Lower Ball Joint Pro Tip

[100d ua]

Hey everyone, just thought i'd share my experience replacing my lower BJ's. I ran into the typical problem most people do where the ball joint kits people rent don't have exactly the fitting they need.

Most of the threads I researched here started out in a typical panicky fashion asking for help and then never really posted their outcome.

I rented a kit from O'Reillys (basically an Advance Auto or Auto Zone) and the kit only came with 3 size options. Getting the ball joint out was no problem at all. Pressing it back in was a nightmare.

I quickly realized this basic kit wasn't going to do it and while I was out on my way to buy the Harbor Freight extended kit I stopped in at Advance Auto and they had this brilliant piece of kit below (O'reillys also had it, I believe most auto parts stores will carry it):

This piece of exhaust pipe was only $3 bucks and the perfect size to fit around the ball joint and does NOT need to be cut down to fit into the vice.

My recommendation is to use the rental kit provided fittings and press in the ball joint as much as you can and then send it home with this muffler piping.

Make sure that whatever you place at the other end of the muffler pipe covers the entire surface area of the pipe or it will start to bend and distort. Get (2) of these for security, on the second bushing mine started to bend but only because I had a skinny piece of steel seated under it not big enough to cover the whole area of the pipe.

 

[vman07]

wonderful tip, I'll be doing LBJ's in the near future. Did you remove LCA's just to do the ball joint, or other work in addition to ball joints? My understanding was that you did not need to remove control arms to change ball joints...

 

[100d ua]

GREAT question and something I’d like to touch on. You ABSOLUTELY need to remove the control arm to replace the lower BJ only.

My original plan was to pop the lower ball joint and swing the control arm down to replace but the stud end of the ball joint will NOT clear the housing hole. I spent probably an hour with the wife turning the wheel and shaking it to see if I could clear it and it was not happening.

Control arm must come off. It’s not difficult (unless you have rust) just remove the skid plate and 2 bolts and you’re there.

EDIT: I just realized you need to remove the torsion bars... I was installing my lift kit at the time and had the torsion bars out. So... unfortunately it will be a little bit more work.

EDIT 2.0: I was wrong, you do not need to completely remove the lower control arm to replace the lower ball joint.

 

[re_guderian]

GREAT question and something I’d like to touch on. You ABSOLUTELY need to remove the control arm to replace the lower BJ only.

My original plan was to pop the lower ball joint and swing the control arm down to replace but the stud end of the ball joint will NOT clear the housing hole. I spent probably an hour with the wife turning the wheel and shaking it to see if I could clear it and it was not happening.

Control arm must come off. It’s not difficult (unless you have rust) just remove the skid plate and 2 bolts and you’re there.

EDIT: I just realized you need to remove the torsion bars... I was installing my lift kit at the time and had the torsion bars out. So... unfortunately it will be a little bit more work.

Huh? Many on here have changed lower ball joints (including myself) with the lower control arm on the truck. Search is your friend.

Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions

I just replaced the LCA ball joints with some Triple 5's sourced through AutoZone sold as DuraLast. Since there was not a thread with pictures of the actual pressing in and out process I thought I throw something together along with the tricks and tools I used to make the actual pressing...

forum.ih8mud.com

It's even in the FAQ.

 

[re_guderian]

Hey everyone, just thought i'd share my experience replacing my lower BJ's. I ran into the typical problem most people do where the ball joint kits people rent don't have exactly the fitting they need.

Most of the threads I researched here started out in a typical panicky fashion asking for help and then never really posted their outcome.

I rented a kit from O'Reillys (basically an Advance Auto or Auto Zone) and the kit only came with 3 size options. Getting the ball joint out was no problem at all. Pressing it back in was a nightmare.

I quickly realized this basic kit wasn't going to do it and while I was out on my way to buy the Harbor Freight extended kit I stopped in at Advance Auto and they had this brilliant piece of kit below (O'reillys also had it, I believe most auto parts stores will carry it):

This piece of exhaust pipe was only $3 bucks and the perfect size to fit around the ball joint and does NOT need to be cut down to fit into the vice.

