Loud tick after some shenanigans…

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I did just look up the history on Lexus.Driver’s website. I forgot you could do that. Seemed like normal intervals up to around 150k miles. Then never taken back to a Lexus dealer until I shipped mine down there for the seatbelt recall (putting in the wrong color 🙄) w/ 196k miles.

Spark plugs done at 143k according to that site.

And here are my most recent blackstone results…
35DD9B8C-B0E2-407F-BFD3-2124DF66343E.jpeg
 
I don't think oil brand matters so much as I was curious as to viscosity and whether the chain tensioner could be a culprit. In the cold, any viscosity will likely have more than adequate protection so I doubt it was that.

It's somewhat positive to hear the tick doesn't vary with load or starting so perhaps that could suggest it's less likely the bottom end.

Let us know what else you find.
Typically 5w30 oil.
 
Another possibility may be a stuck VVT solenoid. I've heard of this on i-force 3urfe's... some say an oil change can free them and remove the noise...I have not experienced this personally, but I'm throwing out another possibility.
 
I haven’t had much time to work on it but I did drain the oil, and it was clean. I ran a magnet through it and it didn’t pick up a thing either.

However, these two tiny pieces of plastic, or at least non-metallic items were in the bottom of the oil drain pan…
F0059488-D848-4C20-8B7C-B09C048EA970.webp


I’ll do a little more work over the weekend.
 
Was yours the OEM blue plastic-coated drain plug gasket? Or something else?
 
I did just look up the history on Lexus.Driver’s website. I forgot you could do that. Seemed like normal intervals up to around 150k miles. Then never taken back to a Lexus dealer until I shipped mine down there for the seatbelt recall (putting in the wrong color 🙄) w/ 196k miles.

Spark plugs done at 143k according to that site.

And here are my most recent blackstone results…
Your wear metals are really high, how many miles are on these samples? As a reference point, here's mine using a 3-5k interval. I think I started initially on Toyota 0w20 and have used M1 and Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra Platinum 5w30 on more recent changes.
LX UOA.webp
 
Your wear metals are really high, how many miles are on these samples? As a reference point, here's mine using a 3-5k interval. I think I started initially on Toyota 0w20 and have used M1 and Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra Platinum 5w30 on more recent changes.
View attachment 3211824
Those sample were taken with intervals between 5k-6600. I will try a shorter interval this next go and see how it looks. I am at about twice the miles of yours, if that makes a difference.

Here were the notes from that last sample.
87EFE355-0284-46A2-A69D-E3341540F83B.webp
 
I haven’t had much time to work on it but I did drain the oil, and it was clean. I ran a magnet through it and it didn’t pick up a thing either.

However, these two tiny pieces of plastic, or at least non-metallic items were in the bottom of the oil drain pan…
View attachment 3211722

I’ll do a little more work over the weekend.

I'm still scratching my head on these being flimsy plastic debris in the oil. Might be worthwhile to pull the oil pan if it's not too hard, to see if anything else can be found.

Part of me wants to say throw it back together into running condition, to isolate better where the noise is coming from. There's different paths to take if it's in the head, bottom end, or front chain / accessory drive. Might be tearing down more than you need to otherwise.
 
I'm still scratching my head on these being flimsy plastic debris in the oil. Might be worthwhile to pull the oil pan if it's not too hard, to see if anything else can be found.

Part of me wants to say throw it back together into running condition, to isolate better where the noise is coming from. There's different paths to take if it's in the head, bottom end, or front chain / accessory drive. Might be tearing down more than you need to otherwise.
I totally understand (I now own a mechanic’s stethoscope). And I was planning on that myself after seeing nothing under the passenger valve cover but my brother-in-law convinced me to just keep going toward the timing cover now. I’m pretty sure the valve covers would not have absolutely needed to come off. Oil and coolant are drained. I have a replacement radiator on the shelf here, so the old radiator will come out tonight.

I’m still leaning towards timing tensioner issue. Hopefully, it’s obvious when the cover comes off. I am enjoying understanding this motor much more as I dig in and I have the time, so not the worst thing to tackle.

