I’m going to look at a low mileage 1998 Land Cruiser this weekend. I read the “What to look for” article by Slee, and will keep that in mind, but are there any specific items I should be focused on when I take it for a ride and look it over? Are there any cons to this model year? I know that it was the first year of the new body style and engine, does that mean they are prone to problems? Just looking to tap into the wealth of knowledge on this forum! Thanks for the help!!
Looking at buying 1998 - What should I look for?
- Thread starter mlavell
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consensus is toyota came out with a great truck off the bat, unlike some other manufactures who botch the first batch.
Oh boy, here we go...let the opinions fly! Kidding. First and foremost what is it going to be used for? Mostly on road, mostly off road, what type of off road, etc?
You will be happy with a 98 or 99(same truck). I enjoy mine very much. If the front seats leather stitching is comming apart, don't let that shy you away. It can prettty easily be removed and restitched for about $100. Otherwise Slee's info should have you covered. I am very happy i decided on a 98 instead of an 97 80series.
Look for body damage, i.e., paint overspray around lights, under hood, in door jams, etc.
But look at the windshield to see if it's been replaced, if it doesn't say TOYOTA, look for water stains up under the dash.
If it has a rear locker, take it for a test drive in a dirt lot and make sure it engages under 5 MPH and the light goes on solid. Same with the center diff lock.
Be sure to check the sunroof operation and see if there is a bunch of leaves/junk in the tracks.
Power antenna goes up and down and the mast is not bent.
Make sure that tool kit is there and everything to take the spare down is accounted for.
Turn the seat heaters on high and cook your buns.
Just keep knocking down the price for everything you see.
Everything can be repaired. If YOU like it, and if it feels right, drive it home.
Make sure the running boards fall off on the way home.
But look at the windshield to see if it's been replaced, if it doesn't say TOYOTA, look for water stains up under the dash.
If it has a rear locker, take it for a test drive in a dirt lot and make sure it engages under 5 MPH and the light goes on solid. Same with the center diff lock.
Be sure to check the sunroof operation and see if there is a bunch of leaves/junk in the tracks.
Power antenna goes up and down and the mast is not bent.
Make sure that tool kit is there and everything to take the spare down is accounted for.
Turn the seat heaters on high and cook your buns.
Just keep knocking down the price for everything you see.
Everything can be repaired. If YOU like it, and if it feels right, drive it home.
Make sure the running boards fall off on the way home.
A lot has been made about how the 2000+ are safer because of blah blah blah. Yes, they have extra equipment the help out a little. That does not mean the 98-99 is not safe by any means. I don't know of a single case where a 100 rolled because of a lack of A-Trac (or whatever they call it).
I agree that they made the most rugged and reliable right out of the gate which is a rarity amoung manufactures. If you read through the 100 series and pay attention you will notice (as I have) that the 98-99 models have very very very few issues with anything. Most of the issues that you will see are minor and most of the major issues you find are on the 2000+ models.
Not saying that the 2000+ are not reliable, but as a rule the more crap you load up on a rig the more issues you are going to have. Very very few issues with the AHC on the LX's from this period from stock rigs under 150k as opposed to the issues I see on the later models, esp the 03+.
I agree that they made the most rugged and reliable right out of the gate which is a rarity amoung manufactures. If you read through the 100 series and pay attention you will notice (as I have) that the 98-99 models have very very very few issues with anything. Most of the issues that you will see are minor and most of the major issues you find are on the 2000+ models.
Not saying that the 2000+ are not reliable, but as a rule the more crap you load up on a rig the more issues you are going to have. Very very few issues with the AHC on the LX's from this period from stock rigs under 150k as opposed to the issues I see on the later models, esp the 03+.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
If it's low enough mileage to be under 90k, I'd check to see if the timing belt has been replaced.
i've had my 98 for over a year now.. hasn't had any problems yet... just remember, 98 has no rear a/c
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It will be used mostly on road and as a trailer vehicle as i have ATV's that I use off road. . . That being said, I like to ski, and love to drive through a snow storm for fresh powder!!!
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- #10
Thanks for the advice Trunk Monkey! I didn't even think of that. The milage is under 90K, but does that mean I would still have to replace the belt or do i wait until i hit 90K to do it? How much does that typically cost?
I didn't replace my TB until 118K and even then it looked fine. Others have gone much longer but I wouldn't run the risk. I'm at 140K now and still on original water pump and starter with no signs of failure(knock on wood). Just the timing belt and serpentine replacement ran me about $425.00.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
The full 90k through a dealership is spendy. Most replace the water pump at the same time since the front end of the motor is open and it's right there. Figure $1,200.
i have a 98 and love it. I think the a-trac is a joke. If you know how to drive on ice and snow you don't need it. the slee guide will help you catch the beat up LCs. Good luck.
Yes, A-Trac can be a pain in the ass sometimes. Every time you hit some slick and a tire spins it goes -EEERRRR-CLINK CLUNK SHSHSHHSHSHSHZHSHSHSHH "beep beep beep beep beep".
Kinda wish I had a rear locker and be done with it. But it saved my ass once straightening the 100 out on a slide in heavy rain.
It's got many pros and cons...
The 2000+ has manifolds that can crack.
2000's (only this year??) have tranny issues. Only a slight number
Torque converter is faulty ( on a few also. Not alot are seen)
Hope that helps!
True. The LX's have it though. Soooo nice.
The 2000+ has manifolds that can crack.
2000's (only this year??) have tranny issues. Only a slight number
Torque converter is faulty ( on a few also. Not alot are seen)
1998-1999 Have the manifold issue too. Listen for ticking.
2000's (only this year??) have tranny issues. Only a slight number
Torque converter is faulty ( on a few also. Not alot are seen)
1998-1999 Have the manifold issue too. Listen for ticking.
really?? first i've heard of those years having a chronic issue with the manifolds
Do not buy one these trucks if it has been in an accident. 3/4 of Vol 1 of the FSM is dedicated to DTC codes. These trucks are very electronic, a good accident with a periodic short somewhere may drive you nuts for years.
Cracked manifolds are a problem, I have one and they want $1200 to fix it
90K service is another doozy - $1200 for that as well
You can do the quick math - "oh, it has a little exhaust leak and it due for the 90k" = $2,400 repair bill.
They are very good trucks and take your time - there is no rush, be selective!
Cracked manifolds are a problem, I have one and they want $1200 to fix it
90K service is another doozy - $1200 for that as well
You can do the quick math - "oh, it has a little exhaust leak and it due for the 90k" = $2,400 repair bill.
They are very good trucks and take your time - there is no rush, be selective!
