 
Yes. Same. Never in CA, Baja, or Nevada. Nor Canada, OR, WA, CO, OH, AZ, NM, TX, WY, WI, ID, MO.

Just Utah 8-9 times.


Interesting ... I noticed that only Utah allows E15 vs E10 in the gasoline and possibly that higher percentage of Ethanol is the cause?

Not all places in Utah put in E15 but many cities do.

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom