Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut too high for the cotter pin

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Joined
Sep 20, 2018
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5
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64
Location
Utah
Anyone have an issue where the cotter pin is below the castle nut slots?

What did I do wrong? (Other than buying Moog instead of 555). Still, the ball joint fit and torqued to the insane 160 ft*lbs, well...I only got to 140 ft*lbs before I noticed the cotter pin doesn't fit.

Did I install something backwards?

IMG_20191008_193235453.jpg
 
Correction, the attachment bolts (the pair) is 160, the castle nut is 108. (which is what I did on the driver's side, the passenger I over torqued, I admit that). But the cotter pin is worse on the side at 108 ft*lbs.
 
Either the wrong end or someone or time wallowed out the taper in the spindle
 
Part number is k00017.

Can the lower ball joint attachment bracket be installed backwards? (the part with the two 160 ft*lb bolts)? I didn't think it could as it was a pain to align and seemed to go in one way. Maybe that could do it? I can't find a clear photo of the front suspension to see.
 
Yup, that's how my bracket looks, and looks like you have the same Moogs with the lo-profile boots. That's what I expected mine to look like. Thanks for the photo.

I'll contact Moog and see what they say.
 
Part number is k00017.

Can the lower ball joint attachment bracket be installed backwards? (the part with the two 160 ft*lb bolts)? I didn't think it could as it was a pain to align and seemed to go in one way. Maybe that could do it? I can't find a clear photo of the front suspension to see.
Did you mean K500017? Looks like that’s the part number online.
 
I've heard surprisingly good things with the 1A-Auto Lower Control Arms, so I just bought the set and I'll pull the moogs out. I wasn't too thrilled with the condition of my OEM arms (especially the bushings) when I pressed the Moogs, so I'm going to start with a clean slate. OEMs weren't in the budget, as the best price I found was about $650/shipped for a pair.
 

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