Makes sense. Thanks for this
How did you remove the circlip on the LBJ? My new circlip pliers don’t seem to reach the wide ends of the circlip.
Lower Ball Joint Pro Tip
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Makes sense. Thanks for this
How did you remove the circlip on the LBJ? My new circlip pliers don’t seem to reach the wide ends of the circlip.
View attachment 2324765
Normal vice grips will work also.. just clamp the edge of the circlip and hammer off the other side.
Passenger UBJ done.
Since I don’t have a grinder to cut the shaft of the UBJ, this is what I did. I slowly aligned the tip of the c-clamp thread bolt to bind to the old UBJ, when it latched flat that’s when I knew it was aligned.
A bit sketchy at first but closely looking at the adapter making sure it remained flat, I kept on cranking until it popped.
For pressing the new UBJ. This is what I did:
I then pulled down the UCA since there is just no room for the inverted c-clamp to crank it using 1/2” breaker bar or ratchet. So I made a simple jig physics-inspired.
UBJ finally pressed in, secured and booted:
Since I don’t have a grinder to cut the shaft of the UBJ, this is what I did. I slowly aligned the tip of the c-clamp thread bolt to bind to the old UBJ, when it latched flat that’s when I knew it was aligned.
A bit sketchy at first but closely looking at the adapter making sure it remained flat, I kept on cranking until it popped.
For pressing the new UBJ. This is what I did:
I then pulled down the UCA since there is just no room for the inverted c-clamp to crank it using 1/2” breaker bar or ratchet. So I made a simple jig physics-inspired.
UBJ finally pressed in, secured and booted:
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Update:
LBJ now out, used this method (took me about 5mins to do):
Now I’m im trying to put in the new LBJ but again the length of this c-clamp press is not enough to fit in the pipe catcher and LBJ in one.
I was able to whack my way through using my 4lb sledgehammer to press it up the LCA but not enough to put in the new snap ring/retaining clip
Any other methods/ways you can suggest?
LBJ now out, used this method (took me about 5mins to do):
Now I’m im trying to put in the new LBJ but again the length of this c-clamp press is not enough to fit in the pipe catcher and LBJ in one.
I was able to whack my way through using my 4lb sledgehammer to press it up the LCA but not enough to put in the new snap ring/retaining clip
Any other methods/ways you can suggest?
Not saying this is for everybody. I removed the boot.
Then I used the press tool that came in the 46 piece kit that perfectly fits the inner rim on the LBJ, and gave it a smack with my 4bl hammer and it popped into place.
Installed the snap ring and then sprayed the LBJ and snap ring with a clear coat to keep rust away. Time will tell if it lasts.
Thanks @OwnerCS , followed a little bit of your method but didn’t remove the LCA anymore. I ended up with this another physics gravity-inspired style:
Used the jack as leverage at the bottom plus @RuskiE39 ’s pipe from O’Reilly, placed the 2.75” pipe from the bj kit on top of the LCA to clear the head of the LBJ, let the sledgehammer do it’s thing, and it worked!
Ta-da!
Mahalo everyone who helped with recommendations and hopefully the next mudder to do their BJs can use this thread in the future.
Cheers to a weekend of good ol’ wrenching.
Used the jack as leverage at the bottom plus @RuskiE39 ’s pipe from O’Reilly, placed the 2.75” pipe from the bj kit on top of the LCA to clear the head of the LBJ, let the sledgehammer do it’s thing, and it worked!
Ta-da!
Mahalo everyone who helped with recommendations and hopefully the next mudder to do their BJs can use this thread in the future.
Cheers to a weekend of good ol’ wrenching.
In the spirit of continuous learning and sharing, here is the final product:
Inner tie rods still intact and no real reason to replace was the main reason why it wasn’t performed.
Aligned the steering wheel thru the inner tie rods manually using this method:
Toe settings on both left and right front tires are spot on equally measured.
Camber @ -0.6° on both sides. I guess we’re good to go then.
Inner tie rods still intact and no real reason to replace was the main reason why it wasn’t performed.
