lQUOTE NOW IN for leather seat group buy

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OK by "popular" request here are some details on installation. As an aside, I would be grateful if people would not contact these places directly if you plan to participate in a group buy. One of the incentives to offer a good price for a group buy is that it cuts down on the administrative costs of a sale, but that does not happen if 20 people call up to individually confirm the details. If you have a question, ask me and I'll ask and post the answer for everyone.

That said, the Installation kit includes hog ring pliers and hog rings for $19 plus glue for $16. You don't need the glue unless you are installaing side panels or the centre console. Here is the installation info they provided:

Installation Guide

If you’re reading this, it is safe to say that you have chosen to install your own interior. Or, perhaps you’re curious as to the difficulty level of installing a leather interior. Either way, this comprehensive guide to leather installation will make your installation as easy as 123.

First, the tools you will need to install the interior. In addition to standard mechanics tools (wrenches, ratchets, extensions, sockets, screwdrivers, etc.), you will need the following:

Upholstery glue

Hog-Rings

Hog Ring Pliers

Scissors


The first step to install your new leather interior is to remove your seats from the vehicle.

Front Seats:
On most vehicles, each of the front seats are held in by four (4) bolts. Simply remove the bolts, and tip the seat backwards to check for electrical connections. Almost every seat will have some wiring harnesses on the bottom connecting to the floor of the vehicle. Unplug the connectors, and then remove the seat from the vehicle. Make sure to save all bolts, screws, and other parts for reassembly.

Back Seats:
On most vehicles, the back seat requires that you remove the cushion (bottom section) first. There are a few different methods that vehicle manufacturers use to attach the cushion. On most vehicles there are two (2) bolts or clips that hold the front of the cushion to the floor. Unbolt or unclip the front of the cushion, and remove the cushion from the vehicle. Once the cushion is removed, the bolts for removing the seat back are visible. There are usually four (4) bolts that hold the bottom of the seat back to the floor of the vehicle. If your vehicle has a folding armrest, there are usually additional bolts behind the armrest as well. After all the bolts are removed, slide the seat back upwards and remove it from the vehicle. Make sure to save all bolts, screws, and other parts for reassembly.

The second step is to remove the factory cloth or leather.

Front Seats:
For almost all applications, the first step is to remove all of the plastic hardware from the seats. Most vehicles have Phillips screws that hold the plastic trim pieces to the seat. Make sure you mark which screws go where, as the screws are normally different lengths.

Seat Cushion (bottom):

After all the trim pieces are removed, flip the seat upside down, so the bottom of the cushion is facing you. There are normally four (4) bolts that hold the seat cushion pan to the seat frame. Remove those bolts and remove the seat cushion pan from the seat. There are either J-hooks or hog-rings that hold the edge of the factory cloth/leather to the seat cushion pan. Remove these, and fold the factory cloth/leather up towards the center of the seat, revealing the insert seam lines. The inserts use either hog-rings or Velcro to attach the covers to the foam core. If hog-rings are used, snip them and remove the cover. If Velcro is used, simply pull on the cover to separate it from the foam, being careful that the Velcro strip in the foam core doesn’t rip away from the foam. If applicable, you may need to transfer the listing wires from the factory cover to the Leatherseats.com cover. The installation of the Leatherseats.com covers is the reverse of removal. Start with the inserts, and then move to the edges. After you have recovered the foam core and seat pan, set it aside and start on the backrest.

Backrest (top):

First, remove the headrest and set it aside. On most vehicles, the headrest can be removed by holding down the release button, and pulling the headrest out. After the headrest is removed, flip the seat upside down again.

If your seat has soft vinyl backs, you will see J-hooks or hog-rings holding the covers together. Undo the J-hooks (or snip the hog-rings) and start to roll the cover up. There will be hog-rings or Velcro holding the insert seam lines to the foam. Remove the hog-rings as you roll the cover up over the seat.

If your seat has a hard back, there will be a series of screws along the bottom that hold the bottom of the hard back to the seat. Unscrew these, and then open the hard back slightly to determine if they slide up or down to be removed. Slide the back the appropriate way, and remove it. Now, you should be able to see the attachment points holding the factory seat cover to the frame. Undo these attachments, and pull the cover up and over the foam seat back core. The cover should be loose, so if it feels like it is caught on something, you probably missed an attachment somewhere.