My recommendation is to use the rental kit provided fittings and press in the ball joint as much as you can and then send it home with this muffler piping.

Make sure that whatever you place at the other end of the muffler pipe covers the entire surface area of the pipe or it will start to bend and distort. Get (2) of these for security, on the second bushing mine started to bend but only because I had a skinny piece of steel seated under it not big enough to cover the whole area of the pipe.

Or you could get the Powerbuilt Kit 46 that has 23 different pieces all designed to withstand the stresses of pressing ball joints in and out from your local loan-a-tool auto parts store...

 

[jboylan]

I did both LBJs a week ago. You definitely do NOT need to remove the LCA from the vehicle if all you are doing is the ball joints. I did have to disconnect the UCA and steering arm however so you can get the axle/hub out of the way. I also did not need to use the C-clamp or similar style ball joint press to install/remove. Removal you can do with just a bfh on the top of the ball joint. Install can be the reverse with a nut to protect the threads. I'd recommend using just a little bit of heat on the control arm in combination with putting the new ball joints in the freezer for a bit while you start, this should help things go smoothly.

 

[100d ua]

Huh? Many on here have changed lower ball joints (including myself) with the lower control arm on the truck. Search is your friend.

Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions

I just replaced the LCA ball joints with some Triple 5's sourced through AutoZone sold as DuraLast. Since there was not a thread with pictures of the actual pressing in and out process I thought I throw something together along with the tricks and tools I used to make the actual pressing...

forum.ih8mud.com

It's even in the FAQ.

We’re talking two different methods here.

The reason I approached my LBJ the way I did was because the upper ball joint looked to be recently replaced by the PO and I didn’t want to damage it removing it with a pickle fork or hammer.

Since I was installing a lift kit and diff drop... I already had the torsion bars and skid plate out so I opted for removing (2) more bolts to get the control arm out.

The reason I say you CANNOT remove the LBJ without removing the control arm is because of the following:

Post #12

Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Well, it's my turn to replace the LBJ's and repack the wheel bearings. I searched and followed the instructions on Cruisermoms thread opting for the lower control arm method of being left on the truck. I got all parts and tools lined up. Rented the ball joint press from Autozone...

forum.ih8mud.com

Yes, you can absolutely remove the ball joints without removing the control arm, that way includes removing the brakes, hub and popping both ball joints. Hopefully that makes sense.

This is the way I was going to go originally, but I didn’t want to do additional work removing brakes if I was only 2 bolts away from the control arm method.

 

[re_guderian]

gotcha.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Sub’d. My steering isn’t tracking as straight as I want it to be, a bit loose and veers to the right even after alignment. PO maintenance record doesn’t show anything pertaining to an upper and/or lower ball joint replacement so I’m assuming this is still the factory one from 2006 along with the L&R tire rods.

Just sent an email to @cruiseroutfit for a set of upper and lower ball joints.

Will definitely get this pipe for the press-in install of the lowers.

 

[flintknapper]

Sub’d. My steering isn’t tracking as straight as I want it to be, a bit loose and veers to the right even after alignment. PO maintenance record doesn’t show anything pertaining to an upper and/or lower ball joint replacement so I’m assuming this is still the factory one from 2006 along with the L&R tire rods.

Just sent an email to @cruiseroutfit for a set of upper and lower ball joints.
View attachment 2317648
Will definitely get this pipe for the press-in install of the lowers.

^^^^^
That is the kit I got for mine.

The Circlips for the lowers BJ's (horseshoe looking ones) just tap in, but if you don't already have a pair of Circlip Pliers, you might consider getting some for the top BJ Circlips.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

^^^^^
That is the kit I got for mine.

The Circlips for the lowers BJ's (horseshoe looking ones) just tap in, but if you don't already have a pair of Circlip Pliers, you might consider getting some for the top BJ Circlips.

View attachment 2317701View attachment 2317703

Thanks how are the new ball joints working out for you and when did you replace them? I have one of those pliers already, I used this to remove a similar c-clip on the front hub when I worked on my front brakes a year ago. Do you think this will work?