Aligned the steering wheel thru the inner tie rods manually using this method:
Toe settings on both left and right front tires are spot on equally measured.
Camber @ -0.6° on both sides. I guess we’re good to go then.
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Not sure if someone's already pointed to this for you as I haven't reviewed the full thread. This sounds more like diff bushings.
Good luck with your repair, the ball joints from cruiser outfitters are a nice product and their service is top notch.
Thanks yes I agree, the quality of the Sankei 555 is two thumbs up. I am curious about the diff bushings to cause the steering not to track straight. It’s on my to-do list very soon though.
If there is a bad/worn out bushing, the rack will hold slightly. Will feel like the steering has a "memory". When they start to get worse the wheel will feel vague and the vehicle will track with imperfections in the road. It is a safety issue at that point.
You can test this by removing the front skid, set your camera to record and aim it at the steering rack. Move the rack back and forth. If when you review the video you see the rack move before the wheels begin to turn, you'll have your answer. A VERY small amount of movement prior to the wheels moving is acceptable as it's the rack needs to load tension onto the crossmember.
I did all 4 ball joints (and rebooted both CV's) last weekend and with the help of this thread it was a relatively straightforward job. Took the whole spindle off, using a Pitman arm puller to free the upper ball joints and a BFH for the lowers. I used the bigger ball joint kit of the 2 that my local Advance Auto had for loan, and it generally worked. I cut the studs off all the joints before pressing out. I may have been able to get by without doing that, but my grinder was handy. I ended up taking the boot off the lowers for pressing in, otherwise all the tubes were just a little too big to work properly. There was no need to remove either of the control arms, since I already had the spindle out for the CV work. Doing the first side took a while for figuring some things out, but side #2 took under an hour, not counting the CV reboot part. Thanks all!
Oh, and placed my first order with @cruiseroutfit for the ball joints and CV boot kits, and the whole experience was great!
Oh, and placed my first order with @cruiseroutfit for the ball joints and CV boot kits, and the whole experience was great!
Got you on that.
Yup you’re right the steering rack bushings are shot as the rack is moving laterally.
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These also look a lot like the wilde lock ring pliers that can be found on eBay. Made in USA and work very well (inexpensive too)I do all of my own work...so usually purchase good quality tools. IF you want Proto's then just google 'Proto 205g' and find the best price. But there are much less expensive pliers available that will do the same thing for you and makes more sense if you rarely use them. But here is a link for the Proto's:
Buy Locking Pliers - Sign In: Free Shipping $50+ | Zoro.com
Zoro Tools Industrial Supplieswww.zoro.com
Hi
I read up on the different LBJ threads earlier in the week, and I saw several people having issues with the AutoZone free ball joint press tool kit - basically saying the throat in the main C piece being too narrow to press the new LBJ back in
I got it to work
Here’s what I did
I used “E” and “F” collars
The smaller collar sits on the stepped adapter that nestles into the main piece - it’s other end presses on the LBJ rubber seal lip
The larger collar sits on top of the LCA
It’s true that the other stepped adapter is too thick to use on the screw end
So I used one of the Duane pieces for the rear axle seal press kit (next job on the to do list)
I also tried a 2” galvanized steel pipe close / nipple as others have suggested but found it would walk under load and cock the LBJ a bit crooked
Just putting it out there,
-e
I read up on the different LBJ threads earlier in the week, and I saw several people having issues with the AutoZone free ball joint press tool kit - basically saying the throat in the main C piece being too narrow to press the new LBJ back in
I got it to work
Here’s what I did
I used “E” and “F” collars
The smaller collar sits on the stepped adapter that nestles into the main piece - it’s other end presses on the LBJ rubber seal lip
The larger collar sits on top of the LCA
It’s true that the other stepped adapter is too thick to use on the screw end
So I used one of the Duane pieces for the rear axle seal press kit (next job on the to do list)
I also tried a 2” galvanized steel pipe close / nipple as others have suggested but found it would walk under load and cock the LBJ a bit crooked
Just putting it out there,
-e
I’ll add a little to this as well. There are few little things I do during install to make life a bit easier.
