Looking to buy a used LX. Advice needed.

[tincan45]

Hi Folks!

I've been lurking here ever since my wife bought a GX and I fell in love with it. After countless hours on forums like these, I'm considering selling my Tacoma and getting an LX. My budget is 30-40K which would get me a 2011-2013 LX fairly easily, but they all seem to come with a few miles. I'm a little hesitant about selling my 2018 Tacoma with 19K, but after driving a LX - I'm hooked.

I'm hoping I can get an idea of what to look for in a good used LX? I've become pretty good at looking up the service history on the Lexus owners site. This makes it fairly east to weed out the ones with bad service history. I'm more concerned with common issues like rear A/C coolant lines (for example) that seem to be an issue on this vintage.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Chocolate]

I'd say you're on the right track. Check the underside, smell the vehicle for mold/mildew, check the carfax, review the service records on drivers.lexus.com.

 

[Phalen302]

LX is a major upgrade from Taco in almost all respects. 13 or higher is the way to go. I have 15 LX, and no issues besides scheduled maintenance for last 80k miles. Still feels like new. Typical inspection would include chassis condition, suspension function, radiator, service history.

 

[tincan45]

LX is a major upgrade from Taco in almost all respects. 13 or higher is the way to go. I have 15 LX, and no issues besides scheduled maintenance for last 80k miles. Still feels like new. Typical inspection would include chassis condition, suspension function, radiator, service history.

Thanks @Phalen302! I know they made some cosmetic and tech changes in '13 (i.e no 2012). Were there any mechanical changes? Just curious.

 

[ElRob]

If you’re patient, you can find a low mileage LX fairly easily. I bought a 2010 last year with less than 50k on it. Check the Lexus dealerships as most Lexus customers, specifically the LX, are loyal and trade in.
Depending on where you are, rust may be an issue. I would check all bushings and low hangings spots as well as the knuckles and ball joints for leaks and tears.
Cycle the AHC a few times to make sure it’s working properly.
Depending on the miles you’ll want to consider water pump, belts, starter, etc.
Most LX’s live mundane lives, so the most wear you are likely to see is cosmetic.
I haven’t had any issues with AC. Front or rear. So I can’t comment there.

 

[DWSD]

I would not hesitate on mileage. As a Toyota person, you already know that. I bought a 2008 Tundra with 150k miles with the 5.7. I put new shocks on and it drives like new.
My 200 has 169k miles and it drives beautifully and almost looks new after a clay bar, polish and interior detail. It has been T dealer maintained every 30k. Seats wear very nicely, much nicer than my 100 series. I'd focus on condition more than mileage. Find one garaged from a dry location.
I just sold my 100 series after 15 years. It had 275k miles and ran like new, not burning any oil. But I maintained it religiously. It almost looked new except the early stages of failing clear coat on the roof. And after installing a new leather interior a few years ago.

I bought the 2008 for $22.5k. I'll probably have it 5 or 7 years and then swap to a newer one again.
Easily 500k mile rigs if you care for and maintain them.
My $0.02
Doug

 

[bloc]

I know it sounds odd when people say “don’t worry about mileage” when you are considering trading a vehicle under warranty in on something without.. but these things are the pinnacle of Toyota’s engineering ability for the mass market. Get under one and you’ll see how much heavier duty everything is. Not to mention how tight and rattle free the interior usually remains even with 200k miles on them. Sheer quality.

So yes.. don’t worry too much about mileage. Just budget for the typical 80-100k “smart owner” PM items like radiator, starter, water pump. Get those out of the way and have practically zero concerns until 200k.. then do the same stuff again.

Many consider it unacceptable that these need radiators so early but I contend that the few issues 200s have are always the same. You know what to expect and can easily plan for it.

Also I think your AC concerns are just bad timing. That doesn’t happen much but a few older threads have been bumped lately.

Paramount to me would be zero rust. Then carfax/owner history, maintenance, and inspection agreeing with the paperwork. Also look for the cam tower leak. Can be dealt with but it’s a lot of work and there will definitely be rigs that don’t need it.

Edit: also, the 2013 upgrades are no secret. There will be an accompanying bump in value, but IMO totally worth it.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Youre on the right track. Moved from a 2016 Tacoma to a 2014 LX and have had zero regrets. Fantastic vehicle all around.

 

[AnthonyLC]

I've become pretty good at looking up the service history on the Lexus owners site. This makes it fairly east to weed out the ones with bad service history.

One thing to note here. Also compare the carfax maintenance to the lexus maintenance. I was looking at one truck and was about to blow it off because maint dropped off of toyota owners site. The previous owner changed to a lube shop from the dealer. This all showed up on the carfax, but not on the toyota owners site. Happy buying!

 

[pizdets17]

have 125k on my 09 and zero issues. No radiator, starter, or whatever else. Everything works like new. Brakes and fluids and she is good to go, besides plugs every 120. Sometimes people replace needless stuff just because they think it might fail. A lot of the same people clean their guns so much that they actually break from cleaning lol. Anyway, check rust and maintenance and you are good!

