Looking for a 1FZ Long Block? New/Rebuilt

[BillyGoatMTB]

Any recommendations, where to order from if I choose to go for a complete short block?

I also found Cylinder Head - Toyota (11101-69107) @Onur would you agree this is the right part number for a head?

with not knowing the history of the engine I'm kind of leaning toward when the time comes go with a brand new factory Short block and I might as well throw a brand new head on there?

You guys hear any issues with the head I know for a fact from the PO the engine was overheated from a blown ohh in the california valley heat in August of 2017.

 

[APhelps]

Any recommendations, where to order from if I choose to go for a complete short block?

I also found Cylinder Head - Toyota (11101-69107) @Onur would you agree this is the right part number for a head?

with not knowing the history of the engine I'm kind of leaning toward when the time comes go with a brand new factory Short block and I might as well throw a brand new head on there?

You guys hear any issues with the head I know for a fact from the PO the engine was overheated from a blown ohh in the california valley heat in August of 2017.

I believe the head is just the casting and doesn't include the valve train. I could be wrong though.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

I believe the head is just the casting and doesn't include the valve train. I could be wrong though.

I believe your correct. My thoughts were move my cams over and valves depending on the machine shop I have do the work.

I'll have to price it out to get new cams and valves. I need to learn from MUD if using the old head is a good idea or better to go new on a new block.

 

[APhelps]

I believe your correct. My thoughts were move my cams over and valves depending on the machine shop I have do the work.

I'll have to price it out to get new cams and valves. I need to learn from MUD if using the old head is a good idea or better to go new on a new block.

I personally wouldn't waste my money on a new casting. From a performance world stand point most guys would fit new valves,springs, seats, buckets,shims to their old head after getting it re-worked.

 

[Greenbriar]

You won't know about the head until it's off. Have the machinist check it for flat. If it needs more than a few thousandths, it can be cut, but any cut will put the cam journals off from straight the same amount once the head is torqued on (and they're long on these heads, obviously). If it's warped too badly from the overheat, a fly cut might clean it up, but it may also cause your cams to bind once installed. There are a few old school guys around that know how to straighten them (bend them back so that all you need is a minimal cut to bring back to true) but that's never sat well with me... Mine needed a .012" cut to get it back to flat , and my cams were right on the edge of binding. If I had it to do over again, I would have gotten the new casting and swapped parts, then I wouldn't be worried about the cam bearings being the first thing to go in a brand new $7k motor. My $.02 anyway...

Edit to add: These don't actually have cam bearings (they ride directly on the AL of the head), so if they do bind and gall up, you're left with no good option other than putting a head on it...

 

[Greenbriar]

The other thing you can do to check it at home, if you're doing the disassembly: Strip the head completely (while off the motor), pulling the springs and valves etc., leaving nothing but the head. Lay each cam back in place with a drop or two of oil on the journals, without the caps. They should spin freely. If they drag, the head is warped too much (or you've got a bent cam, which is highly unlikely). The machine shop is going to cut the head flat in an un-torqued state (which is what you just checked), so any drag/binding you feel at this stage will be there when you get your "flat" head back from the shop...