When you get to the headrest posts, simply work the covers around the posts one at a time until the covers are removed. You may need to trim the factory covers slightly, making it easier to slip the top of the headrest post through the hole in the cover. The installation of the Leatherseats.com covers is the reverse of removal. Start with the cover inside out, and align the seams with the edges of the foam. Start to roll the cover down, and attach the hog-rings as you come to them. After you reach the bottom, close the zipper, or reattach your hard back. Reinstall the recovered seat cushion and pan assembly (from above) and reattach your plastic hardware. You will need to cut holes for the headrest posts as well as any levers/switches that are now covered by the new leather. Cut small slits and work the leather around the headrest posts and any levers/switches that need to be exposed. Tuck the excess leather underneath the headrest posts/levers/switches.

Headrest:

The headrests are easy! This is your “break time” in the installation. The bottoms of the headrests are connected with J-hooks. Simply unhook these and roll the headrest cover back to reveal the foam. To install the Leatherseats.com leather, start with it inside out, and line up the seams to the edges of the foam. Then roll the cover down, and connect the J-hooks. If you have difficulty rolling the covers over the foam, you can wrap the foam in a plastic bag, and using a “shop vac” compress the foam to make it easier to cover the headrest. Slide the headrest into the re-upholstered seat, and you’re finished with the front seat! Repeat this process for the other front bucket and you’re finished with the front row!

Backseat:

The backseat on most vehicles is very easy. Unlike the front buckets, normally the only hardware to remove is the center armrest and a few clips that hold the lever to release the seat back.

Cushion: The cushion is the easier of the two sections in the backseat. Start with the cushion upside down, and work your way around the cushion sniping hog-rings or unhooking the j-hooks. After you have removed all the attachments around the perimeter of the cushion, fold the cushion up to reveal the inserts. Snip the hog-rings for the inserts, and remove the cover. Installation is the reverse of removal. It is best to start with the Leatherseats.com cover inside-out and hog-ring the inserts first. When you get to the edges, simply fold the cover over the foam. Then, hog-ring the perimeter of the cushion where the factory attachment points are and you’re finished!

Backrest:

If applicable, remove the armrest from the backrest. It is normally held on by a few bolts on the backside of the foam. Be careful to note how the hardware fits together. Some vehicles have a certain order in which washers, bearings, shims, etc. go together to make the armrest fold. After the armrest is removed, remove the factory cloth/leather from the armrest. It is very similar to the headrests, and often easier then the headrests. There should be J-hooks on the back of the armrest. Un-hook them and slide the cover off. To install the Leatherseats.com armrest cover, simply start with the cover inside out, line up the seams at the tip of the armrest, and roll the cover over. Hook the new J-hooks together, and set it aside. Now, remove the cover on the backrest. Around the perimeter of the backside of the seat, there are hog-rings that attach the factory cover to the foam. Snip the hog-rings and then roll the cover off the foam to reveal the insert hog-rings. Snip these hog-rings and the cover should fall off of the foam. If applicable, swap the factory listing wires to the Leatherseats.com cover. Installation is the reverse of removal. Start with the cover inside-out, and hog-ring the inserts first. Then roll the cover over the corners and hog-ring the perimeter in the factory locations. Re-install the armrest, and you’re finished!

The final step is to put everything back into the car. It is generally easier to install the rear seat first. Be careful when installing the front seats that you don’t scrape any plastic or the door panels with the bottom of the seat, as the seat rails are sharp and will damage any plastic or vinyl they come in contact with. After the seats are re-installed, it is a good idea to condition the leather and massage any wrinkles that are in the leather. After sitting in the sun for a few weeks, the leather will begin to shrink and will actually form itself to the foam, creating a wrinkle free install. To keep your leather looking new, refer to our Leather Care guide located HERE.
 
I'm very interested in having the front seats of our 93 recovered. From the word go, any idea how long it will take to get the covers made?
 
turnaround is 10-14 days once they have the pattern
 
The 93-94 leather seats are the same shape as 95-up and the grey OEM covers apply to 93-97 inclusive. Oak came on board in 95.