Any good repair starts with a liberal application of PB blaster to the upper and lower ball joint bolts, this should save you a lot of headache when trying to hammer on the knuckle to disconnect the control arms. To prep the control arms and everything for install I like to disconnect the caliper and hang it on the UCA with a clamp along with unbolting the brake line and abs brackets, followed by removing the CV from the knuckle and angling it rearwards to clear the LBJ area. Then I disconnect both control arms and hang the knuckle forward with straps. I do this because I’ve had a lot of issues in the past getting the tie rod ends out of the knuckle and it often involves a picklefork and airhammer when I run out of patience.
Circlip removal can be done with the proper tool or you can wedge a screwdriver under one side and hammer another screwdriver into it from the other side. Works a lot better if you got a buddy. Then take a hammer and whack the bj until it pops out.
For installing the new ball joint the oreilly rental press works pretty well. Also remove the boot beforehand to avoid damaging it during the process but make sure to keep it clean. Use the open end of the press and place the ball joint through it. It seats remarkably well and you can eliminate some of the annoyance working with the cups. Throw the largest cup on the topside of the UCA and press the joint in. Getting the new circlip on is most easily done by hammering it in from a slightly inboard position as it sits nicely in the control arm geometry and doesn’t rotate while you tap it in. Put the boot back on and throw a little extra grease in there if you like. Everything should go back on as it came off but the CV often takes some muscle to slide back in.
Any good repair starts with a liberal application of PB blaster to the upper and lower ball joint bolts, this should save you a lot of headache when trying to hammer on the knuckle to disconnect the control arms. To prep the control arms and everything for install I like to disconnect the caliper and hang it on the UCA with a clamp along with unbolting the brake line and abs brackets, followed by removing the CV from the knuckle and angling it rearwards to clear the LBJ area. Then I disconnect both control arms and hang the knuckle forward with straps. I do this because I’ve had a lot of issues in the past getting the tie rod ends out of the knuckle and it often involves a picklefork and airhammer when I run out of patience.
Circlip removal can be done with the proper tool or you can wedge a screwdriver under one side and hammer another screwdriver into it from the other side. Works a lot better if you got a buddy. Then take a hammer and whack the bj until it pops out.
For installing the new ball joint the oreilly rental press works pretty well. Also remove the boot beforehand to avoid damaging it during the process but make sure to keep it clean. Use the open end of the press and place the ball joint through it. It seats remarkably well and you can eliminate some of the annoyance working with the cups. Throw the largest cup on the topside of the UCA and press the joint in. Getting the new circlip on is most easily done by hammering it in from a slightly inboard position as it sits nicely in the control arm geometry and doesn’t rotate while you tap it in. Put the boot back on and throw a little extra grease in there if you like. Everything should go back on as it came off but the CV often takes some muscle to slide back in.
I agree. I have found that removing the boot gives flexibility in using the press tool when reinstalling. Its easy to reinstall and avoids the risk of damaging it during installation.
I urgently need to do LBJs & outer TREs (which I know are very well stuck together from breaking another puller whilst failing to separate), and then possibly LCA inner bushes at some point in future (not as critical).
I've got tool selection paralysis from all the recommendations onsite and online.
What full set or combination of press/puller and adapter cups am I best getting from the below? First attempt will likely be just TREs and LBJs with LCA staying on.... then if that fails....
I've got tool selection paralysis from all the recommendations onsite and online.
What full set or combination of press/puller and adapter cups am I best getting from the below? First attempt will likely be just TREs and LBJs with LCA staying on.... then if that fails....
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Parts stores in the islands don't loan tools?
lol, we barely get warranty returns. And on an island of population 4000 I am limited to say the least on shop/store options!
Any part or tool that comes in is US price, plus the US to BVI freight (air per lb, maritime per sq ft volume, plus wharfage), then plus 20% duty on the TOTAL cost of item PLUS the shipping.
Given shipping can usually be 50-100% or more of the tool cost, dependent on route, you can see how these jobs can get very pricy very quickly with a bad choice on the parts or tools! not to mention another 1 - 4 week wait for shipping to get here if you make a wrong choice and need to go again....