Just need to go buy one of those short folding work platforms.
 
Thinking out loud, if there were an area to tear down, it still probably would be the
I totally understand (I now own a mechanic’s stethoscope). And I was planning on that myself after seeing nothing under the passenger valve cover but my brother-in-law convinced me to just keep going toward the timing cover now. I’m pretty sure the valve covers would not have absolutely needed to come off. Oil and coolant are drained. I have a replacement radiator on the shelf here, so the old radiator will come out tonight.

I’m still leaning towards timing tensioner issue. Hopefully, it’s obvious when the cover comes off. I am enjoying understanding this motor much more as I dig in and I have the time, so not the worst thing to tackle.

Just need to go buy one of those short folding work platforms.

I think you're headed in the right direction. There's a good chance it's there as the noise didn't change with load.
 
I haven’t had much time to work on it but I did drain the oil, and it was clean. I ran a magnet through it and it didn’t pick up a thing either.

However, these two tiny pieces of plastic, or at least non-metallic items were in the bottom of the oil drain pan…
View attachment 3211722

I’ll do a little more work over the weekend.


My guess would be the timing chain guide or spark plug tube gasket.
 
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My guess would be the timing chain guide or spark plug tube gasket.
I hadn’t heard about spark plug tube gaskets, and they were all in really dirty areas. What am I looking for with them? They do all still feel nice and pliable.

Edit: For some reason, when I read this, I was picturing the injector gaskets. I’ll be replacing the gaskets at the tops of the spark plug tubes if that’s what you’re referring to 👍🏼
 
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You'll find whatever you find, but a timing chain issue of any sort, whether tensioners, guides, or cam sprockets, would be very abnormal on the passenger side of the engine. Granted, this is a higher mileage unit, so it's plausible. My timing chain tensioner noise ceased with the slightest dab of throttle input, which mirrors Matt's experience on his '13 if I recall correctly.
 
You'll find whatever you find, but a timing chain issue of any sort, whether tensioners, guides, or cam sprockets, would be very abnormal on the passenger side of the engine. Granted, this is a higher mileage unit, so it's plausible. My timing chain tensioner noise ceased with the slightest dab of throttle input, which mirrors Matt's experience on his '13 if I recall correctly.
My experience with the noise was possibly the opposite, but yes, everything I read said driver’s side. I probably should have started there, but I’ll find it eventually.
 
My experience with the noise was possibly the opposite, but yes, everything I read said driver’s side. I probably should have started there, but I’ll find it eventually.

Meh, made your best guess, run with it! My only advice is if you start replacing stuff, do it all, but you're already at a point where you know that! Unfortunately, this also means replacing the cam sprockets/VVTi gears, which still might not be available for all four locations. The good news is that's the "only" expensive part, so it saves you money. Or something. Removing and resealing the timing chain cover is no one's idea of fun.
 
If you pull the timing cover, then you'd need to remove the valve covers anyway
 
With the amount of oil gel built up you may have something sticking or debri clogging an oil passage. IMO , I would put it back together and flush the motor. I’ve added 1 qt of diesel fuel with new oil and filter. Let it IDLE (do not drive it) for 30-40 minutes. Then change the oil and filter again and see if it helps. Really should be cleaned out either way.
 
With the amount of oil gel built up you may have something sticking or debri clogging an oil passage. IMO , I would put it back together and flush the motor. I’ve added 1 qt of diesel fuel with new oil and filter. Let it IDLE (do not drive it) for 30-40 minutes. Then change the oil and filter again and see if it helps. Really should be cleaned out either way.
Never heard of that process. I can tell you trying to clean just the underside of the one valve cover has been very tedious.
 
I hadn’t heard about spark plug tube gaskets, and they were all in really dirty areas. What am I looking for with them? They do all still feel nice and pliable.

Edit: For some reason, when I read this, I was picturing the injector gaskets. I’ll be replacing the gaskets at the tops of the spark plug tubes if that’s what you’re referring to 👍🏼

Spark plug tube gaskets... they attach to the valve cover. Just a guess.

spark-plug-oil-ring-gaskets.webp
 
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