For comparison's sake. OEM cushion and back covers for the FRONT seats would set a board member back $1,770.22 AFTER the discount is applied.
 
I am in. need the two front seats only for a 1995. Tan interior.

How do we handle the payment?


Vince
 
OK, I have clarified with a certain learned individual the following seat information:

1. 93-97 leather seats are an identical pattern.
2. 93-94 cloth and 95-97 cloth seats are different

This means www.leatherseats.com already has a pattern ready to go for all oem leather replacements, they just don't know it yet. We are now free to choose either supplier depending on price and features. If I don't get any feedback on which is preferable I will make an executive decision.

Also, for Moj and anyone else who suspects they don't have a standard OEM leather seat be aware of the following:

A: The stock cloth seats are manual adjustment, the stock leather seats are power. If you have power leather seats it is not a cloth conversion.

B. Toyota never did cloth to leather conversions and never installed any other seats at port or otherwise (although it is possible a dealer or PO did).

If in doubt I suggest you post a photo of a seat showing the control panel and we will tell you if it is stock or not. Also, my seat has Toyota part #s on the bottom so you could always take a look under there with a flashlight.
 
Just so I'm clear. This is leather upholstery that will replace the leather that is currently installed. Not covers that go over the original leather. Correct?
 
correct. make the old stuff into a coat.
 
No can do at this time. My leather seat cover budget was just grenaded by last minute flights back east.
 
I have cloth but at some point (read: when we have kids) I would like to put leather in the Cruiser...so I am reading just for information sake. After going to the http://www.leatherseats.com/ site I am curious about something...

You list the group buy price as:
-two front bucket seats: 10 orders = $499, 20 orders = $479.
-add second row $724 for 10, $699 for 20 (comes with 4 leather door panel inserts)

Their price list from their site is:
-One Row Seating (includes: dual buckets, or 40/20/40, or 60/40, or straight bench seating) $579
-Two Row Seating (includes: dual front buckets w/ rear bench, or dual bench) $679
-Oversized SUV Seating (includes: dual front buckets w/ rear bench, or dual bench) $679
-Three Row Seating (includes: dual front buckets w/ center and rear bench, or dual front buckets with dual center buckets and rear bench) $899

So...for front seats only with the group buy your saving between $80 and $100....but if you add the second row...the group buy seems to be $20 - 45 more?

Is it the door panel cost that is included with the group buy but not the other?

And...incase I happen to come in the $$ to do this now...what is the group buy cost for all three rows w/ 4 door panels?

I understand the installation tools ect are all extra...

Thanks for doing the leg work!

DC

***EDIT***
I do realize that it says on their site, "Pricing will vary according to make and model. "
 
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When I checked with them they quoted me $779 for the first 2 rows. I beleive that their pricing for the first 2 rows for any SUV starts at $679. HTH, Greg.
 
I,m in for a front set. 1993, Gray
Bill
 
Good to see some interest being generated. Let's keep it coming so we can at least get an order of ten!!

TX_TLC keep in mind the price I have is leather replacing leather not leather replacing cloth, so I would have to check if the price is the same or not. That being said to answer your question it is $909 for 10 buyers, $879 for 20 orders to get a full three row replacement set including jump seats. So far as I can tell you only get the 4 door inserts for free if you get two rows.

I agree the price for extra rows seems lower on the website but many vehicles don't require seat backs for the second row so I assume that is the reason.
 
Sorry, I can't right now...
 
I would definately be up for the front buckets in the future. Maybe, the Holiday season is kind of a bad time for many. If I knew I had a 3-4 month time frame to do a little saving for them, I would definately be in.

Buck
 
OK, well if there is any support for the idea of a 3 month lead time for this speak up now. I am definitely not seeing enough support right now to do a group buy of the scale I thought might be possible based on the first post, but I am also hearing that people are broke rather than that the price is an issue. It is just before the yuletide season I guess.

If not then I guess the moral of this story is that landcruiser owners don't love their bling like NSX owners. ;)
 
no can do.
 
Simon,

It appears that you have wasted your time. I suggest the next time you have the "interested parties" put you on retainer before you do the leg-work......:D
 

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