Lower Ball Joint Pro Tip (1 Viewer)

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Smart of you to order the kit(s).

Cruiser Outfitters will send quality parts. The right parts and all the parts you will need. Your parts will come nicely packaged and IF you should ever have questions or concerns, their sales staff are knowledgeable. They get an A++++ rating from me.

I sure like their new web site.

 
Smart of you to order the kit(s).

Cruiser Outfitters will send quality parts. The right parts and all the parts you will need. Your parts will come nicely packaged and IF you should ever have questions or concerns, their sales staff are knowledgeable. They get an A++++ rating from me.
Yup support local business that support our land cruiser community 👍🏻
 
FWIW: I used a C-Clamp at one end of the snap ring and hit the other end with a flat head / hammer to remove the old one (lower BJ only)

Install is just with a hammer tapping it on.

No comment on the upper lol.
 
FWIW: I used a C-Clamp at one end of the snap ring and hit the other end with a flat head / hammer to remove the old one (lower BJ only)

Install is just with a hammer tapping it on.

No comment on the upper lol.

Yep, the lower is no problem.

@2001LC graciously provided a pic of perhaps the best way to remove the Circlip on the lower.

circlip remove lower BJ.JPG
 
Smart of you to order the kit(s).

Cruiser Outfitters will send quality parts. The right parts and all the parts you will need. Your parts will come nicely packaged and IF you should ever have questions or concerns, their sales staff are knowledgeable. They get an A++++ rating from me.

Thanks for the kind words!!!
 
Thanks for the kind words!!!

Just the truth Sir.

You've gone to great pains to offer good products, listen to..and accommodate (where possible) customers requests and build a first class business. I believe that should be recognized. Good Job!
 
Placed the order on Sunday and UPS just made delivery this afternoon.
E272501B-6B64-49E6-81A2-ACCFD0BCCBC2.jpeg


Thanks @flintknapper for the reco, pliers looks and feel solid. At this point I’m just waiting for the ball joint kit.
 
Placed the order on Sunday and UPS just made delivery this afternoon.
View attachment 2320937

Thanks @flintknapper for the reco, pliers looks and feel solid. At this point I’m just waiting for the ball joint kit.


Yes Sir, it's a quality tool. Should last you a lifetime and make what might have been a frustrating job....easy. I like easy. ;)
 
Any other recommendations to separate the upper ball joint shaft from the spindle/knuckle?
4502EE87-D210-4500-A330-A8B3E8F73632.jpeg


I’ve soaked it with PB Blaster for hours and still won’t budge. The two tools I used don’t seem to work.
 
Option 1:

img_1124-jpg.475493


Option 2:

Hit it with hammer here
01-lx470-214k-002-a-jpg.1236237


Option 3:

Hit here with hammer
img_0317-jpg.746374


Option 4:

If you live in a rust belt - grab a beer and hunker down
 
Any other recommendations to separate the upper ball joint shaft from the spindle/knuckle? View attachment 2324370

I’ve soaked it with PB Blaster for hours and still won’t budge. The two tools I used don’t seem to work.
Whack it with a hammer on that flat on knuckle, and it will fall right off.


The concept is that when you strike the side of that steel circle with a sharp blow, it momentarily distorts the shape, so the spindle inside is momentarily loose. The weight of the steering knuckle pulls it right out.
 
Thanks @Eyedaho and @RuskiE39 the whack-the-hammer style did worked, used a sledgehammer.

I rented the clamp press at O’Reilly but the c-clamp is short for the length of the ball joint stud plus the receiver pipe. How did you guys pressed out the upper ball joint? I measured the length of the upper and lower are almost the same. The height of the catcher pipe is too long I guess, if only it was just 1-inch or 1.5-inch I can fit it in.
BA67F11C-DA85-430A-A93A-9C17DF84CEE9.jpeg

I can no longer put in the flange catcher at the lower part of the c-clamp to raise the thread shaft.
 
^ I cut the pin off the UBJ with a grinder. I didn't need to do that with the LBJ because you can flip the press over and have the pin come through the top hole of the press.

here.jpg
 
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Thanks @Eyedaho and @RuskiE39 the whack-the-hammer style did worked, used a sledgehammer.

I rented the clamp press at O’Reilly but the c-clamp is short for the length of the ball joint stud plus the receiver pipe. How did you guys pressed out the upper ball joint? I measured the length of the upper and lower are almost the same. The height of the catcher pipe is too long I guess, if only it was just 1-inch or 1.5-inch I can fit it in.
View attachment 2324598
I can no longer put in the flange catcher at the lower part of the c-clamp to raise the thread shaft.

Glad the hammer option worked. Which option worked best when you got it broken loose? I'm doing my axle next week and will need to remove the UBJ for the first time.

I used the hammer method on my LBJ and was very surprised how quickly and easily it came out.
 
^ I cut the pin off the UBJ with a grinder. I didn't need to do that with the LBJ because you can flip the press over and have the pin come through the top hole of the press.

View attachment 2324635
I’m trying to visualize this may actually work. But how about when you put in the new ball joint?
 
I’m trying to visualize this may actually work. But how about when you put in the new ball joint?

UBJ removal - cut off the pin and it gives you room to push the UBJ up and out into the receiver cup on top.

New UBJ install - you are now pushing down and in. Since you don't need the receiver cup up top any more, you can use the full spread of the jaws to make room for the bottom pin. As long as they have a hole in the middle you can stack cups to accommodate the full length of the new pin. The press orientation is the same, you just use the cups differently.

LBJ removal - you push down and out. Cups on the bottom, and the press flipped upside down from your photo so the threaded part is up. Cup or cups on the bottom and the pin doesn't need cut off because it can pass through the opposite end of the tool (on my OTC anyways).

LBJ install - you push up and in. I used the 2" pipe nipple on the bottom, and you need a thin cup on top. I didn't have a thin cup so I used some steel pins and a plate stacked like this .---. (but the pins are actually under the plate).
 
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Glad the hammer option worked. Which option worked best when you got it broken loose? I'm doing my axle next week and will need to remove the UBJ for the first time.

I used the hammer method on my LBJ and was very surprised how quickly and easily it came out.
I pulled mine off and used my shop press, but 2001LC has a technique posted on here somewhere to do it with a ball joint press.
 

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