Looking at a GX470 today and it has Dash light on (picture included) (1 Viewer)

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May 11, 2018
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Location
Louisville, KY
I have been back on forth between a Land Cruiser/LX470 and a GX470 and found a nice GX470 with a good carfax maintenance history. I am going to look at it and test drive it today, I have included that picture of the dash with the check engine lights on. I know that the gas cap can cause this issues and will be in that first thing i check before the drive.

What else should I be looking for with these lights on?

I have read about the gas cap. I am going to have them run the codes for me too.


 
I'd recommend you have the ECU code(s) read to see what's throwing the code. On my V8 4Runner (basically the same engine), it had two codes that set off the check engine light and the VSC lights. One was a secondary air injection check valve stuck closed and the other was a catalytic converter efficiency code. It could be O2 sensors, which are relatively cheap, the catalytic converter definitely was not :-(

O'Reillys or Autozone will scan the codes for free and you can go from there.
 
Ok ran the codes and it’s the P1445 secondary air pump system switching. Gas cap didn’t seem to seal very well when locked in place. Engine was quiet and ran well.

Cons-
-cracked dash
-142k but did see the service decal for 87k timing belt and water pump
-mirror button didn’t work
-leather was a little worn on drivers side but not too bad
-dings and scratches
-when I turned hard to the right, it would scrub something, but not to the left
-I could tell there dog was a constant rider in the rear with the 3rd row removed
-battery was dead when I got there, started it and I could hear the secondary pump running under the intake for about 10-20 seconds. Now with that being said, when we were driving and I stopped at a light after about 5mins, I was unable to adjust the height even in park at a red light. When we got back to the dealership, I turned it off and back on, and was able to adjust it. Is this normal.

Questions-
-does the rear have rear heat or just air?
-What is the small lcd screen below the dome light toward the middle of the car? There was nothing there, didn’t know if there was supposed to be something there.
-it’s a 2005 and I think I can get it for $6800

What’s is the usaual suspect for that code and is that just the check engine code or related to all the lights?
 
Last edited:
Ok ran the codes and it’s the P1445 secondary air pump system switching. Gas cap didn’t seem to seal very well when locked in place. Engine was quiet and ran well.

Cons-
-cracked dash
-142k but did see the service decal for 87k timing belt and water pump
-mirror button didn’t work
-leather was a little worn on drivers side but not too bad
-dings and scratches
-when I turned hard to the right, it would scrub something, but not to the left
-I could tell there dog was a constant rider in the rear with the 3rd row removed
-battery was dead when I got there, started it and I could hear the secondary pump running under the intake for about 10-20 seconds. Now with that being said, when we were driving and I stopped at a light after about 5mins, I was unable to adjust the height even in park at a red light. When we got back to the dealership, I turned it off and back on, and was able to adjust it. Is this normal.

Questions-
-does the rear have rear heat or just air?
-What is the small lcd screen below the dome light toward the middle of the car? There was nothing there, didn’t know if there was supposed to be something there.
-it’s a 2005 and I think I can get it for $6800

What’s is the usaual suspect for that code and is that just the check engine code or related to all the lights?

That's the exact same code I had, and it was my secondary air injection switching valve 2, bank 2, stuck closed. It will trigger the check engine light and the other lights. It could be the vacuum switching valve on the PS of the intake manifold - if that fails, it won't send vacuum to the valve to open it. Mine VSV tested fine, and as long as I was in that far, I elected to switch out both valves, the diverter valve, the air pump and the starter while I had the intake manifold off. The switching valve is about $90 IIRC. I did all the work myself, and it took about 4 evenings working a few hours each night. We have 7 cars in our family, so I could take my sweet time. Radio, a few beers, wasn't so bad. The starter motor is a bear to change out - there is no slack in the wiring harness making it really difficult to get the big cable on and off. I have 200K on my rig so figured that I may as well change the starter motor. Murphy's law says that it would have crapped out as soon as I buttoned everything back up. The switching valves need to some out to get the starter out, so as long as I had them out, I put the new starter in.
 
Hewitt makes a nice bypass kit that clears the secondary air code.
 
Will the bypass kit get rid of all the lights? I think I read that they all come in when you get that code.
 
Will the bypass kit get rid of all the lights? I think I read that they all come in when you get that code.

Don’t know if you have other sources, but in general, Toyotas will light up all of those when the CEL come on. My understanding is that the computer trips all of the traction and stability controls since the source of the CEL can be so many different things. Its kind of a brute force protection for the system.
 
Don’t know if you have other sources, but in general, Toyotas will light up all of those when the CEL come on. My understanding is that the computer trips all of the traction and stability controls since the source of the CEL can be so many different things. Its kind of a brute force protection for the system.
Yep, any CEL will trip all the TRAC lights. That is normal.

It may be worth scanning to make sure you don't have something else in addition to the CEL (I had C1340/C1203 throwing all TRAC lights with no CEL).
 
Went ahead and pulled the trigger on this one and brought it home. Great service records and single family owned. I called the dealer and he said it needed a new battery. When I got in it to drive away the check engine light was off. So I went and got a new battery and when I pulled my key out of the ignition, all the interior light would go off and the key-less entry wouldn't work. Found that the fuse that handles that and some other stuff are on the same fuse as the side mirror that hangs and blows that fuse sometimes. Replaced the fuse and all dash lights are gone for now. Also freaked out a little when the windows weren’t rolling down thinking I bought a truck with electrical issues. I didn’t know you had to reset the windows after changing the battery. Anyone have luck with refinishing headlights, if what products did you use?

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Went ahead and pulled the trigger on this one and brought it home. Great service records and single family owned. I called the dealer and he said it needed a new battery. When I got in it to drive away the check engine light was off. So I went and got a new battery and when I pulled my key out of the ignition, all the interior light would go off and the key-less entry wouldn't work. Found that the fuse that handles that and some other stuff are on the same fuse as the side mirror that hangs and blows that fuse sometimes. Replaced the fuse and all dash lights are gone for now. Also freaked out a little when the windows weren’t rolling down thinking I bought a truck with electrical issues. I didn’t know you had to reset the windows after changing the battery. Anyone have luck with refinishing headlights, if what products did you use?

View attachment 1826804

You’ll probably need to reinitialize the sunroof, as well.

Glad to hear it was a pretty minor issue, and good luck with the new truck!
 
I actually like to leave the sunroof without resetting so that when I hold the unlock button on the fob all the windows go down but the sunroof stays closed.

That's a great idea.
 

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