Lower than 5.29s?

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5.29s

5.29's are the lowest you can get for cruisers. On c-clip rearends some grinding is required. Its not too much grinding, unless its a Detroit locker, as the x/pin shft has a large block on the end. For a std x/pin shaft it is only necessary to remove material from 1 tooth, and a little bit off of the two teeth right next too it. I have done this numerous times, and have yet to see a failure as a result of grinding it done properly
 
ringpinion.biz said:
5.29's are the lowest you can get for cruisers. On c-clip rearends some grinding is required. Its not too much grinding, unless its a Detroit locker, as the x/pin shft has a large block on the end. For a std x/pin shaft it is only necessary to remove material from 1 tooth, and a little bit off of the two teeth right next too it. I have done this numerous times, and have yet to see a failure as a result of grinding it done properly
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Are there any treads on this or do you have any pics. it would be nice to know where the teeth have to be ground. Or do you just keep grinding until you can remove the cross pin? I feel a little Leary about taking a grinder to a new set of gears, so it would be nice to see what others have done
 
odtseuss said:
Are there any treads on this or do you have any pics. it would be nice to know where the teeth have to be ground. Or do you just keep grinding until you can remove the cross pin? I feel a little Leary about taking a grinder to a new set of gears, so it would be nice to see what others have done
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Ain't the best, but here are some pictures from when we regeared and ARB'd a '91 FJ80. Those are 4.88s. You pretty much remove just enough to get the pin past the ring.

dscf3132mr0.jpg


dscf3135sk4.jpg
 
Mark W said:
A 91-92 may not be as nifty cool as the '93 and newer, but they are far from s***. The rear drum brakes work just fine, Cruiser SF rears are not exactly prone to failure and they're a lot less maintenance than a FF rear. The 3FE is an excellent motor. The end result of six decades of refinement. It's an easy 400,000 mile motor if cared for. Is the rig a hot rod? Nope. But it was never meant to be. It'll do everything it was designed to do and everything that 99.9999% of the users need it to do. Toss a set of ARBs in there and any difference in performance on the trails will be completely insignificant. And that 3F... Lot simpler and less expensive to service and maintain too.


Mark...
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ya its not s***.. but i am breaking shafts on a FF on 37's. he wants to run 38's with lower R&P's on a SF. that just sounds like a recipe for s***ty trail breaks. I hate to web wheel this to death. I would much rather see alkaline just go wheel but he wants to analyze it to death so here it is. For most rigs its a sweet little rig. but the kid wants to run some big meats, low gears and go do some gnarly trails...
 
NW-sickboy said:
ya its not s***.. but i am breaking shafts on a FF on 37's. he wants to run 38's with lower R&P's on a SF. that just sounds like a recipe for s***ty trail breaks. I hate to web wheel this to death. I would much rather see alkaline just go wheel but he wants to analyze it to death so here it is. For most rigs its a sweet little rig. but the kid wants to run some big meats, low gears and go do some gnarly trails...
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An FF Cruiser axle is a better choice for a rig like an FJ45LWB that is used as it was intended (moderate "wheeling" and lots of very heavy loads). But an SF axle is not much (IF ANY) more likely to snap due to tire size and wheeling stresses than an FF.

I have and I am still running both SF and FF with 39-42 inch tires. IMHO about the only reason to worry about using a FF over a SF is the ability to run 5.29s with no grinding of the teeth.

38s are not really big tires. SF rear under an '80 with a 3FE and even 5.29s (if you are willing to put those in an SF)... No problem.


Mark...
 
Probably good generic info. But That's al mini-truck stuff, not Cruisers.


Mark...


Mark...
 
Mark W said:
An FF Cruiser axle is a better choice for a rig like an FJ45LWB that is used as it was intended (moderate "wheeling" and lots of very heavy loads). But an SF axle is not much (IF ANY) more likely to snap due to tire size and wheeling stresses than an FF.

I have and I am still running both SF and FF with 39-42 inch tires. IMHO about the only reason to worry about using a FF over a SF is the ability to run 5.29s with no grinding of the teeth.

38s are not really big tires. SF rear under an '80 with a 3FE and even 5.29s (if you are willing to put those in an SF)... No problem.


Mark...
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My thought wasnt so much strenght as you CAN get aftermarket shafts for FF, even if you dont go poly shafts trail fix is way easier FF vs SF is it not?
 
SF PP shafts = good ;)
 
NW-sickboy said:
My thought wasnt so much strenght as you CAN get aftermarket shafts for FF, even if you dont go poly shafts trail fix is way easier FF vs SF is it not?
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sure yes .. pretty easy trail replacement with FF axle .. with torque wrench and it's all .. ( sure keep all cone washers .. )
 
NW-sickboy said:
My thought wasnt so much strenght as you CAN get aftermarket shafts for FF, even if you dont go poly shafts trail fix is way easier FF vs SF is it not?
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Trail fix for a broken FF axle is normally easier. Not always. Of course you have the occasional failure due to axle flange studss that you don't have to contend with in the SF. And the occurance of failure of either the SF or the FF is pretty low.
I wouldn't (and don't) loose any sleep worring about my FF axles or my SF axles. IF something breaks, I fix it. No big deal and a rare event anyway. So far over the years I've broken two SF axles and one FF axle/hub. But I've been using them well beyond design parameters when the failures occured and they still couild have been avoided with a little more awareness on my part. (I've been wheeling a lot more SF axles for a lot longer than the FF, so don't jump on the 2:1 ratio.) ;)


Mark...
 
Do you mean that 5.71's dont fit?
 
Correct. Primarily because there are none made.


Mark...
 
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