bluecruiser
SILVER Star
Great, thanks for the update and pictures.
Lower Ball Joints
- Thread starter blinkinlights
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bluecruiser
SILVER Star
I had my drivers side lower ball joint replaced with the Three-Five ball joint while the CV was out for a reboot. It seems to be more solid over bumps due to the reduction in play.
I want to replace the upper joint, also. Anybody have luck pressing the Federal Mogul joints in yet? Much cheaper than a $300 upper arm.
I want to replace the upper joint, also. Anybody have luck pressing the Federal Mogul joints in yet? Much cheaper than a $300 upper arm.
After reading through this thread....Im beginning to suspect that the popping/clunking noise coming from my front end might be related to lower ball joints.
Does anyone have any tips on an easy way to determine if it is the ball joints or something else??
Does anyone have any tips on an easy way to determine if it is the ball joints or something else??
Jack up one side at a time and try to wiggle the tire from 12-6 and 3-9 position.
If there is play they are checking out.
At 3 & 9 you'll get play, if any, from the steering rack and/or steering rack bushings. Yeah it could also be the tie-rod ends but those are tough compared to the rack/rack bushings.
At 6 & 12, and I would use a lever under the tire to aid in pushing up towards 12 o'clock, you should be able to detect play in the ball joint if it exists.
FWIW: I had one ball joint that was completely without lube and rusted; but it did not exhibit "popping" or any noise that was detectable at the driver's position.
Check all your front end components to be everything is tight: Upper and lower knuckle mounts, brake caliper mounts, steering arm mounts, along with upper and lower shock mounts and also the CV's themselves (look for torn and/or leaking boots). And check your anti-sway bar links for tightness and full rubber bushing contact for those popping noises.
At 6 & 12, and I would use a lever under the tire to aid in pushing up towards 12 o'clock, you should be able to detect play in the ball joint if it exists.
FWIW: I had one ball joint that was completely without lube and rusted; but it did not exhibit "popping" or any noise that was detectable at the driver's position.
Check all your front end components to be everything is tight: Upper and lower knuckle mounts, brake caliper mounts, steering arm mounts, along with upper and lower shock mounts and also the CV's themselves (look for torn and/or leaking boots). And check your anti-sway bar links for tightness and full rubber bushing contact for those popping noises.
Jack it up - Remove the tire and see if there is play. Try to move the steering knuckle in various directions. My uppers were so far gone you could pick the steering knuckle up and move it 2-3 inches. The lowers were harder to tell - I used a pry bar to get leverage on the steering knuckle and was able to see movement in the joints. The FSM states there should be zero movement in the balljoints. After nearly $1000 bucks in new uppers and the Three-5's pressed into the lowers, new steering rack and new swaybar bushings I have zero movement and "pop." Spresso is right - make sure every thing down there is tight and not worn. There are a lot of moving parts in the IFS.
I had horrible noise and lots of play on my front end. My truck tracks 100% straight and handles so much better. It was well worth the time and money. Now I'm just hoping my steering rack holds out for another 75,000 miles.
My rack is in the process of getting replaced as this is written. Its gotten more involved as my mechanic has gotten deeper into the project
but I half expected that would be reality. I knew the rack bushings, especially the two on the drivers side/left side as I'd already replaced the passenger side/right side bushing last year, were worn. But no ideal they were as badly worn as they were until I just saw them with the old rack laying on the bench. We are replacing with a brand new rack complete with poly bushings in all three locations.
More to follow...
Another thing to check for suspension rattles up front: The sway bar connectors. Even though I replaced both within the last year with Toyota OEM one side was completely rattling around...it was that worn/shot. So we're trying NAPA units this time around
I also can hear a noise since few day...
It seems to come from the front left
The weird thing is, when I drive above a speed bump, I heard the noise after ("after" not "when") the front wheels hit the bump and noise again after ("after" not "when") the front wheels are back on road
noises appear one seconds after I guess they would be hearable!
I hope this can wait the end of winter...
It seems to come from the front left
The weird thing is, when I drive above a speed bump, I heard the noise after ("after" not "when") the front wheels hit the bump and noise again after ("after" not "when") the front wheels are back on road
noises appear one seconds after I guess they would be hearable!
I hope this can wait the end of winter...
uHu
Bridgeburner
This is a great thread.
Utah, what's the mileage of yours?
Mine seem to be fine, but haven't checked carefully. Trying to find out when to expect trouble.
hoser
SILVER Star
For the record, my spicer ball joints formed a layer of surface rust in no time at all. Does it matter?
INSPECTION OF COMPRESSION LOADED BALL JOINTS
Are upper ball joints available from Toyota for the 4Runner?
jack vehicle up so all pressure is off wheel...then take a second jack and try to lift up on the assembly...if there is play in ball joint you will see it...if you can move and see it by hand then it is really worn.
- Thread starter
- #95
Hey guys...glad that people are having some success with these ball joints. I ended up selling the LC100 before I changed out the ball joints and thus, I have them BNIB for sale for $50 for the pair. I'm in Alberta, Canada so shipping might be an issue for you southern folks.
Greg
Greg
Any idea how much to ship them to Ottawa ON ?
Do lower ball joints have to be replaced in pairs? My mechanic suggested it however only the driver side is an issue. Thoughts?
How long should replacing one lower take? I am thinking of renting the press from napa and doing it myself.
Thanks.
How long should replacing one lower take? I am thinking of renting the press from napa and doing it myself.
Thanks.
Last edited:
They don't have to be, but it makes sense to do them together. Your ride will be off if there is play in one and not in the other.
How long will it take? - It all depends upon your wrenching skills, the tools you are using and how you are going to do it. Keep the lowers attached or remove them?
It tooke me about 4 - 5 hours, to do both, but I completely removed the lower control arm to make sure I could get them pressed in cleanly. I wanted to make sure they were sitting, straight and were not going to fail. My lowers have been in for over a year now with zero issues.
Thanks for all the info. I really want to do this in my driveway and want to know if you think the ball joint can be removed and a new one installed without removing the arm?
I will do the passenger side within 2 weeks of the driver side.
Thanks,
uzj100
I will do the passenger side within 2 weeks of the driver side.
Thanks,
uzj100
