Looking @ a 1991 Toy 4x4 pickup w/ 22RE - how durable?

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Cobra Jet

Cobra Jet

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I spotted a very nice, clean, rust free 1991 Toyota 4x4 5spd pick up and it has the 22RE engine.

How durable are the 22RE engines? Does the 22RE have a timing chain or a timing belt? Are there any known common mechanical issues or problems w/ the 22RE's?

How reliable is the 4x4 setup on these trucks? Is the front axle a straight axle, or is it a complicated set up like a 1991 Land Cruiser?

What else should I be looking for (besides the obvious like smoke, leaks, body damages, etc) when looking over the truck and/or engine/drivetrain?

Thx for any help/opinions!
:grinpimp:
 
You know that truck you were looking at? Forget about it, it's already been sold (probably)! They are that good.

'85 was the last year of the straight axles; '86 and up is IFS. Timing chain is the known issue; replace it before it breaks. The guide on one side wears the timing cover down and leads to problems as well.

How much for the truck? Reg cab?
 
Last edited:
2X, that engine won't give you any major problems for atleast another 100,000 miles. And there are many killer upgrades for the IFS system.
 
Cobra Jet said:
How durable are the 22RE engines? Does the 22RE have a timing chain or a timing belt? Are there any known common mechanical issues or problems w/ the 22RE's?

How reliable is the 4x4 setup on these trucks? Is the front axle a straight axle, or is it a complicated set up like a 1991 Land Cruiser?
Click to expand...



:confused::confused: A blind man that has never seen a 22re let alone drove one/ anyone will tell you what the 22re is.



The 80's set up is about as easy as one can get, stone age for coil spring.
 
All the hard-core Cruiser guys talk about how tough the F-series engines are (F, 2F, 3F-E, etc), but I submit that the 22RE is more durable and reliable. Proper maintenance is important, but they are amazing, and very simple to work on.

I read about people saying that the timing chain needs to be changed at 100K, but actually Toyota does not have a reommended change interval, and I have heard of people getting 400K out of the original timing set.

I have seen 22R engines running just fine with holes blown thru the side of the block. Seriously.

They tend to start leaking the head gasket at around 180K-200K miles, but it's easy to change (at least I think so). Put in ARP head studs and DOA Racings steel chain guides, and run the piss out of it. Just don't expect a lot of power.

Best way to maintain the IFS is to cut it off. My opinion, because you asked.
 
KLF said:
All the hard-core Cruiser guys talk about how tough the F-series engines are (F, 2F, 3F-E, etc), but I submit that the 22RE is more durable and reliable. Proper maintenance is important, but they are amazing, and very simple to work on.
...
Click to expand...

The facts are that the F series motors are even more of a conservative, simple design than the 20R series motors. Less HP per CC and lb, steel head on steel block, gear driven cam and overbuilt almost to the absurd. That said the 20R series are world class reliable motors, but if the test is pure ability to take abuse the F motors will smoke it.
 
My 89 4x4 had 255K went it went....and the ONLY reason it went was because the gf didnt pay attention to the blinking oil light. The guy I bought it from didnt do a damn thing on that truck since new. Only oil change and 2 air filters, THATS IT. When I got it with 230k, I changed the original plugs, filters, added Stop Leak (had a small drip), new brake fluid and master cylinder, gear-trans-axle fluids, and injector cleaner. The only thing I didnt change was the timing chain, which was slapping harder than Ike Turner. Ran strong till BOOM! Funny thing is, that even with a fist size hole in the block and no oil, it would start and run too...lol
 
5spd, 22re, no rust = a truck that might outlast you.

My 5spd 87 4Runner with 22re just turned 200k, on unrebuilt engine and original timing chain. She's got more power now than when I got her, and still gets 20 mpg with 31x10.50s. Only thing I've done is change the oil regularly.

If that truck doesn't have manual locking hubs, you might consider putting on a set of Warn hubs. (Or some used Aisins if you can find some cheap enough.) The Warns are under $200 and can be put on in an afternoon. I swapped my automatic locking hubs for Warns a few thousand miles ago, and I really like the knowledge that they're locked for sure. And that they stay locked in reverse, unlike the automatics.

You shouldn't have any trouble out of the IFS unless you really need tires bigger than 32" or want a whole lot of flex. There are solid axle conversion kits for $1000+ out there. Mine does everything I need it to in stock configuration.

That's what I know.
 
There's not a truck or 4runner I'd tell you not to buy, different versions have their issues, but every one of them has more good qualities than bad.

If it's a decent price, buy it!

And if it needs a hub swap, hold out for Aisins... (But I'm a purist!:D)
 
400,000 kms? Pfffffttt...

Odometer.jpg


That pic is from a friends '86 4Runner. He bought it (new) in Canada, so it was all in kms. This was a few months before he finally got rid of it (rust attacked the frame), so it had even more on it by then. Other than a timing chain at 100K, this engine was NEVER OPENED. Not even a valve adjustment. And, it still had the original factory clutch in it.

521,621 kms = 326,013 miles

Let's see a 2F do THAT.
 
KLF said:
...

521,621 kms = 326,013 miles

Let's see a 2F do THAT.
Click to expand...

My ‘73 F motor has just over 300k mi. At about 200k the freeze plug in the back of the head rusted out, so pulled the head to replace it, the only time it’s been apart. Most all of it's life I have had a DD, so a large percentage of it's miles are off road abuse. The 2F has much better oiling, so I see no reason that it wouldn’t run longer and there are well documented cases. Like the couple that are world touring in their 60, theirs has a ton of miles and most hauling a huge load in hostile environments.

http://www.weltrekordreise.ch/a_status.html

I built motors for a living for many years, running motors with a thrown rod is SOP, much easier than pushing them! The trick is keeping the rods connected, not throwing them in the first place.:D Anyone that has had both apart will attest to the F series being almost the definition of overbuilt, look at some of the specs. The long block weights what 700 lb, holds 2+ gallons of oil, 4 gallons of coolant, all components, rods, pistons, bearings, etc are huge when compared to the 20R parts.

It’s a moot argument, they are both great motors, I have worked on and driven many trouble free miles on both. In the ultimate strength class the F motor has the R motors beat, they are more closely related to tractor, industrial motors than car motors.
 
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