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks how are the new ball joints working out for you and when did you replace them? I have one of those pliers already, I used this to remove a similar c-clip on the front hub when I worked on my front brakes a year ago. Do you think this will work?
View attachment 2317745

What you have are a pair of 'Snap Ring' pliers. That pair will do both internal and external Snap Rings, so it WILL move in the right direction. BUT....I think you'd find it an impossible 'balancing act' to use them on the Circlip for the upper ball joint. You might be able to pull it off...but you're a much better man than me if you do.

I realize you were able to remove the Circlip on your CV axle with them, but that was owing the fact that it is a much thicker clip than you'll be dealing with on the ball joint. I'll post some pics in a while to illustrate.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Sub’d. My steering isn’t tracking as straight as I want it to be, a bit loose and veers to the right even after alignment. PO maintenance record doesn’t show anything pertaining to an upper and/or lower ball joint replacement so I’m assuming this is still the factory one from 2006 along with the L&R tire rods.

Just sent an email to @cruiseroutfit for a set of upper and lower ball joints.
View attachment 2317648
Will definitely get this pipe for the press-in install of the lowers.

You can order online too!

Ball Joint - Fits 1998 - 2007 IFS 100/LX470 Series (SUS100BJKIT)

Toyota Land Cruiser Ball Joint

cruiserteq.com

 

[OEMGUY0720]

You can order online too!

Ball Joint - Fits 1998 - 2007 IFS 100/LX470 Series (SUS100BJKIT)

Toyota Land Cruiser Ball Joint

cruiserteq.com

Thanks for the link I just ordered now.

What you have are a pair of 'Snap Ring' pliers. That pair will do both internal and external Snap Rings, so it WILL move in the right direction. BUT....I think you'd find it an impossible 'balancing act' to use them on the Circlip for the upper ball joint. You might be able to pull it off...but you're a much better man than me if you do.

I realize you were able to remove the Circlip on your CV axle with them, but that was owing the fact that it is a much thicker clip than you'll be dealing with on the ball joint. I'll post some pics in a while to illustrate.

Awesome thanks! I’d probably just get one of those. Btw where did you get them?

 

[flintknapper]

Ball Joint Circlip is 'pointier'.

Ball Joint Clip much thinner:

'Possible to engage clip of CV Axle with posts of Snap Ring Pliers, but doubt it would happen on BJ clip (too thin).

Circlip Pliers designed to use on any style Circlip. Circlips with 'points' fit into dimple.

I tried to fit the BJ clip points into the set screw holes in my Snap Ring pliers..but the head of the pliers were simply too wide, otherwise you could probably use them to spread the circlip. Just easier with the right tool.

 

[flintknapper]

Awesome thanks! I’d probably just get one of those. Btw where did you get them?

I do all of my own work...so usually purchase good quality tools. IF you want Proto's then just google 'Proto 205g' and find the best price. But there are much less expensive pliers available that will do the same thing for you and makes more sense if you rarely use them. But here is a link for the Proto's:

Buy Locking Pliers - Sign In: Free Shipping $50+ | Zoro.com

Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies

www.zoro.com

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Thanks for the detailed pictures appreciate it!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks for the link I just ordered now.


Awesome thanks! I’d probably just get one of those. Btw where did you get them?

Thanks you!!!

 

[MJK]

I elected to replace UBJs, LBJs, repack bearings and replace sway bar drop link cushions via the methods described in the thread linked by @re_guderian above. @cruiseroutfit parts were awesome, as was the customer service. Here it is at maximum disassembly if it helps anyone visualize.

 

[flintknapper]

Sub’d. My steering isn’t tracking as straight as I want it to be, a bit loose and veers to the right even after alignment. PO maintenance record doesn’t show anything pertaining to an upper and/or lower ball joint replacement so I’m assuming this is still the factory one from 2006 along with the L&R tire rods.

Just sent an email to @cruiseroutfit for a set of upper and lower ball joints.
View attachment 2317648
Will definitely get this pipe for the press-in install of the lowers.

Smart of you to order the kit(s).

Cruiser Outfitters will send quality parts. The right parts and all the parts you will need. Your parts will come nicely packaged and IF you should ever have questions or concerns, their sales staff are knowledgeable. They get an A++++ rating from me.