LRA 40 Gallon aux tank

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I am getting an LRA tank installed in about a month. What are the "mandatory" upgrades I should tell my installer about?
GREAT question. Best I have been able to parse out is:

1 - the included fuel pump isn’t great.
2 - the hose and fittings may or may not be fine
3 - 12/24 gal doesn’t need a skid; 40 gal may if you “wheel on hard rocks”
4 - LRA is great with getting back to you on technical questions. They have limited insight on what installers have upgraded to specifically, save for fuel pump (precision pump from oreilley, etc)
5 - use a larger diameter breather hose to facilitate faster refueling and mimimize issue with sensitive fueling station equipment. And get a universal air filter for your breather hose to be placed above the new filler neck.

I hope this gets a good start on your questions. If I have specifics on fittings, I’ll gladly pass it along. I’m in the same boat with an install to be done shortly.
 
I am getting an LRA tank installed in about a month. What are the "mandatory" upgrades I should tell my installer about?
@gasman4u pretty much hit the nail on the head.

I’ll second the armor for the tank and add rhino lining. We did both, as well as what was mentioned above, and have bounced the tank off something already. It does hang down a fair amount and even if you don’t do anything crazy off road, it’s nice insurance to have. I wouldn’t consider ourselves hard on the trail but it’s nice to know we aren’t going in raw… so to speak.

I’ll add that even with the breather upgrades we still have issues getting in the full 40 gallons. Idk if I’m not getting 100% out or can’t get it all in but I let the transfer pump run until it shuts itself off which should ensure an empty as possible LRA. Filling up it will take 35-37.5 gallons and this has appeared to be dependent on ambient temps… the colder it is the more will go in. Just an interesting phenomenon I’ve encountered.
 
I am getting an LRA tank installed in about a month. What are the "mandatory" upgrades I should tell my installer about? Just a faster pump at a min?

Check out: Upgraded pump info for LRA? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/upgraded-pump-info-for-lra.1291862/

This thread has some options for fuel pumps that are above the LRA included pump. I will be going with either a Holley or precision pump fuel pump for mine.

Hopefully, I am going to have a seamless install and can give a more detailed breakdown of what was used, etc so anyone who picks this up in the future can easily have a rough idea where to start. As it is, I am having a tough time getting details from installers (think Slee, Ed Martin) don't want to give out specific products/fittings they use. Not that I can blame them, but having my install done at their location is not an option given my location.
 
I would suggest to high loop the breather to reduce the amount of moisture it pulls in when driving. Over time, there's evidence that the breather can pull in water/moisture which corrodes the breather VSV.


1661182449929-png.3093944
 
I would suggest to high loop the breather to reduce the amount of moisture it pulls in when driving. Over time, there's evidence that the breather can pull in water/moisture which corrodes the breather VSV.


1661182449929-png.3093944
I'm on board with the loop, but honestly don't get how this would reduce moisture. Anything you could share to help increase understanding would be much appreciated.
 
I'm on board with the loop, but honestly don't get how this would reduce moisture. Anything you could share to help increase understanding would be much appreciated.
I'm on board with the loop, but honestly don't get how this would reduce moisture. Anything you could share to help increase understanding would be much appreciated.
@TeCKis300 is this similar to a drip loop for wiring for houses? Or just as simple as mitigating SOME of the moisture that would otherwise continue straight down the line vs going back to/through the filter?
 
@TeCKis300 is this similar to a drip loop for wiring for houses? Or just as simple as mitigating SOME of the moisture that would otherwise continue straight down the line vs going back to/through the filter?

Exactly this. Under normal driving, the breather is open with a low volume draw on the vent tube. In the upright position, it would readily pull down water with gravity and suction through the mushroom filter. High loop and inverting removes gravity as an ingest factor, but makes it work to also minimize water otherwise pulled in with suction.

This is probably really important for wet regions IMO. As even I in a relatively arid region lost a charcoal canister due to corrosion from moisture.
 
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