 

[tincan45]

Thanks everyone!

Question about the Radiator etc. Is this something most of you change every 100-120K? This seems a little overly cautious assuming it's flushed at normal intervals. On a similar note, I don't know much about this transmission, but my wife's GX claims to be a "lifetime" fluid interval. It's pretty obvious it needs a fluid replacement every 60-90K depending on fluid temps. Curious if the LX is a similar situation?

 

[bloc]

Thanks everyone!

Question about the Radiator etc. Is this something most of you change every 100-120K? This seems a little overly cautious assuming it's flushed at normal intervals. On a similar note, I don't know much about this transmission, but my wife's GX claims to be a "lifetime" fluid interval. It's pretty obvious it needs a fluid replacement every 60-90K depending on fluid temps. Curious if the LX is a similar situation?

Lots of reading on the radiator issue here (note that original post was 08-10 but rigs as late as 15 have needed them): 2008-2010 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement

The good thing about the radiator is there is usually a visible crack forming to give plenty of warning, and it's right on top, so very easy/convenient to monitor. I say 100-120 because that seems to be an average of how far these go before the crack starts forming. Also note that toyota has improved the design and while a few of the old ones are out there in parts departments some users are getting the better top tank and it *shouldn't* have the same problem. I bought my 200 at 105k and the crack was visible. The dealer reduced the price by the cost of a new Rad and I installed it myself.

IIRC 200s recommend inspecting ATF every 30k, and replacing every 60k "while towing". @DirtNap put together a maintenance spreadsheet that should give you an idea what to expect: Maintenance Schedule Table - 200 series

 

[pizdets17]

like I said mine is 125k and radiator looks new. Trans fluid is drain and fill every 60k as per the manual

 

[bloc]

like I said mine is 125k and radiator looks new.

You are in the minority, possibly because your colder climate reduces stress on the tank.

I wouldn't go throwing a radiator at a truck that had no visible crack, but as I said in my first post here, I'd budget for one at 80-100k because they are needed so often.

 

[pizdets17]

I don't think its as big of an LX problem as it is a 200 problem

 

[bloc]

I don't think its as big of an LX problem as it is a 200 problem

A LX is a 200, and it uses the exact same radiator and engine as a LandCruiser, though many LXs get premium fuel which shouldn't impact cooling system in any way. LOTS of LX570s have had radiator failures if you've been paying attention to those threads.

My point stands. OP is looking at a used 200-series and it would be wise to plan for a radiator at some point.

 

[nwfl4runner]

rust. Avoid it like the plague. If you are buying, you get to be picky. Generally people who say rust isn’t a big deal have rust. And replace the radiator, there’s a new design and why fool with what keeps the engine happy? Bought my 2010 last year with 110k. 27k and rust free, spent the difference between that and a 2013 on mods to come out around even. That’s always an option too

 

[speyrod]

I bought my 09 LX with 152K after putting 259K on my 80 that got totaled by a tree during a wind storm. I paid a little more as I needed the end of year tax deduction. But I walked away from more than a few. I got the almost complete services history from Lexus, and no accidents in history and all body panel VINs match. I had the crack in the radiator and ordered a new one and water pump. They are sitting in my crawl space. I did the epoxy rad "patch" and will replace both when the water pump starts to weap. I have no signs of other issues and will replace the 20" wheels with RW's and 285 70 17's.

The only issues I had were the recirc door was off the pin, I had a trailer light fuse to replace and the console slider isn't functioning properely, I fixed the pin now I just need to get the correct spring.

For what I don't like, MPG which I knew walking in and it is better than my 80. Lack of storage, this IMO is painful not even room for jumper cables. I bought a lithium jump box (which reminds me I should check its charge). And finally that you need to be in N to place it in 4lo.

 

[tincan45]

So, in summary. Once I've got the service history nailed down and found a clean one, plan on replacing the radiator at or around 120K and watch for cracking. Water pump should be replaced too, but after owning several Lexus models, I can usually tell when those are going because they leak first. Rust is the other main issue...and I agree, there is no real cure for cancer. Rust won't be much of an issue here in the southern midwest. Dallas seems to be full of clean garage kept soccer Mom LX's. Same with the other major Metropolitan areas nearby. Not sure I want to go further north than Kansas City though.

I've decided to limit my search to 2013+ even though that makes the search a little more difficult in my price range. You all have convinced me it's probably worth the investment long term.

 

[tincan45]

Just an update. I drove a 2011 with 120K today and started looking at all the items discussed above. I pulled the engine bay plastic (missing half the clips so it was easy) and sure enough the radiator had the hairline crack front and center. I can only assume the water pump is on it's way out as well, but I couldn't get in far enough to see weeping or leaks. I also found the parking break would not hold on a slope.

I haven't ruled this one out, but it sure gives me some negotiating points and I definitely feel like a much more informed buyer.

Thanks all!