Lower control arm bolts

[Alexbv]

Just came back from a trip to Death Valley and while airing up I always inspect the steering and suspension hardware. I noticed one of the axle side lower-arm nuts was missing. Luckily one of our friends had a random nut that fit. Is lock tite recommended when I replace the hardware?

 

[jbstrong01]

Always paint mark your nuts/bolts. Check before you wheel and after. If they move you know how much. It's also helpful to see what you have replaced. I am on my second paint pen so a LOT of OEM parts going in!

 

[TexFJ]

If we are being proper, we replace the nuts every time we take the arms off to keep the nuts from backing out. Also, the reason some of the "teeth" are on the nuts vs. the bolts is because of how they are installed on the assembly line (there is no other valid reason). The impact/torque tool they use does not always fit in tight spaces so they compromise and turn the bolts while keeping the nuts still, (there isn't enough friction between bolt and brand new bushing to change the torque spec). Torque values are meant for brand new nuts, hence they may or may not be reliable after aging and re-use.

 

[AN470]

Bumping this. Plan to replace rear control arm bushings tomorrow. It looked tight on the axle end of the lower control arm, so tested it out and couldn't get my 1/2" drive torque wrench to fit on the bolt side of the lower control arm bushing, the shock and axle housing get in the way.

I have new nuts, bolts, and washers. My plan is to torque the nuts (this is the side that has the washer for the rear control arms) and not the bolt. Bolts have the 4 little tabs, nuts do not. Maybe some loctite.

I think that's reasonable?

 

[jonheld]

Bumping this. Plan to replace rear control arm bushings tomorrow. It looked tight on the axle end of the lower control arm, so tested it out and couldn't get my 1/2" drive torque wrench to fit on the bolt side of the lower control arm bushing, the shock and axle housing get in the way.

I have new nuts, bolts, and washers. My plan is to torque the nuts (this is the side that has the washer for the rear control arms) and not the bolt. Bolts have the 4 little tabs, nuts do not. Maybe some loctite.

I think that's reasonable?

Sounds like you have the hardware reversed?
According to the parts diagram, the bolts are on the outside and the nuts are on the inside.
I would absolutely NOT use Locktite.

 

[concretejungle]

why would you not use loctite?

 

[AN470]

The page from the FSM in post#43 is how the hardware is oriented. Not sure why the parts diagram is the opposite. Nuts towards the inside, bolts on the outside. Blue loctite, not red.

 

[jonheld]

The page from the FSM in post#43 is how the hardware is oriented. Not sure why the parts diagram is the opposite. Nuts towards the inside, bolts on the outside. Blue loctite, not red.

That's exactly what I posted. Both diagrams are the same.
Locktite of any kind is not called for in the FSM.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Bumping this. Plan to replace rear control arm bushings tomorrow. It looked tight on the axle end of the lower control arm, so tested it out and couldn't get my 1/2" drive torque wrench to fit on the bolt side of the lower control arm bushing, the shock and axle housing get in the way.

I have new nuts, bolts, and washers. My plan is to torque the nuts (this is the side that has the washer for the rear control arms) and not the bolt. Bolts have the 4 little tabs, nuts do not. Maybe some loctite.

I think that's reasonable?

Loctite or not the torque and tightening of all control arms should be done at ride height not lifted.

 

[concretejungle]

there are a lot of applications that do not call for loctite, the 4 nuts on the bottom of the knuckle as example, but a little blue loctite is a very safe insurance policy IMHO.

 

[ajax1]

If you properly torque no loctite is needed, never had issue with the bottom knuckle bolts either if you, torque to proper spec, and replace studs, nuts and cones.